TargetTalk

I have a AP Morini 162EI, I have had it for more than 12 years. About two weeks it started having malfuntions. First I tought it was the battery but I have changed and the problem continues.

If I am shooting it will work but then maybe in the 20 th shot it will not shoot even when I am dry firing it. It will take some seconds without not moving anything and it will start shooting again. Then the malfunction will continue some times it will shoot and other times it will not shoot.

Has anybody had this same problems. Is it the electronic module?

Your help is aprreciated.

Hector

Call up our host Pilkguns.com at 1(931) 924-3400. They have worked on my Morini and I'm sure that they can fix yours. Maybe some contacts just need cleaning? Nevertheless, if you've never had it serviced, it could use a good going over and resealed, etc. after all of these years.

It sounds like the trigger/switch adjustment (hidden screw 162083).
Malfunctions happen with dirt, wear, age or just mount screw coming loose.
Strip, clean and reset the trigger and switch, clean circuit board and contacts.
Check solenoid and wiring for breaks or dry joints.
If you cannot do this yourself, send it in for a service.
At 12 yrs old it needs some TLC, clean, service and new seals.

On a somewhat related note:

What do the jumpers on the bottom of the electronic module do?

Thanks Misny and David.

I call the gunsmith of Pilkguns and he told me to send it to them for general maitainance and changing all the seals and some springs.

I have send the pistol to them, about 9 years ago, but I live in Mexico and is quite a challenge to send it and bringing it back.

There is a Morini distribuidator here in Mexico. I will check with him and decide to whom I will send it.

Saludos,

ehm,

I'm probably too late with an answer, but the one I played with would not let me shoot if the 2nd stage was too low, so I had to crank it back up to where it was before I lowered it. At certain levels it sometimes shoots, and sometimes it doesn't, then just add more, I believe it was the screw on the left.

SamEEE wrote:On a somewhat related note:

What do the jumpers on the bottom of the electronic module do?

One of them does nothing and you can shoot without it. Can't remember if it is the one at the extreme left or relight....it's the one which is followed by two empty pins.

I had the same problem as OP/Hector.
I went through Dave's edvice and found this ......


Weeks before I notice the gun wouldn't fire sometimes so I replaced the batteries.
Problem became more progressive and ended up not firing at all.
Think that it wasn't the batteries to begin with but the solder joint must have corroded with age.
Upon firing the solenoid plunger comes to rest/contact to the Green housing making a slight downward impact/vibration on the joint resting on the inside of.
The replacement of the batteries/circuit board push must have help weaken this solder joint to failure.
Notices the battery contacts had weaken also making for a loose connection even though I had a lighted LED confirmation.

A continuity tester is a must have to troubleshoot the trigger switch which is normally closed.
I resolder, bent than polished the battery contacts with a Dremel, reassemble and I'm good to go .........

Thanks for this forum and members that saved me more than once !!!

~ Greg

The most likely cause is fatigue/vibration on the wire on each firing, lots over the years.
There is little or support for the wires.
Good, fault found an fixed.

easy way to repair electronic modules
Before you use the Russian cosmonaut way of repairing the space station in Armageddon movie using a wrench I suggest you do this: (Especially for AAA battery models)

1. Check all cables for broken out connections or disconnects in cables
check if there are broken cables. Whether visible or not visible (inside the cable). You often experience broken cables inside when your headset is damaged
2. Clean the entire connection between the circuits using an oil-free electronic cleaner in the electric Module section with the trigger module or the other. Battery clamps (AAA models) must also be cleaned.
check the condition of the clamp contact slot between the trigger and the electronic module. Is it dirty (do cleaning) in humid conditions can be mold or crust sticking in this part. If it is loose. You can tighten it using a toothpick or clip by pushing the module to close again.
3. Make sure the foam padding on the iron lid is still strong enough to hold the module. If it is flat sometimes the module will shift down when you lift the gun (Model AAA load 2 battery strong enough to shift the module down) You can replace the new foam pad.
4. Make sure the battery you are installing is in good condition. It could be that the battery has been stored for a long time in a sealed shop but has reduced power. Try using a good quality rechargeable battery like Phillips Eneloop
5. After cleaning, remove the battery, insert the module into a container containing damp absorbent silica gel all day.
6. Reinstall and see if it works properly. If ok, I suggest removing the battery is complete, you use a gun or save for a long time.

If you still can't:

1. Check the micro switch whether it is still firmly or loosely installed. For your case it might not be a micro switch because it can shoot up to 20x then a problem arises
2. Check the pressure per stage 2 if too light
3. Check if the capacitor is damaged or not (bubbling / cracking the top) If you have a choice, buy a new module or replace the capacitor with a new one if it will save costs if it fails the module will be damaged lol


If I'm not mistaken, the module stores up to 24 volts to operate properly. Backup of electricity is stored in the capacitor. If you use a 2 unit AAA battery (1.5x2 = 3 volts) in poor conditions it might be a problem for 24V charging on the module. That's why I recommend using a rechargeable battery with good quality.

it could be that my analysis could be wrong. You try it. If you still can't use the Russian cosmonaut method above, lol.

Thanks Dave !
Another great reply post by Dave ...... on trigger micro switch adjustment.
Got my set to 1/4 turn CCW since my Morini has had many years (08/01/2003 from Don Nygord) to break in it was at 1/8 CCW.
But might tweak it after testing to see if it helps with lessening my group size. LOL

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=56476#p272680

Update:

I didn't like the feel @ 1/4 turn CCW and my average went down.
Readjusted to 1/8 CCW feels better for me with a quicker break time.
I don't recommend this setting if you're in competition which I'm not.

If in the future the gun will not fire I'll know what to check first .......... so far no failure to fire after some 200+ shots.

A good thread with lots of info guys !

~ Greg

All kinds of problems in morini circuit 162 and titanium.can be repaired please pm us.