TargetTalk

All shooters have learned about "wobble zone." I continue to find this idea both interesting and troubling.

I find it interesting because I have found in my own techniques, methods to eliminate wobble from my shooting. I find the wobble concept troubling because it was often viewed as deterministic, separating out the natural shooter from those whose time is better spent in other pastimes.

A number of coaches have voiced the dictum, "you can’t shoot better than your wobble area." Some coaches believe training can improve wobble area. But, I’m afraid that many shooters, and some coaches, use this as an excuse for limited potential. In effect, wobble area defines a wall, beyond which, improved performance is unrealistic.

This concept runs counter to many shooters' experiences. We have all experienced those shots where anything felt right, and we were certain we had scored a "deep 10, even before we looked in the spotting scope. We often experience periods when a number of shots score better than our wobble zone. Unfortunately, most of us have difficulty maintaining this performance level over the long haul.

When I first started shooting, I quickly learned to put the wobble concept to rest. My shooting was not a distribution across wobble areas. Rather, when my technique was correct, I shot multiple "10's;" when it was not correct, I shot lesser scores, typically, much poorer than my wobble area, which is a bit better than a "9."

I then realized that my shooting technique removed wobble area from consideration.

This is my heresy. DEMONSTRATE IT TO YOURSELF. Imagine we are holding a pistol in an outstretched arm. Our sights are above the target; we drop the pistol down into the area of aim, and release the trigger. Demonstrate my point by taking a pencil in your outstretched arm. Hold it so the pencil point is your front sight. Using a wall as a back drop, let the pencil drop until it is in your "area of aim," and stop.

Note the following, which are true for any pistol shooter:

First, if you drop at a sufficient rate,, the line the pencil tip "draws" is quite straight, and much more narrow than the width of your wobble zone.

Second, when the pencil comes to a stop, it remains motionless for, perhaps a second, before the wobble begins.

I'm certainly not the discoverer of this technique. Some free pistols shooters have used a similar technique. They would let the pistol slowly fall through the target, releasing the shot as the area of aim is crossed.

Physiologically, this approach appears to have merit. Human motion involves muscle pairs. A muscle can only contract. An opposing muscle contracts to extend the first muscle. Coordination of muscle pairs are required to hold pistol sights on aim. The eye-brain-muscle process means muscles must take turns, trying to re-center the sights, as they move away from the desired area. This means holding pistol sights on a point is a difficult task.

Drawing a line is much more precise. As a pistol drops across the center of the target, on its way to the area of aim, the continuous motion requires fewer muscle instructions. The inertia of the arm-pistol combination helps keep the movement on track.

The key to good performance is bringing the downward motion to a stop, in a consistent manner, and releasing the shot before wobble begins.

Some shooters have discovered these techniques. They can be identified because they release their shot as soon as the sights enter the area of aim. Unfortunately, the potential for these techniques is not widely published. Most coaches and instructional manuals continue to teach only the "wobble zone" theory. Shooters who feel they are limited by their wobble zone should be encouraged to try these techniques.

I have seen the effect first hand, and it's true there is a "No wobble" method to shooting BUT it's also equally as difficult to master, thereby providing no great benefit to the shooter who can do neither or who has been trained one way and not the other.

When I used to shoot more "practical" pistol excercises- El presidente drills for example, I never stopped moving when firing, I was forced to time my shot to coincide with a release over the target area.

When practicing with paper targets my impact point when targets where overlayed was much more reproduceable in the ElPresidente drill than my ability to shoot centerfire bulleye via aiming and taking my time.

I would also assert that the "timing through the target" firing method rides a slightly finer line that the "hold the wobble" method. If you are "in the zone" in the" t^4" method, you are alright, if you are not, you may be WAY WAY off....shooting the 10 once and a 3 the next time. Shooting the wobble, you may score a lot of 9's but hopefully your wobble isn't so bad that you'll be outside a 5 or so.

One other example as I think of it, is in slow fire v, rapid fire to timed fire scores of many shooters. The timed fire or rapid fire scores are often HIGHER than the slow fire scores with many shooters as they don't have time to "think" of the target and instinct takes over. WHere as 10 minutes for 10 shots gives you LOTS of time to second guess your sight picture.

Reading your comments, you seem to be suggesting that the rapid fire techniques are similar to my ideas.

I agree. One thing I have been doing is to pause for a few seconds above the sight, to remove wobble and to set the sight alignment. I then drop down into the target area.

Currently, I have been increasing trigger pressure as I go down. But if I get delayed, I have to either stop or take a flyer. This because the trigger has its own timing.

I'm trying to change my technique to build a reliable rapid trigger pull, that doesn't represent a jerk. This is the technique that veteran bulleyse shooter Bill Blankenship championed. Of course he started using this technique when he was shooting a 1911 .45 with trigger pulls over 4 pounds. Sievers promotes this idea in "Successful Pistol Shooting." Blankenship's ideas can be found on the Bullseye web site.

Doesn't/Didn't the Marines teach this method of shooting ... it's not new ... I think like any technique ... if you practice it a lot ... you can "master" it.

For our relatively precision pistol shooting ... what do you use as your start centering mark ...

I use the Eastern Bloc type approach, as shown in the RWS pistol video.

I start with my aim at the top of the target. I take up first stage, center the sights, and let the wobble subside. This takes about three seconds. Then, I drop down to a sub-six hold, taking up the second stage as I go. When I arrive at area of aim, I just continue adding the pressure until it fires. If something doesn't look right, I abort.

Consistent movement, combined with increasing trigger pressure, makes it work.. But it is a complex coordination to perform under stress of competition.

I'm also experimenting with th Blankenship technique. I don't add pressure as I drop. When the area of aim is reached, I apply smooth, rapid pull throught the second stage.

The issue with this approach is "jerk." I find the pull has to be smooth, taking about half a second, during which the eye is actively following, and correcting for, sight alignment. This is distinct from a jerk, in which the sights look good, and a rapid trigger pull is made, without concern with changing sight picture.

I'm in the experimentation stage, trying to see which method is most promising.

Thanks for the feedback.

In 10M AP I do the following;

I line up and center the sights and slowly draw down across the target applying no pressure to the trigger at all.

I then line up loosely, take up the fist stage, then settle in at my sub six and draw through for the second stage. I know when I do it right because I am "surprized" when it goes off and most of the time those are my best shots.
I do have a bit of a problem with more drifing up and down v. wobble.

Do you align your sights before you drop down across the target face?

How long are you in the area of aim before your shot is fired? I also experience the up and down movement in my technique, but little wobble.

Interesting technique. Do you feel a need to modify this style, or do you feel it will take you up the scoring ladder?

I try and get them lined up just as I am setting up to draw across the target, so just above the black I am lined up with even bands of white on both sides and a fairly even "across the top" of the sight blade.

As I come down I lose a little of the alignment but recover it on applying pressure for the fisrt stage.

Typically I am about 3-6 sconds "on target" before I fire, longer and I get either a drift left or right or a drift up or down. One thing I have been trying is adjusting my sight picture through my sholder and not myarm. At first I waould move my arm to fix my sight picture now (lately) I have started using my shoulder to lift my arm up.
It has taken me from shooting a 50% to about a overall 85%-90% in the last three months of my shooting AP (having never really shot AP for serious consideration). I can see the things I am doing wrong, can feel them when they happen, know when I've just shot a very solid 10, so it's a matter of practice. I don't think I have spent enough time in the dicipline or with my method to change it yet. I worry that the shoulder thing is some bad thing to do but I can easily discard it if it is.

One thing I have come to realize, at first I was despondent if I was shooting 6/7's now I am a bit less frustrated if I shoot 8's but am hoping for a clean 9 target every time. It's become much easier to shoot mostly 9's some 10's and an 8 here and there than before, but I'm not really goign up in scores right now. I've sort of topped out at 535, 540, 544, that kind of score. It is my understanding that this is fairly common though, you quickly rise to your natural level, and it will take as long or even much longer to get past it. The way I figure it, it took me 3 months to get to 540, it will take me about 3-6 monthsMORE to get to 550, 6 to 12 months MORE to get 560 and who knows past that. Truthfully I really enjoy the pursuit and am not sure what would happen if I was "world class" as the adventure getting there seems much more compelling to me right now.

As a small side note: I was shooting about 300-500 rounds a day, to the point of nearly sidelining my self with an elbow problem. after I topped the 530 mark I slowed down a bit and practice a lot less but when I do I try and focus more. Even causally shooting I can get a 530 no problem now at all and I'm not sure what that all means but it's an interesting consideration that it took so much effort to get to a place, but it seems to take very little effort to stay there. I also wonder about records and world class athelets, like the 4 minute mile barrier, took so long to break it but then when it was broken, it was broken over and over again by many in short succession...the same holds true for me breaking my 530 goal...took a while to do it, now I can do it all the time...so it's time for another goal (550).
PS 530 was my goal orriginaly as it was the next round number up from 522, which was the NRA Distinguished Expert minimum 540 just happen to come with trying to shoot for 530.

Bob:

There are some problems with your precepts and assumptions about the "settle into your wobble area and release teh shot" description:

1. The distribution of position of aimpoint within your wobble area is not "Uniform Random;" you spend much more time over the ten ring than at the edges;
2. Your shot release is not "Uniform Random" either; you will (conscioulsy at first and then subconsciously) release the shot "lead time ahead" of where the shot needs to be released in order to strike a deep ten;
3. You don't need to time the release fot he shot while the gun is moving- just like you don't need to time the release of your bat when hitting a 90 mph fastball. Try hitting a fastball using a conscious "timing" method; or, for that matter, try hitting a deep ten using a conscious "timing" method and you won't be able to do it reliably.

The "timing during movement" method has been tried many times over the years by a large number of shooters- and abandoned. See erroneous assumptions 1-3 above.

OBTW- with proper technique, you will *always* "shoot inside your wobble area" by a very significant amount. Perhaps you misinterpreted what the "coaches" said- or maybe they were trying to make some other point. Or maybe they were wrong.

Steve Swartz

I am new to air pistol and have a simple question for steve. I agree with you that the wobble is not uniform in its randomness. If the wobble was uniform you would have an evenly spaced circular patttern if you overlayed all 60 shots in a match excluding those technique driven flyers. If you spend more time over the ten ring in a normal wobble by reducing the size of the wobble even a small amount would increase your score. What types of traning do you do to make the wobble reduce in size? What types of traning didn't work? When you decide that the 9 was from you wobble and not for a break in technique like trigger control or grip pressure change ect? Do you use any shot outside your standard grouping as a break in technique?

In Pilkington's Shooters' Omnibus is "Vital Problems of Pistol Shooting" by Anatoliy Piddubnyy. Look at the following quote:

"Vladimir Goncharov can keep the pistol in the 10 zone for 5-6 seconds; Mihail Nestruev has very brief windows of opportunity, of up to

one second,

but he takes full and effective advantage of that time. Thanks to his ability to "seize the ideal moment" he was voted World’s Best Shooter of 2001."

Reducing the size of your wobble area should be one of the last things you train for- and here's why.

I'm not saying having a smaller wobble area isn't an advantage, I'm just saying it's somewhat irrelevant (I know that sounds like a contradiction, but stick with me here).

Having a smaller wobble area will increase the relative percentage of time the muzzle covers the ten ring out of any individual shot process. That should, theoretically, make the shot delivery easier IF WE ASSUME that the timing of the release of the shot is a conscious decision. However, all you need is enough time to place the shot- maybe 5-7 milliseconds. If you hang the gun up there for 10 seconds, all you need is ONE 5-7 ms interval when you cover the ten ring- then break the shot at that time.

That much is simple, no?

The problem arises when you try to make the argument that it is easier to consciously steer the muzzle across the ten ring, and time the release of your shot accordingly vs. settle into the aiming area, accept your wobble, and let your subconscious mind time the shot for you.

The conscious method of timing has indeed been tried and espoused (then abandoned) by some shooters. The subconscious method seems to work (and here's the rub) "Every Time It's Tried."

You should work first on accepting the subconscious method for EVERY shot . . . by shooting thousands of shots this way (trust your settle and let it go), you will program your shot timing computer.

The bad news is (know why i say "bad?") your hold will improve without your working on it much at all as a side effect . . .

I was a no-talent guy shooting 520s for over a year before I finally pulled my head out and actually listened to what the top shooters were saying. Now I'm a no-talent 560 shooter (with occasional bursts into the 570s) with tendonitis, carpal tunnel, bad eyes, rotator cuff tears, lousy form, a 5-ring wobble, no patience, etc. etc. etc.

1) SHOOT UP TO YOUR POTENTIAL (subconscious shot timing method)
2) INCREASE YOUR POTENTIAL (training and evaluation/experimental design)
3) REPEAT (stick with it)

Steve Swartz

I agree with this approach and personally find it the only way I can shoot FP with consistency. Admittedly, as Bob says it is difficult under the stress of competition. Many of my friends call this concentraion technique ,the ZONE, and I have found that as I start each period with a new target it takes me a wee bit of time to get back into this zone. Maybe the concept of Zen meditation is not so far removed from this type of precision shooting. At age 73 I hear guys complain about being tired at the sixth target, but I generally feel very relaxed at this stage and do not make the mistakes as done in earlier targets. I know of several shooters who use meditation tapes before a match, maybe it's worth a try???

Bob, Bob, and All:

Hey, for what it's worth- meditation tapes, turn your feet out, turn your feet in, self hypnosis, grip high, grip low, fast lock time, slow lock time, 4.499 pellets, 4.500 pellets, eat a big breakfast, eat no breakfast, buy a new gun every season, shoot teh same gun for twenty years . . .

WHATEVER

Whatever it takes for you to be able to do "One Simple Thing:*"

1) Align the sights perfectly
2) Accept your settle
3) Subconsciously release teh shot without screwing up 1) or 2)

*Ok, maybe this is three things- but the best shooters in the USA have repeated this to me in various forms with various explanations and rationales etc. . . and the best shooters and coaches in the world have stated this in written and verbal form many times in many places (see Yur'Yev's physiological description if you need a "scientific" answer) . . .

But my favorite is the "USMC Definition:"

All you have to do is ONE thing, EVERY time: align the sights, settle into the aiming area, and release the shot without screwing it up.

Simple?

Yes.

Easy?

You decide . . .

Steve Swartz

Steve, I couldn't agree more. Ocaissionally, I think too much about my shooting and try something new and when I initially get decent results I am all fired up. However.....the results are usually from really paying attention for a while, not the variable that I am playing with at the moment. What it all comes back to is sight alignment and trigger release. If I do that, miracles happen, albeit breifly!! I am tempted to build a large sign in my shooting area that says one thing......"Watch the Sights". Maybe I'll do that before I try any more quick fixes!

David