IZH 46m action block spring

seamaster · Post by **seamaster** » Tue Apr 15, 2014 7:36 am

Shooting yesterday, could not close the action block. I found a very small (really small coil) broken spring in the closing block hatch.

I look up http://my.tbaytel.net/coopers/BaikalIZH46MReview/

I think it might be part #59 spring

I can't make head and tail out of this diagram, where is #59 located?

If this spring is not #59, what other likely spring is it, and where I can find its originating position?

Gwhite · Post by **Gwhite** » Tue Apr 15, 2014 7:58 am

#59 goes between the large breech block lever and the smaller arm with the seals. There is a small pocket in both pieces that the spring fits into, and sometimes the spring can escape.

I've never succeeded in replacing the spring without taking things all the way apart. The cross pin that holds the two breech block pieces together is staked in place, and it can be a pain in the neck to reassemble unless you make up a dummy pin from a slightly undersized drill shank to hold things together. The same goes for reassembling the breech lever into the action.

I have detailed notes on a lot of this, but they aren't quite in a form that I can download. I can work on that this evening and try to post them.

seamaster · Post by **seamaster** » Tue Apr 15, 2014 8:17 am

Very much obliged.

Thank you in advance.

Gwhite · Post by **Gwhite** » Tue Apr 15, 2014 5:06 pm

Here's my write up. It covers assembly & disassembly of the pistol far enough to get the breech lever assembly out, and then the steps required to replace the spring.

seamaster · Post by **seamaster** » Tue Apr 15, 2014 10:55 pm

Thank you for posting the detail instruction on replacing the breech block spring.

Do you by chance have drawings on how to replace the O ring and the small piston valve cap? Can't find much information on how to replace those two.

http://www.amazon.com/IZH-46M-Seal-O-Ri ... B001BR6M0S

Gwhite · Post by **Gwhite** » Wed Apr 16, 2014 7:48 am

There is a really excellent tutorial on the piston seal procedure here:

http://airgunenthusiast.weebly.com/uplo ... deshow.exe

The firing seal is trickier. I have been told how to do it from the back, but it requires making a special tool (simple lathe job). I haven't gotten around to that, but I have an IZH waiting for a new seal. The plan is to do that over the summer, and to fully document the process. You can do it from the front, but it's a lot more work, and requires removing & reinstalling the compression cylinder tube.

Most of the time, the firing seal just needs some oil. I use air tool oil from the hardware store, and put a drop down the firing port in the top of the action. Let it sit with barrel pointed down overnight so the oil can work it's way down to the seal & valve.

Here's a discussion of valve issues:

viewtopic.php?t=42509

seamaster · Post by **seamaster** » Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:38 am

Where does that large O ring in the replacement seal kit go?

On the diagram, it is located at the bottom of cylinder tube? I could not remove the cylinder tube at all. I tried flame torch to loosen up the cylinder tube. It is still no go.

So where is this large O ring located? how to replace it?

Gwhite · Post by **Gwhite** » Wed Apr 16, 2014 4:39 pm

The one that is about an inch in diameter? That is the seal for the compression cylinder tube. If it isn't leaking (especially after taking a torch to the tube...), don't worry about it.

Removing the tube is reportedly VERY difficult, and I imagine that getting it back in place correctly aligned is just about as hard. That is why the technique for replacing the firing seal from the rear was developed.

Gwhite · Post by **Gwhite** » Wed Apr 16, 2014 7:52 pm

I put together a diagram of the seal installation tool along with a set of instructions.

NOTE: I got this info from Gene Sorvino, who is the Senior Gunsmith at Air Venturi & Pyramyd. I haven't had time to try this personally yet, but Gene really knows his stuff.

If you try this, please share any tips & caveats on the process. I will do a full write up with photos when I have a chance.

seamaster · Post by **seamaster** » Thu Apr 17, 2014 6:51 pm

Lubricating firing seal.

page 11 https://www.eaacorp.com/Manuals/IZH46.pdf

"open/ close level at different angles"

seamaster · Post by **seamaster** » Thu Apr 17, 2014 10:00 pm

Doug, I looked at your diagram from breech block closure hiss discussion carefully.

The only time fire valve is off from the seal is after shot release while breech block lever is down hatched.

Is it possible to lubricate the fire valve and seal by dripping 2 or 3 drops of oil from the pistol BARREL. Let the oil drift down the barrel, into the lever block holes, then into the action hole, then into the fire valve and seal, while fire valve/ seal is in the non-engaged, open position??

Obviously, I have to clean up the barrel with bore snake first to make sure there is no debris into the valve/ seal.

Stupid? Possible? Probable?

Gwhite · Post by **Gwhite** » Fri Apr 18, 2014 7:54 am

You can probably achieve the same ends by just dropping oil down the firing point and dry firing it a few times with the barrel pointed down. Then store it uncocked that way overnight. That will cycle the valve without blowing the oil out, and leave the valve open. Once you get oil on the valve, it will transfer it to the seal.

seamaster · Post by **seamaster** » Fri Apr 18, 2014 11:27 am

Once you open the breech lever, the valve is closed. The only time the valve is open is when the air has discharged, but also when the breech lever is hatched and unopen. Once you open the breech, even a tiny bit, the valve is closed. No? So the best way to oil the seal is with an open valve. But the valve is closed once you open the breech lever.

It is Catch 22. Is it not?

Gwhite · Post by **Gwhite** » Fri Apr 18, 2014 12:24 pm

The valve is opened when the you close the breech & pull the trigger. As long as you don't open the breech, it stays open. All this can be done independent of actually pressurizing anything.