TargetTalk

I read in another post about the barrel mounted rail from Larry's so you can keep the zeros? Anyone have one and how is it mounted and does it really hold zero.

Will this fit on the Bullseye version?

Could someone post a picture of this set up, both on the gun and when the barrel is removed.

Thanks,
- Dave

Dave,

My mentor had two barrels for his SP back in the 90's. One had the scope mount and the other irons. He said the scope mount held zero when it was removed and replaced. I plan to add the iron sight model as soon as Camp Perry is over. Most of the people that I have found who use it, don't really remove the dot to shoot with irons. But they say that the dot holds zero too.

It attaches to the screw in the front sight slot and another screw behind that. If your model is not drilled and tapped for the two screws that can be done at a modest cost.

jmdavis wrote:It attaches to the screw in the front sight slot and another screw behind that. If your model is not drilled and tapped for the two screws that can be done at a modest cost.

I haven't pulled the trigger on the Pardini 22/32acp yet. I have to get my Master card first (personal goal/reward). One of the concerns I have with the 22/32 is using the stock mount with one scope you have to keep track of the zero's, and the scope seems to not want to stay in place with the 32acp. That's why I'm asking about the barrel mounted rails and using 2 scopes.

Thanks,
- Dave

Dave;
Here is what you are looking for.
I had to go to this mount because no matter what I did, the rings crept forward.
I even used 3 rings. Zero wasn't a problem with the frame groove, no more than 7-10 clicks between the 22-32.
With Larry's mount, it makes the gun heavier, but I like it this way.
It's an expensive cure, needing 2 mounts and 2 scopes.
Plus you will need to have one hole drilled and tapped on each barrel mount.
I am using the Weaver Tactical Ring set.

Send me an email address for the photos, I cannot download it because they are too large.

Trooperjake wrote:Dave;.......
Send me an email address for the photos, I cannot download it because they are too large.

Thanks,
PM sent

I have a spare UD Micro I bought for a gun I sold and I use one on my Nelson so I have the scopes covered.

Photos sent,
If anyone else would like to see it, PM me an email address.

Being a Florida resident, I had the advantage of buying the pistol in person from the store in Tampa (Shooting Sports). I was told by the shop owners (but not the Chichkov's or Emil) that the scope would retain zero if the rings were mounted as far back as they would go. This makes sense as the groove in the frame is tapered at both ends. Hence, the ring base clamps should stop at the same spot if the scope is slid rearward until it stops before tightening screws. I have not tested this...

I experienced scope slippage with the 32 ACP using rings supplied by Pardini, including an extra ring on the front of the scope. The solution is steel Warne mounts for the 19mm dovetail (for the CZ 452; call Warne and ask for two rings that lack the recoil arresting tab). Mount the scope on the rings while they are on a flat table and make sure the scope is level. When you mount the rings on your pistol, slide the mount all the way to the rear in the frame groove and hand tighten torx screws. Note: these rings slightly higher than the rings supplied by Pardini, but not much.

I want to begin shooting the EIC matches, but just haven't tested the whether this really works or not. I hope it does as there is a club nearby that shoots international matches and I would like to take the scope off and shoot at those. If rearward attachment of the mounts enables retaining zero, quick detaching scope rings would be of interest and certainly cheaper than buying two scopes and two scope bases, and getting your barrel shrouds tapped. Cheers, dipnet

The LGI part mounts to the barrel shroud. So, when you break it down to clean, the rail and optic remain attached to the barrel. I have used this for two seasons and it hled perfect zero after breakdown. In the picture, you will see that I also modified mine. I wanted my red dot to be very low so I had the rail milled down and my Aimpoint bolted right to it underneath. For use with Ultrdadot you'd leave the rail stock and use some low profile rings. This particular style of mount is nice if you want to use the gun as a conversion 32. You can leave a red dot mounted to each barrel and be assured zero is always correct. I have two, one on the 22 barrel and the other on my 32acp barrel. I can switch them over in a minute and be shooting right away and know the zero is exactly the same as last time.

I have my HP with the same set up as Murph but kept the mounts stock. I have no problems changing from 32 to 22 and having to worry about what the zero should be especially when factoring in what the settings need to be for 50 yards or 25 yards or 50 feet. Before doing this I worried when ever I changed from one caliper to another if it will shoot where I'm pointing it. I also could never stop the scope from moving on the 32acp set up.

Call Warne precision (scope rings) and let them know you want rings for a Pardini pistol. You will get two front rings for a CZ550 rifle which has the same 19mm European dovetail as is milled on top of the Pardini reciever. Go one step further and get the quick detachable version so you can use that same gun for the .22 EIC match too.

That's what I have done, it returns to zero and works great.

Is there some guidance of what to torque the mounts to? Seems I remember something about inch pounds but can't remember where I heard it. Also, do stock pardini rings work? Got a full .32 and .22 setup in the waiting period to pick up saturday.

Warne sells a torque wrench to use with their rings; it is pre-set to the recommended torque of 25 inch-pounds, e.g., http://warnescopemounts.com/product/tw1 ... ue-wrench/. dipnet

Didn't have a lot of time at the range so I only shot about 20 rounds of .22 and 20 of .32 after learning how to switch the barrels. Got home and was looking at the pistol and decided to check the rings because it looked like the front one moved. Lo and behold every bolt was loose. I don't have a torque wrench but I had snugged everything. But every bolt on the mounts were loose! Using the rings Pardini provided.

With vertical split rings you have to tighten the bottom screws all the way first. Leave the top screws out while doing this. When the bottom screws are tight then install and tighten the top screws.

On a Pardini the milled rail on the reciever has a radius cut on the ends. Keep your mounts away from the very ends and off the radius.

Hope that helps.

I wasn't clear on what rings I have. They are not split vertically. They are like this except they have one screw to tighten on the rail instead of two like the ones in the picture:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/136212 ... uctFinding

The bottom has been milled off.

When messin' with them last night I noticed that the cocking handles may even touch the scope rings when cycling. There is almost zero distance between the two. Yeow!

Pardini SPBE shooters:
I was told when I bought the pistol that if I mounted the rings as far back as they could go in the frame groove, I could remove and remount the scope and it would retain zero. This is the first time I've ever tried it and viola, it works!

If you don't have your scope rings mounted in this manner, I suspect you could loosen the rings and slide the scope back until the rear rings stops and re-tighten ring screws. There should be relatively little change in point of impact, BUT check it before the next match.

So, if you want to shoot the EIC 22 match, you can do it with your Pardini. Ciao bang, dipnet