TargetTalk

I have seen pictures and videos about copy routers used for copying rifle stocks and other wood parts - but not for copying match pistol grips.

I wonder why... So I made a copy router for pistol grip sized parts.
Almost all parts I used were scrap, left from disassembling some old machines.

I have two Benelli mp90s pistols. I used to swap the grip between them, but maybe soon I´ll have grip for both. Also the original grip of .32 pistol is broken. I have shaped it to better fit my hand. Lots of filler.. When shape is right I can copy the shape to wood.

Next I have to make templates for cutting the inside of grip.
Then make a fixture to hold the old, shaped grip and the fresh piece of wood to be shaped. Plan is to use those pieces of 1" plywood for that.

Socket head bolts were used to adjust the positioning fixtures, they won´t work when cutting wood :)

Do you guys have experience with this kind of machines?

JiriK wrote:Do you guys have experience with this kind of machines?

You might improve the capability of the machine if the pattern and blank can rotate.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUr5IFXNT0A

As you have probably discovered, set the stylus lower than the router bit because the new piece will always need sanding.

With a good setup, a duplicating router can mill the inside of the grip, too.

My copy router is here http://www.targettalk.org/viewtopic.php ... ght=router

The key thing I found was if you need a 50mm long cutter to fully profile into the heel of a grip then 1/4" cutters are too flexible and chatter too much.

I have made two grips so far with my machine. Have to say it´s messy business...

First one was not so good, broke during shaping but is usable.
Second one is better.

How is that rough gripping pattern (stipling?) made?

JiriK wrote:How is that rough gripping pattern (stipling?) made?

I use a #35 inverted-cone dental bur in a belt-drive handpiece. Tapping randomly across the surface from different directions will produce this style of stipple....

JiriK wrote: How is that rough gripping pattern (stipling?) made?

Igor did some interesting stuff on his hammerli grip:

http://toz35.blogspot.com/2013/01/checkering-tools.html

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edit: although I still think my favorite is Brian M's LP10. He put a two part epoxy over the whole grip, then embedded a coarse polishing sand into it. The picture he took is long lost, but that still sticks with me as a great grip. I do it the lazy way and use skateboard grip tape.

That epoxy-sand method sure sounds good.. Just finished oiling my grip after stippling it with dremel and ball end ~1mm bit.
Quite a lot of work for such a small part. Will use different method next time :)

Yeah, but try to work on a sanded grip afterwards - that will kill your tools in minutes, for sure. Just smear a thin film of filler or grip paste (like the Morini stuff) on it, and then tap away with your finger or with a sponge, will give you a nice "grippy" surface and no problems when you decide to take off another chunk of it.

Tycho wrote:Yeah, but try to work on a sanded grip afterwards

ooo definitely. That's only something you do once you KNOW you have a grip you like (at least 1000 shots with it I'd say).

I found a finish nail sharpened to a point to work better than a cutting burr in a dremel tool. I sharpened the tip to a rounded point by turning the nail against a stone or some sandpaper. Then I just dotted the surface until I achieved the surface finish I was looking for (with the deremel spinning of course). With a 1/16 cutting burr, the material removal can change the overall thickness of the wood grip before you get to a good grippy surface.

Either way, it takes patience and time. Magnifying glasses like a jeweler wears also help a lot as well as good light.

My .02 worth

There is a grip maker in Sydney, Australia* who uses an impact engraving tool with the impact rate slowed right down. Works very well.

* Barry Cameron