TargetTalk

standard pistol and RF 8-6-4 Olympic pistol shooting trigger setting on Pardini SP would the trigger settings be the same? if i were to shoot these two different disciplines.

If you are after the optimum trigger, no.
The trend for Rapid fire is short stroke single stage.
For 150’s a precision trigger, two stage break like glass is best.
For 20’s and 10’s a soft second stage roll-off is preferred.
Take your pick...

"For 20’s and 10’s a soft second stage roll-off is preferred."
If I zero the CP screw by turning clockwise while gun is cocked so that hammer drops ,how many 1/8 increments would it take antilock wise to get a good first stage trigger for a( 20’s and 10’s a soft second stage roll-off)

DO NOT adjust CP anywhere close to letting the hammer drop! That's not how it's supposed to work, and can be erratic & unsafe. If you are new to the Pardini SP trigger system, and don't understand how the trigger works, start by reading the document here:

viewtopic.php?p=321822#p321822

how much should I turn CP anticlockwise for it to have a good first stage

You typically don't adjust CP much, except to reduce the total first & second stage travel. The first & second stage are mostly controlled by PP, CS & PS. Until you understand that, you shouldn't be messing with your trigger. It's all spelled out in the notes I linked to.

Triggers are VERY personal. What you consider a "good first stage" may be very different from what works for other people.

thank you Gwhite and David M i have made numerous adjustments to my trigger in past and your notes helped alot.we shoot standard pistol at our range which is a challenge being it has 3 different stages of fire SlowFire,SustainedFire,RapidFire .but till this day I have not found a trigger setting that will give me good groups in slow fire and good groups in sustained fire and RF so I decided to play with the CP screw and try a lot of different variations by turning anticlockwise as far as 4 full turns from zero test at range and if I don't get results I want slowly turn CP clockwise until I get the trigger I am looking for .in the past I was able to shoot a match with a score of 561 with SK standard plus ammo with this pistol than I started playing around with trigger and have never gotten close to that score again.

You are never going to shoot well if you are constantly changing your equipment. Because sustained fire is 2/3rds of the match, adjust your trigger to work well for that, and then stop messing with your pistol, ammo, etc. Then, using the time you normally spend trying to find a magic trigger setting, dry fire a LOT, until the release in precision becomes automatic.

Shooting really well requires that you develop "muscle memory", so that executing a good shot is not a conscious activity. You can't develop muscle memory if your equipment is constantly in a state of flux.

gfrad1 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 13, 2023 7:12 am "For 20’s and 10’s a soft second stage roll-off is preferred."
If I zero the CP screw by turning clockwise while gun is cocked so that hammer drops ,how many 1/8 increments would it take antilock wise to get a good first stage trigger for a( 20’s and 10’s a soft second stage roll-off)

This is a very dangerous way of setting the sear engagement. It can result in accidental discharges and machine gunning, even damaged sears.
Screw CP sets the total sear travel for both first and second stage.
You need to set this to give about 3-4mm at centre of trigger shoe.
All the trigger feel is done with the second stage, screw CS for trigger point and PS for second stage weight.
For a soft feel I set the trigger point at 1/3 turn in from trigger break (this gives the required small second stage travel).
Then set the second stage weight to 180-220g (gives the light feel to let off whilst holding 800-850g first stage).
You have to be able to sit on first stage reliably and recover to this point quickly after each shot without shooting accidental shots
(happens if second stage travel is too short).
So the timed sequence is to lift holding at second stage, squeeze, recover, squeeze, recover, squeeze, recover, squeeze, recover,
squeeze, recover, unload.
To achieve a good feel you may need to change the second stage spring to a finer wire diameter/longer length as at these weights
the standard spring will only be just touching the ball and not in a good working range.

" If you are after the optimum trigger, no.
The trend for Rapid fire is short stroke single stage.
For 150’s a precision trigger, two stage break like glass is best.
For 20’s and 10’s a soft second stage roll-off is preferred.
Take your pick... "


Hi DavidM,
how do you set up for a short stroke single stage trigger for RFP ? Increasing screw PP to give 1000+ g and decreasing screw CS so there is no touching of the trigger nose onto the ball of CS. Also with the correct adjustment of screws PG , TS & CP ?
regards
Dean

dino911 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 21, 2023 3:21 amHi DavidM,
how do you set up for a short stroke single stage trigger for RFP ? Increasing screw PP to give 1000+ g and decreasing screw CS so there is no touching of the trigger nose onto the ball of CS. Also with the correct adjustment of screws PG , TS & CP ?
regards
Dean

Screw CP is the sear engagement amount (travel).
Too little engagement and you risk sear damage, accidental discharges, machine gunning or no engagement malfunctions.
Pardini do not list a minimum engagement but less than 1/3 turn and you are entering the danger area. (about 1-2mm trigger travel)
1/2 turn or more will give you a trigger travel or 2-4 mm.
If you try to set a very fine sear then you must use nearly all the weight that screw PP can give you as it is the only way to get any sear engagement weight.
Too little weight will only cause problems and poor setting.
CS and PS (second stage) has no effect on sear engagement weight, only on trigger weight.
But screw PP will not give you full competition trigger weight on its own, it needs help from PS (second stage).
The ball in CS has limited travel so you will have to set a second stage trigger point to use PS weight prior to let-off.
Ideally you could change the ball out and replace it with a longer " T " pin to allow second stage weight over full sear travel so it will feel as a
single stage short travel trigger, but this is a rebuild of the trigger (gunsmith job).
Its a pity they never fixed the problems with the electronic trigger.

thanks for the reply David !

In the Pardini instruction manual it says : " screw PP - gives a wide range of adjustment in the 1st stalle (stage) weight. Turning clockwise increases the weight to over 1360g and vice versa reduces the weight to less than 1000g ".. so basically this is not true...

Screw PP is a long screw with a hole in the end that the tail of the sear spring sits in.
Wound full in changes the angle to a point that the spring can some out of the hole.
Also I have seen a couple of older Pardinis that did not make the weight using that PP spring only.

Bear in mind with a pardini trigger the parts are quite soft.
If you don't have a lot of sear engagement and coat regularly with moly grease the hammer will wear and form a step, chances are it will do so anyway. If you then try to add more sear engagement you will feel the step.



If you have very little engagement the hammer and/or sear may wear and you can finish with a both parts rounded off.

I believe that SPs are set up by the factory with a fairly long sear engagement, the RFs with much less

(FYI In my experience what feels like a bad sear can be grit under the trigger bar.)