TargetTalk

Older Steyr LP10E STEYR LP10e circuit board with a very hot surface mounted diode, Board gets hot after plugging into trigger group.
No trigger or led function.
Any help or information will help.
Does anyone know who can fix these boards, if possible?
I know someone in India does Morini boards, not sure if he does Steyr boards ?
Will message and see.

Vinod Rathore c/o Mohan Radios
372, oil mill colony, Gujarkheda
MHOW (453441)
STATE (M.P)
INDIA

What's up with that spring? That looks like it could unintentionally short something as it appears to touch the... uh... inductor?

best bet is to contact steyr and have the circuit delivered to them at an international match by a fellow shooter of yours for repair or exchange.
other option is to find a local circuit repair man that has smd repair equipment (smd rework station).
if i remember correctly from a post in fb the Indian repairman characterized all new circuits as j@*k and non repairable.
the older morini circuits have solder through components and so its easier to repair them (for example to change the capacitor)

The spring is to keep the excess connection wire out of the way when putting the grip back on so that it does not get trapped in the process and becomes crushed between the grip and the frame as you tighten the holding screw.

Maybe all the pin holes exist to convert to a mechanical trigger if a replacement can't be sourced.

It is part # 4008030514, if you decide to buy one. (position 76,1 in the linked image). I have also seen it listed as 4008030517, so be sure to check with the vendor you choose and compare serial numbers to see what fits what.

https://steyr-sport.com/de/downloads-lu ... mpact/file

You can get a replacement from here:

https://www.euroshooting.eu/en/index.ph ... 4008030514

Hope this helps

The same thing happened to me on the red version of the LP10E board, but not as bad as the one you have. Mine would come on but solenoid strike became weaker and weaker after a few shots as the faulty component got hotter until it would no longer fire.
It is actually a 100uF-16V low ESR Capacitor not a diode, I was able to source from RS Components in Australia. There were 2 caps the same size on the red version of the board so I had them both replaced at the same time by an electronics repair shop. These caps are polarised so the stripe on them must be placed in the same orientation as the faulty cap that is being removed. They said it was a bit fiddly due the the size and the lacquer they use to protect the board but were able to get it done and the board works fine.
In your case since there is no sign of life, other damage may have been done by the shorted capacitor. The 16 leg IC would be a prime candidate. It was also available from RS but can't remember the number off the top of my head. If you are replacing the board there are 3 versions, green (v1) is not interchangeable with red (v2) or blue (v3) without other mods.

This board ended up with me, happy to say it is working again. The local prices the owner said he was being quoted for a replacement board were crazy and importing a board from Europe has its risks (I have a parcel from Buinger missing for a month now, lost by Aus Post) so there was nothing to lose trying to repair. The repair shop I used to fix mine is no longer around so I invested in a cheap hot air rework station and after some practice on an old PC motherboard I had a go. You will notice the module has had some prior trauma with joins on 3 of the 4 wires going to the trigger. Only one of the two 100uF 16V caps measured bad but both were replaced as a precaution. Before anyone points it out, one of the caps is approximately 0.5mm off vertical, my OCD was over ruled by my fear of scorching the board or blowing some microscopic component into a parallel universe with the hot air….
All in all quite happy with the result.

video

Nice job! Someday you might hear from me when my Pardini SP1 needs new components.

Clint