TargetTalk

Hi all. I have a set of Matchguns MG2 Evo and MG 4. These guns are appropriately called "MG," because they're like a finicky British roadster -lovely when they work, but fiddling with them is part of the bargain. I'm currently finding it impossible to set the second stage on my MG 2Evo for any weight between 850 g or so and 1,350 or so. My MG4 is set at a lovely 1,100 g and I'd like to get a similar setting here. However, any tiny movement of the inner screw for "release pressure" or "release force" (whatever it's called) jumps right over the values I mentioned. First stage is at 400 g, no problem there, and I increased overtravel in case I had it too tight. I wonder if I need to do something else first.

This You Tube video helped me out on the MG2evo trigger.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8t-aZfyx3A

Oh, that looks very promising; thanks! I had seen one other of his videos, but didn't know this one.

One issue I ran into is that the they used too much threadlocking compound on the inner (2nd stage force) screw on one of my MG2's. It was pretty much frozen in place. Every time I tried to move it, the hex key would slip and I was sure I had stripped the hex out. Once I got the outer screw out (which requires removing at least the trigger & possibly the primary release lever), what I found was that the inner hex was 3/4 full of thread locker. Once I chipped that out with a needle, I could get a hex key in far enough to turn the screw OK.

If you are trying to adjust the starting position of the second stage, the thread on the outer screw is moderately coarse, and it can be pretty touchy. It helps to put some sort of mark on the outer screw so you can see how much it moves. I use a fine tip silver paint marker to put a spot on the front end of the screw. The mark is also helpful to make sure the outer screw doesn't shift when you are adjusting the inner one.

Great advice; thanks!

Is the inner tiny hex screw 1mm? The 1.5mm the smallest hex key comes with the box seems a bit big for it.

Yeah I’m having the same issue adjusting the trigger weight. Either too much or too less even with a hair line crank. Lol

One problem I've run into is that they got threadlocker into the hex socket of the inner screw on one pistol. I couldn't get it to budge without slipping, and assumed the hex had stripped out. I removed the entire screw assembly, and once I chipped the threadlocker out of the inner screw socket, I could adjust it just fine. Removing the screw requires taking a number of trigger parts out first...

I'm not certain, but I think the inner screw takes a 1.3 mm hex key. If I get a chance, I will try to check that.

Thanks Mr GWhite. I’ll get a 1.3mm or something closer to try.

I did just verify that 1.3 mm fits. 1.5 mm is definitely too big.

Gwhite wrote: ↑Mon Oct 21, 2024 8:38 am I did just verify that 1.3 mm fits. 1.5 mm is definitely too big.

Great~ thanks

Gwhite wrote: ↑Sun Oct 20, 2024 1:13 pm One problem I've run into is that they got threadlocker into the hex socket of the inner screw on one pistol. I couldn't get it to budge without slipping, and assumed the hex had stripped out. I removed the entire screw assembly, and once I chipped the threadlocker out of the inner screw socket, I could adjust it just fine. Removing the screw requires taking a number of trigger parts out first...

I'm not certain, but I think the inner screw takes a 1.3 mm hex key. If I get a chance, I will try to check that.

OMG~ I think my inner screw is glued as well. when I turned the inner screw the outer screw turning as well.

So how many trigger parts will need to be removed?

At a minimum, the two small springs, and the primary release lever (#2044). However, in order to get the lever out that, I think you have to take out the trigger bar ("Pawl, #2031), which involves a pivot pin and a washer on either side, #2042 & 2041). There are some small parts involved in the disconnector mechanism that are attached to the trigger bar. You have to be careful with those (#2039 & #2040, plus a small spring, #2032).

It's all doable if you are mechanically inclined & used to working with small parts, but it's not trivial.

Seems like a big operation that I’ve never done on a pistol LOL. I’ll try to be careful.
Thanks v v much for the instruction with all the detailed parts number.

I should have some more detailed notes on the process. If you can wait a day or so, I can try to extract that info. I have almost 200 Mbytes of notes over the last 5 years of dealing with various MatchGuns, so it will take some digging...
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I found my notes, and extracted the relevant bits. See attachment.

Wow~ can’t thank you enough. that’s really good. I’ll read it through before I do the operation lol

Let me know which way your pins come out. I don't know if A) it doesn't matter, or B) I screwed up when I made my notes on one of the pistols.

Yeah will do.
I’ve also found a small threaded hole on the side of the outer screw that can see through the outer screw. So I’m thinking of putting a screw into that hole to stop the outer screw spinning when doing the inner screw. Not sure if it’s gonna work. But I’ll give it a try first.

I'm pretty sure there should be a locking screw, but you don't want to put just any set screw in there. That will chew up the threads of the outer screw, which will in turn chew up your frame. In my manual, they show parts #2108 & #2109. #2108 looks like a regular set screw, but #2109 looks like it could be a plastic or brass plug to protect the trigger adjust screw threads.

Okay I’ll be careful. Thanks.
I’ll try to find some nylon screw first. Is it M3?