TargetTalk

I have a Morini 162EI that started acting up. At first when the trigger was pulled it would fire a shot and the solenoid would click as if I had squeezed the trigger twice. Sometimes during dry firing it would shoot 2-4 shots with a single trigger pull.

It now will no longer fire at all when using the trigger

I’ve searched all the forums for this issue and completed the following steps:

Replaced batteries
Adjusted trigger weight and travel
Took out electronic module and cleaned contacts
Adjusted second stage travel
Removed micro switch and pressed the switch itself
Ensured switch was closing when pressed with a multimeter
Checked capacitor for 20v

Looking to see if anyone has any further info that I can try troubleshooting on my own

Cheers

Sounds like the micro switch is set too fine.
Check that the switch plate is tight to frame.
Have you checked the micro switch screw adjustment (0.8mm) on top of switch plate.
Make sure that you have about 80g weight on second stage, enough to re-set the trigger.
Back off switch screw 1 turn, then slowly turn the screw in until the trigger fires.
This the trigger point position, now back off the screw 1/8 turn and try trigger.

David M wrote: ↑Thu Dec 14, 2023 10:48 pm Sounds like the micro switch is set too fine.
Check that the switch plate is tight to frame.
Have you checked the micro switch screw adjustment (0.8mm) on top of switch plate.
Make sure that you have about 80g weight on second stage, enough to re-set the trigger.
Back off switch screw 1 turn, then slowly turn the screw in until the trigger fires.
This the trigger point position, now back off the screw 1/8 turn and try trigger.

Thanks for the reply and info David M!

I adjusted the micro switch as described and it still won’t fire, even when attempting the adjustment. Second stage weight is high enough to reset the trigger. Microswitch plate is tight to the frame. Even removing the Microswitch and manual pressing it doesn’t make it fire.

When the pistol gets wonky a new/repaired board is in order. Check with our host. Repaired boards are not expensive, at all. We keep a spare board in our kit.

With batterries out check the board for any obvious cracked solder joints especially near the capacitor. anso check that the micro switch is a working one.

One problem with the 162EI is that a fair amount of force can often be required to change the batteries, which can flex the board. We have some with Rink grips, and I've had to whittle the inner compartment so that you can get the board out without a scary amount of force. The spring clips that hold the batteries are pretty strong as well.

One thing that helps is to make a small loop of string that goes through both ends of the bottom battery holder so you have a "handle" to extract the board. It applies the force at the base of the battery holder. and doesn't flex things as much. If I get a chance, I'll take a picture of one when I'm coaching tonight.

Gwhite wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2023 9:45 am One problem with the 162EI is that a fair amount of force can often be required to change the batteries, which can flex the board. We have some with Rink grips, and I've had to whittle the inner compartment so that you can get the board out without a scary amount of force. The spring clips that hold the batteries are pretty strong as well.

One thing that helps is to make a small loop of string that goes through both ends of the bottom battery holder so you have a "handle" to extract the board. It applies the force at the base of the battery holder. and doesn't flex things as much. If I get a chance, I'll take a picture of one when I'm coaching tonight.

ghostrip wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2023 8:13 am With batterries out check the board for any obvious cracked solder joints especially near the capacitor. anso check that the micro switch is a working one.

m1963 wrote: ↑Fri Dec 15, 2023 7:52 am When the pistol gets wonky a new/repaired board is in order. Check with our host. Repaired boards are not expensive, at all. We keep a spare board in our kit.

Well I got it working again. I soaked the board in some vinegar and rinsed and dried I t thoroughly. I could see that there was lots of bubbling coming from the negative battery terminal solder joint. Upon further inspection it looks like battery acid had gotten down in it and missed upon clean up, and had eaten away at the solder joint creating a loose connection.
I pressed against it and it is firing correctly now.
Going to have to resolder the joint for a more permanent and reliable fix.

As per suggestions I’m definitely going to look at getting a backup board for the future.

Thank you all for the great help. It’s my first post on this forum and it’s great to know there’s a resource of knowledgeable people to reach out to!


Happy holidays!

I finally remembered to take pictures of the string board-extraction loop I have been putting on our Morinis. The college team I help coach has six 162EI's, and every time I work on one, I add the string if it doesn't have one. The string is just one from the repair tags we have lots of. It's about the right length, and is sturdy cotton twine. The loop goes over the bottom spring clips for the lower battery:

Gwhite wrote: ↑Sun Dec 17, 2023 8:52 pm I finally remembered to take pictures of the string board-extraction loop I have been putting on our Morinis. The college team I help coach has six 162EI's, and every time I work on one, I add the string if it doesn't have one. The string is just one from the repair tags we have lots of. It's about the right length, and is sturdy cotton twine. The loop goes over the bottom spring clips for the lower battery:

162E1 Extraction Loop wo Batteries.jpg

162E1 Extraction Loop w Batteries.jpg

Awesome, that’s definitely a nice and easy mod to do, thanks for that!

What a splendid simple addition to make getting that board out without doing other damage, it's going on my backup pistol today.
Putting it in vinegar - well I must look that up!

The chemicals in alkaline batteries are bases, so an acid (like vinegar) will help to neutralize it and prevent further corrosion. Although Morini does a good job of coating the board, I would never dunk an assembly like that. The vinegar could get into the switch, the big inductor, and the little shorting clips on pins near the bottom of the board. Soaking a cotton swab to clean just the affected area is a lot safer.

If you do have to dunk something, rinsing with distilled water followed by denatured alcohol and a gentle baking will (usually) get rid of even fluid that has gotten in to tiny spaces.

Here is a new question. One of our shooters found a way to bend the on/off switch so it no longer makes good contact. Anyone have an idea what switch to order, and solder back in place? Or, do you think soldering the existing one will work?

I took a quick look at mine (which is close to 25 years old), and it's a pretty odd part. It's smaller than most (8mm x 5 mm body, viewed from the top), with an all plastic housing and no threaded mounting sleeve. There is a stylized "S" followed by an "N" logo I've never seen before. You may have to email Morini to find out what it is & where to get one. Mine is also old enough that they may have changed parts/vendors since it was made.

There are two possibilities: 1) They damaged the switch internally, in which case solder won't fix it, or 2) they damaged to solder joint or the board traces, in which case soldering should work.

I'd get an Ohm meter with nice sharp probes, and check the switch pins directly (you may have to go in from the side, or chip off the conformal coating in that area) to see if the connection is intermittent inside the switch. If it is, the switch is a goner. It it's OK, a little more probing & gentle wiggling should help identify the bad connection on the board. I'm not sure how tough the coating is, and whether there is a risk if ripping the traces up along with the coating. The guy in India who repairs them may have a solvent that works, rather than mechanical means.

Good luck!

Thanks...the board with the switch problem is from 2019...
We have another board from 2009 that exhibits intermittent issues...
While the parts appear the same they are definitely marked different.

We may just send them both off for repair.

The label on my switch was put on the side facing the battery holders, so I couldn't read it very well. What I thought was an "N" is an "H".

SH is apparently Chinese (no big surprise). You can buy them direct off of eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/364026041609

I think the ones Morini uses have slightly shorter handles than the ones on eBay, but it's hard to tell.

Hey, that is great. Those look exactly correct. Thank you.