TargetTalk

1. Starting at the ready position, is it better to raise your arm slow and smooth to the target and fire, or try to get the gun up as fast as possible to have an extra half second to aim?

2. Since the precision and duel stages are two completely different targets, assuming you use a 6 oclock hold on the slow fire, where do you hold for the duel. Do you try to hold below the ten ring or do you make a sight change then hold in middle?

thanks,

1) I believe in a rapid lift (but not so rapid it causes movement of your upper body/head), but about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way up to the target, start slowing down to coast into the target and stop with no overshoot. My goal is to subconsciously break the shot at the moment my sights arrive at the center of the target.

2) I use a deep sub 6 sight picture on the precision target, and center hold on the rapid target. I make a sight adjustment between stages. Another common method is center hold on both targets. Some people do as you suggest, holding off center on the rapid target. I don't recommend that method.

There is no single "best way", just a "best way for you".

For me it was a slow raise, with most of the trigger weight taken up at the ready position, ensuring good sight alignment so that the trigger broke "automatically" on arrival at the aiming area.

My aiming area was somewhere below the centre of the target. Being more specific would have required me to look at the target, so I just chose an area that felt right for me and was repeatable.

I've always been told the "lift & glide" approach is best for approaching the target in rapid. Come up ~ 3/4 of the way fast, and then slow down as you finalize your aim. If you come up too fast & too far, you tend to overshoot & bounce a bit, which wastes time.

I use a sub-six ("area") hold for precision, but a 6:00 hold for rapid. The low contrast of a center hold drove me nuts.

Gwhite wrote:I've always been told the "lift & glide" approach is best for approaching the target in rapid. Come up ~ 3/4 of the way fast, and then slow down as you finalize your aim. If you come up too fast & too far, you tend to overshoot & bounce a bit, which wastes time.

I use a sub-six ("area") hold for precision, but a 6:00 hold for rapid. The low contrast of a center hold drove me nuts.

I use a centre hold for rapid, seeing the shot holes appear when shooting wadcutters is too distracting. Also my cant is variable, and shooting a fixed sight highpower seemed to work so well I went over to shooting centre hold for duelling and rapid.

Centre hold for me means the centre of the foresight is in the centre of the target, trying to set the top edge of the foresight in the centre of the target is too fiddly.



One of the keys is to start squeezing the trigger before the sights arrive in the target, so you don't try to jerk the full trigger weight after the sight picture has been perfected.

dschaller wrote:1) I believe in a rapid lift (but not so rapid it causes movement of your upper body/head), but about 2/3 to 3/4 of the way up to the target, start slowing down to coast into the target and stop with no overshoot. My goal is to subconsciously break the shot at the moment my sights arrive at the center of the target.

2) I use a deep sub 6 sight picture on the precision target, and center hold on the rapid target. I make a sight adjustment between stages. Another common method is center hold on both targets. Some people do as you suggest, holding off center on the rapid target. I don't recommend that method.

I agree!

Also, I find it more beneficial to concentrate on the trigger control more than sight alignment. The sights just happen but if I don't concentrate on a steady trigger squeeze, things go horribly wrong.

This is, I believe, the pathway to eventually not thinking but performing the skill accurately every time. That technique, I understand, is the Holy Grail!

thanks, guys. I'll work on that in dryfirring.

David Levene wrote:There is no single "best way", just a "best way for you".

For me it was a slow raise, with most of the trigger weight taken up at the ready position, ensuring good sight alignment so that the trigger broke "automatically" on arrival at the aiming area.

My aiming area was somewhere below the centre of the target. Being more specific would have required me to look at the target, so I just chose an area that felt right for me and was repeatable.

Re-read David's advice! Every word is worth gold. That thecnique is so basic in CF rapid fire, that it will allow you to develop your on style!

This method will pay!
Good luck.

Guy

Two different styles are used for rapidfire stage.
Precision shooters tend to have a fast lift with a stop in the aim area and a (quick) precision shot.
Rapidfire shooters have a slower lift with a progressive squeeze and shot break entering aiming area.
Most club shooters have a jerky lift, look at the target and grab at the trigger pulling the shots all over.

You need at smooth steady lift, watching the sight from below the target and steering the sight into
the aiming area with a smooth trigger squeeze to shot break as you reach the aim area.
The aiming area being just below the centre white bars to the bottom of the 10 ring.
A smooth trigger release is a must.