TargetTalk

I picked up a used 1813 and there are no tension springs in the trigger and I'm having trouble locating some. If I decide to update the trigger assembly, are there any tricks or things to watch for when changing trigger assemblies on an 1813? It currently has the 5018 trigger.

Thanks

Suggest you contact Neal Stepp at International Shooters Service (Fort Worth, TX) about parts, (817) 595-2090

The 5018 trigger fitted to 1813, 1807, 1913, 1907, and 2013/07 rifles is quite simple to remove and refit. It's held on with two bolts. There is a knack to fitting the trigger, becasue the bolts pass through slots in the trigger frame, so there is a little fore-aft play. This play is deliberate and allows the sear to be timed with the firing pin.

Remove the bolt, and loosely bolt the trigger onto the action. Reinsert the bolt and close it, look at the indicator pin at the rearv as it closes. You want the pin to not move as the bolt closes; this means the trigger is perfectly positioned to take the firing pin as it leaves the cocking cam. If the pin jumps back, the trigger is too far back. If the pin jumps in, the trigger is too far forwards. Niether is ideal; having the trigger too far back makes the bolt harder to close, and the firing pin may hit too hard (setting up extra vibration in the barrel). If the trigger is too far forwards, the firing pin spring may not get enough Oomph so you get inconsistent ignition or light strikes.

It sounds complicated, but doesn't take long in practise.