TargetTalk

Can somebody point me in a direction of a thread, or document on a "inspection" checklist for a used 1911 "Bullseye gun"

Ill delete the thread is there is already a discussion, i could not find one in search.

I know to check for only a few things:
(please let me know if any are incorrect)

In battery:
-Barrel to bushing, should be no play at all
-Bushing to slide, no play
-barrel hood, should have no play downward or side to side.
-slide to frame: lateral play is ok, but vertical play, especially at rear is not ok.
-normal LTI should be satifactory.

Out of battery:
Check bushing to slide again
I have been told to remove the slide stop, insert it off frame (like pointing towards mag well, and cycle the gun. should not move around?

maybe bring long hammer and sear pins, check for straight drilled holes?
not sure how to check the bore/chamber

inspect for cracks on frame, link, lower lug...

i know i am missing alot...

any help would be awesome! thanks

Tony Brong covers this well : http://tonybrong.blogspot.com/2013/02/used-wadguns.html

I bought a used wadgun several months ago and after purchase found the hammer followed the slide, which wouldn't have been a big problem on a vintage wadgun except that the safety hook was just about gone from the Gold Cup style hammer. (I try to avoid excitement)

A second fault was that some previous owner had tried to drop in a Kart gunsmith fit barrel.

It took about $400 USD to get the pistol straightened out, and I probably should have walked away from it instead of purchasing it, but I have a weakness for the Colt Royal Blue finish and Bo-Mar ribs....

Check the function of the safeties. Drop the slide with the slide release and see if the hammer follows. When checking the slide to frame fit, make certain that the hammer is cocked. Knowing who built the gun (reputation) and the seller goes a long way. The only sure way to know if the pistol is to shoot it and test it on a machine rest. If the seller has machine rest tested the pistol at 50 yards and got a good group, that is a big plus.

Misny wrote:Check the function of the safeties. Drop the slide with the slide release and see if the hammer follows. When checking the slide to frame fit, make certain that the hammer is cocked. Knowing who built the gun (reputation) and the seller goes a long way. The only sure way to know if the pistol is to shoot it and test it on a machine rest. If the seller has machine rest tested the pistol at 50 yards and got a good group, that is a big plus.

Oh please don't drop the slide on a empty chamber, not good for the gun or trigger job, to test place a empty case in the chamber first , the brass cushions the drop same as it would when firing.

GunRunner wrote:

Misny wrote:Check the function of the safeties. Drop the slide with the slide release and see if the hammer follows. When checking the slide to frame fit, make certain that the hammer is cocked. Knowing who built the gun (reputation) and the seller goes a long way. The only sure way to know if the pistol is to shoot it and test it on a machine rest. If the seller has machine rest tested the pistol at 50 yards and got a good group, that is a big plus.

Oh please don't drop the slide on a empty chamber, not good for the gun or trigger job, to test place a empty case in the chamber first , the brass cushions the drop same as it would when firing.

Dropping the slide on a round or brass in the chamber is a great way to break an extractor. Having brass in the chamber does little to cushion the slide. The act of feeding a round from a magazine does in fact cushion the slide.

Dropping your slide continuously will eventually wreck a good trigger job by bouncing the hammer and sear together.

Dropping slide on empty chamber debunked (I still don't do it).

500 slide drops no issues video
http://www.defensivecarry.com/forum/def ... amber.html

- Dave



- Dave