TargetTalk

Has anyone found a good fix for the Pardini scope rings moving/slipping? I didn't think it was an issue with the .22, but I can't seem to keep them in place for more than 100 rounds. I contacted Pardini USA and was told to make sure the edges of the rings are sharp and to torque them to 11-14in lbs. I resharpened the edges and started by tightening to 11in lbs. Didn't hold at 11,14 or 17in lbs. I was afraid to go any higher as the Pardini rings are aluminum. I have heard that some are having good luck with the steel Warne CZ(front) rings. Has anyone tried this fix, and did it work ? Any other thoughts/ideas would be appreciated.

Some ideas
1) you could try using JB Weld. That was what worked for me on my AimPoint on my Pardini .32 ACP.

2) I wonder if you could use a chisel to crush the grove cut into the pistol directly in front/behind rings?

Note...I have never tried #2, that might just bugger up the appearance on the pistol.

Chip

An old machinist solution to slipping dovetails is to clean them with a good degreaser and use rosin powder on the mating parts.....

I'd try cleaning both surfaces with a degreasing solvent and apply a small amount of red loctite to the "knife" edges of the mount. If it doesn't work, at least it's reversible.

Wile E Coyote wrote:I'd try cleaning both surfaces with a degreasing solvent and apply a small amount of red loctite to the "knife" edges of the mount. If it doesn't work, at least it's reversible.

+1

Also understand that Loctite makes more products then just threadlocker. The make products for bonding of surfaces.

I have tried the degreaser and some blue loctite, but not the red. I'm leaning towards the Warne rings. I may call them and see if I can purchase just two front rings for the CZ 550 (19mm dovetail).

I recently bought a pair of Warne rings from Midway. They were about $50 whereas if you buy just the two front ones directly they charge you quite a bit extra. The one ring only needs a quick shaving from an end mill or even grinder would work. The material needed to be taken off is on the bottom and one side only, it can't be seen. So far the rings seem to grip fine but I have not had the time to put hundreds of rounds through my HP yet.

I used the Warne CZ rings for my Pardini, they work great. You can go one further and get the quick disconnect rings to take the dot off and use irons for CMP .22 Pistol Distinguished. I have an extra set laying around since I went with the Aimpoint Micro and Kodiak base. I will sell them, if you are interested PM me.

neal77 wrote:I have tried the degreaser and some blue loctite, but not the red. I'm leaning towards the Warne rings. I may call them and see if I can purchase just two front rings for the CZ 550 (19mm dovetail).

There were some for sale on bullseyeforum.net not long ago...might save a few bucks.

neal77 wrote:I have tried the degreaser and some blue loctite, but not the red.

What "degreaser" exactly? Loctite sells a primer which is the best prep from a chemical/molecular standpoint for activating the bond. Or, a good acetone, which is what I generally use.

I'd be pessimistic that threadlocker will keep the knife edges of the rings in place though. There's minimal surface area, and no real mechanical locking apart from the squeeze of the tension screws. If they won't hold dry, they probably won't hold with the tiny area the loctite will engage.

Warne steel rings and red loctite in threads. The rosin application is a wonderous idea. The compensator from Shooters Box would cancel more recoil too

I contacted Warne direct. Was sent a link to Kinney's shooting supply in NC. They stock Warne part #14BFM which is listed for a Montana rifle PH action. This has the two front CZ 550 30mm medium height rings. Cost was $54.95 . They are being shipped tomorrow. Will let you know how they work. Thanks for the response!

I just install my rings as far forward and as far rearward as possible so when tight they immediately rest on where the curve begins. You have to tighten slowly and constantly keep pressure so it is against the curve not not actually on it. I do this with all guns if possible.

I use these http://www.weaveroptics.com/rings_bases ... top_mount/
Part number 49030

You will need to file down one side so it comes to a knife edge. They hold and provide a very low mounting option for an ultra dot. They are wide so you get more surface area. Another option is using the shade tube you can add a 3rd ring increasing the surface area contact.

I recently purchased a ultradot HD-Micro. Its a tube type red dot. 28mm in diameter 3.25" long. Has it own tapered mounts. One mount is thinner than the other one. I used the thin one. Mounted to the rails my Pardini HP. Tightened the allen screw. Mounts looked like they fit nice in the rails. Tried to move foreward and backward. Felt secure, Put 80 rounds down the pipe. Still tight. No movement yet.