TargetTalk

10000 round service.

I have been shooting my CM84e for just over a year now and it have given me faultless service. The pistol has been regularly cleaned within the confines of the instruction manual but it is evident that dirt builds up on the breach face/block and under the breach block.

Is a simple and reliable instruction pack (preferably with picture or diagram) available for the removal of the breach block for cleaning? I would also be interested to see the same for the replacement of the firing pin should this be necessary and the tools necessary so that these are packed with spare pin. Murphy’s law will ensure that I need to know this whilst away at a competition!

I would not want to attempt further disassembly of this unit but the breach block in a “martini” action and the firing pin are both run of the mill items but not included in the otherwise fine user manual.

Paul,
Can you not ask Iqbal - isn't he a UK service agent ?

Rob.

Hello, Paul T.

Thank you for bringing up this interesting topic.

During this years Nordic Championships in Oslo, which had participants from Great Britain, Sweden, Denmark, Norway and Finland, there was one strange incident: During the junior male free pistol final the leader, a dane, firing a M84 E experienced misfires at his last two or three shots.

One coach of the British national teams inspected the pistol, and concluded that buildup of crud and residue from prolonged firing probably caused the malfunctions.

No, I have not experienced this very problem myself. I use the FP 10.

It’s a small world, the Nordics was my first outing with the free pistol and it was my Centre Fire coach that spotted this problem for the junior Danish shooter. This build-up is only natural and both the junior Danish shooter and I use the same ammunition brand that is prone to leave deposits at the breach.

For this reason, I am seeking this information for the breach removal for cleaning and firing pin swap-out. (The person mentioned by Rob is a Morini air pistol specialist).

Any notes/diagrams advise from Morini CM84 owners would be much appreciated.

amb,
Since no one has responded with information on removing the breech block from your CM84e, perhaps the instructions for doing that on a Morini CM80 will be of some assistance. As you intimated, the breech block and firing pin in a Martini action are probably "run of the mill" items. Since the CM80 is the predecessor of the CM84, it might be that the design of the breech block and firing pin was carried over into the CM84e.
From the CM80 instruction manual (with my comments in brackets):
DISASSEMBLY
Open fully the armament lever and bring it to a semi-closed position. (The armament lever is also called the Clamp Lever in the parts list and is the lever to open the action and cock the firing pin.) Unscrew the fastening screw on the grip and remove the firing mechanism. (Basically, remove the grip - which on the CM80 contains the firing mechanism or trigger assembly.) Remove the pin and remove the obturator. (The pin is the obturator pivot pin and the obturator is the breech block. The firing pin is retained within the breech block.)
ASSEMBLY
To assemble the obturator ensure that the firing pin is loaded. (Make sure the firing pin is cocked before pinning the breech block back into the frame.) To assemble the grip, introduce the sliding plate and stop it by bringing the armament lever in the fully-opened position. (The CM80 has a grip that pivots in the vertical plane to provide some adjustment in rake. So this latter instruction might not be quite applicable to the CM84e. Basically, put the grip back on the gun, having regard to the positioning of the armament lever/clamp lever/cocking lever relative to the cocking lug on the firing pin.)

So basically, it looks like you cock the firing pin, remove the grip in order to disassociate the firing mechanism from the firing pin, then drive out the breech block pivot pin and lift the breech block out of the frame. The position of the cocking lever is important, but if it is in the wrong position the breech block won't come out. Same with reassembly - the firing pin must be cocked and the cocking lever needs to be in the right position to permit the breech block to enter the frame.
Now it is entirely possible that the CM84e is totally unlike the CM80 in respect to breech block disassembly, but have a close look at your CM84e to see if there is enough similarity for the CM80 instructions to be helpful.
Hoping this is useful.
Regards,
Mike T.

Oops!
My preceding message should have been addressed to PautT.
Sorry about that.
Mike T.

Mike Taylor always does his very best to help folks and is very, very close to being "right on the money". I'll do my best to detail the disassembly/assembly steps in CM84 terms. I'll assume you have the owner's manual that came with the pistol. If not it's downloadable in .pdf format from the Morini website.

Breach Block Removal:
1) Remove electronics and grip
2) Remove complete trigger assembly by removing screw 084099 accessible throught he hole in trigger guard and by drifting out the rear-most small-diameter pin 084056. Now that you have the trigger assembly in your hand, use a soft-bristled brush to remove all the priming compound and other gritty stuff that ends up sitting on the top of the trigger assembly
3) Fully cycle the action to ensure mainspring is cocked.
4) Partially raise the cocking lever 084012 to ensure the breach block is not fully locked in the closed position.
5) Drive out the pin 084015 holding the breach block in position. Note that in the half dozen or so pistols I've taken apart they all seem to like to have the pin drifted out from left to right.
6) Drive pin 084015 holding the cocking lever out from left to right, but only about 1/2 - 1cm as it only needs to clear the thickness of the cocking lever.
7) Breach block and cocking lever should now be ready to be removed through the top of the receiver.

Breach Block Disassembly:
1) Place breach block with its face down against a block of hardwood and depress the sear lever, allowing the firing pin to move fully forward to strike the hardwood (better than a dry-fire which is about the only way you can break one of these firing pins, according to Francesco).
2) Close to the rear of the block you'll find a through-hole which passes through the mainspring retainer plug 084030. Take the smallest hex key that came with the pistol (the one for adjusting the trigger weight) and insert its longest arm completely through the through-hole in the block. This hex key will now retain the retainer plug, mainspring and firing pin as you proceed with disassembly.
3) Remove two Torx screws from tension block 084021 and remove tension block, being VERY CAREFUL not to lose the plunger 084019 and plunger spring 084020.
4) Use your thumb to apply heavy pressure to the mainspring retainer plug, relieving pressure on the hex key holding it in place. Remove the hex key and slowly allow the mainspring to push the retainer plug from its recess in the breach block.
5) Remove mainspring 084029 and firing pin, 084028.

Cleaning:
I won't get into specifics here, but I will caution that heavy accumulations of crud, gunk and other undesireable substances will be found in the channel in which the firing pin slides. A cotton swab soaked in solvent followed by a tight-fitting cotton cloth on a wooden dowel is what i use to get all this nonsense out of the hole. You'll also want to clean the firing pin hole in the breach face.

One other area needing attention is in and around the sear mechanism. The sear itself 084033 and its return spring 084034 will be well encrusted in dirt. A toothbrush and solvent work well to clean this area, but be careful not to snag the spring and yank it from its hole. It's small and hard to find on the floor! (Been there, done that!) Also note that both the sear and the sear trip lever 084032 are pinned into the breach block using pins riding in close-tolerance holes. Unless you need to replace the sear, don't even try to move these pins. They're TIGHT and only drift one way out of the breach block (they drift from right to left, or from the smooth side of the block to the side that is machined to allow the cocking lever to move).

Since you've got the pistol apart you'll also want to pay serious attention to de-gunking the extractor 084009 and its return spring 084010, as well as to cleaning the recess in the breach which accomodates the rim of the cartridge case. Build up of contaminants in this recess can lead to misfires.

Re-assembly:
Re-assembly is just the opposite of disassembly. Keep in mind that you won't be able to get it all put together unless you cock the mainspring first. I use a hardwood dowel to push on the firing pin; this methodology avoids leaving unsightly scratches on the metal.

If you need more details than this explanation offers, don't hesitate to post back here and I'll do my best to help out.


Mark.

Very many thanks to Mark and Mike for their posts. I have successfully cleaned the 84e with no hiccups or spare parts left over thanks to the additional comments from Mark. The reference numbers to the manual were spot on. I was stunned at the amount of build-up and can see why the young Danish shooter had severe difficulties! I will keep a copy of the note with my copy manual and I am sure other UK shooters will also benefit from this excellent protocol.

Regards
PaulT (UK)

Glad to hear you were able to perform the cleaning task without incident! The amount of dirt that builds up in a free pistol is truly amazing... In order to ensure reliability I probably go a bit overboard and do a full disassembly/cleaning at least once over 1000 rounds, but probably closer to once every 500 rounds. I learned the hard way the necessity of cleaning when my CM84 went bang at a very inopportune moment (ie while still on the bench with my trigger finger waaaay outside the trigger guard!). The little detent on the underside of the firing pin in which the sear engages is very, very small and mine had accumulated dirt which prevented the sear from fully engaging. Red face on the shooting line = lesson learned!