TargetTalk

Wondering if it's possible to adjust the trigger of a Morini 162 EI for a 'rolling' release? Or does that fact that it's an e-trigger preclude this?

There is no mention of how to do this in the user manual?

Leon, I dorked around with mine for a long time trying for the roll. The problem I found was the second stage is crisp and I couldn't get it to roll. The first stage "llghter" rolled perfectly. Then came the second stage with the increase in weight and a soon breaking-of-the-shot. That messed me up. The closest I got was to switch springs on the first and second stages and set the second stage with enough tension to keep the spring straight. Then I set the first stage for the total legal trigger weight. It rolled right through, but there was no second stage, just a roll.
HTH
Ben

Leon wrote:Wondering if it's possible to adjust the trigger of a Morini 162 EI for a 'rolling' release?

There is (somewhere, impossible to see it from outside) a screw to adjust the slack of the micro-switch. Normally it is set (as far as I remember) at 1/4 of turn. But it is possible to set it differently, to get a short clean break trigger or a longer one (emulating a 'rolling' trigger, maybe).

The second stage travel screw (on top of the trigger assy when removed from the frame) has a small amount of adjustment which is limited by the amount of micro switch spring/lever movement.
Limited between 1/4 and 3/4 turn.
The older circuit (15v battery) the switch had more available movement.

Thanks guys - will give it a go...

Can I ask out of genuine interest why you want to change the trigger to a roll feel,and how a roll feel might help you?

Neale

tufty wrote:Can I ask out of genuine interest why you want to change the trigger to a roll feel,and how a roll feel might help you?

Neale

Because a roll type trigger sort of forces you to into good technique. That is you hold the best you can, watch the sights as best you can while squeezing the trigger. Because there is no definite point where the shot breaks, you don't try to pick off the shot at the "now" moment. It's hard to explain.

It's my trigger of choice for Rapid fire, Standard pistol and Centre fire but I use a normal 2 stage trigger in Air Pistol.

" Because a roll type trigger sort of forces you to into good technique. That is you hold the best you can, watch the sights as best you can while squeezing the trigger. Because there is no definate point where the shot breaks, you don't try to pick off the shot at the "now" moment. "

Absolutely spot-on explanation........

I think JTeam nailed it in his reply.

I personally have tried a little different approach to the same end. That is, to concentrate on trigger squeeze while trusting my hold.

John Zurek tells me this is the method the Russian shooters are training with. Sounds reasonable.

"It's my trigger of choice for Rapid fire, Standard pistol and Centre fire but I use a normal 2 stage trigger in Air Pistol."

For RF, Standard and CF, do you have your trigger set to a single stage roll trigger, or do you have a two stage roll trigger?

Just a single stage.

David M wrote:The second stage travel screw (on top of the trigger assy when removed from the frame) has a small amount of adjustment which is limited by the amount of micro switch spring/lever movement.
Limited between 1/4 and 3/4 turn.
The older circuit (15v battery) the switch had more available movement.

As I've often struggled with a crisp trigger, I've taken the advice of Ben and swapped the stage springs around and adjusted the weight of the first (and now only) stage up to 500 grams (thus the “shelf” between the two stages has disappeared). After so many years of having a two-stage crisp trigger on my Morini AP it is quite a radical change to have it roll but early results are quite promising. I'm quite interested in pursuing the idea of adjusting the second stage travel screw (I have the old 15v model) in the hope that I can get the firing point to come a little later through the trigger pull but I'm unsure as to how to access it. If I could get the 2nd stage to roll, I would probably go back to a two-stage set-up. Presumably I have to remove the whole trigger assembly to get to it. Can anyone advise as to how this is done?

1/ remove base plate and take out circuit board.
2/ remove grip screws, remove grip
3/ remove rear vertical strap (caution under spring pressure)
4/ remove trigger guard screw, remove trigger guard
5/ remove rear cross pin of trigger assy
6/ remove trigger assy from frame
7/ Adjustment screw is small vertical screw on top of trigger assy.
8/ Refit the circuit board and turn 'on'
Winding the screw 'in' (clockwise) will push down on the secondry trigger
bar and set the micro switch 'off' to fire the solenoid.
9/ Very slowly screw the screw 'in' until the trigger fires.
10/ back the screw 'out' between 1/4 to 3/4 turn (1/2 on AAA cell trigger)
Maximum adjustment is limited by the micro switch movement.
11/ try the feel.
12/ re set if required and re assemble.
13/ reset trigger weight after re assembly.

David M wrote:1/ remove base plate and take out circuit board.
.....

Wow! Thank you David. Your help is very much appreciated. I'll give it a try this weekend.

why would you take the rear strap off?

Is there a preferred or extremely common trigger feel that dominates? Kind of like how you could shoot for center bull but obviously sub-six or sub-sub-six is wildly more popular and successful. Right now I'm shooting a single stage, more or less, with a bit of overtravel on my IZH. I'm wondering if I should add pretravel back into it.

Houngan wrote:Is there a preferred or extremely common trigger feel that dominates?

I would say that it's the two stage trigger. But it's a personal choice. You should choose the kind (single, two stage or roll) that suits you better. And by that I mean the one that gives you a more consistent shot.

Houngan wrote:Is there a preferred or extremely common trigger feel that dominates? Kind of like how you could shoot for center bull but obviously sub-six or sub-sub-six is wildly more popular and successful. Right now I'm shooting a single stage, more or less, with a bit of overtravel on my IZH. I'm wondering if I should add pretravel back into it.

I'd say it would be a two-stage trigger with 300 - 350 grams on the first stage followed by a very crisp second stage of 200 - 150 grams. However that's probably because that's how a majority of pre-charged AP's are made and delivered. That said, changing the trigger set-up on my 162e has given my AP shooting a new lease of life and I'm now enjoying it much more than I have for ages.

Fortitudo Dei wrote:

Houngan wrote:Is there a preferred or extremely common trigger feel that dominates? Kind of like how you could shoot for center bull but obviously sub-six or sub-sub-six is wildly more popular and successful. Right now I'm shooting a single stage, more or less, with a bit of overtravel on my IZH. I'm wondering if I should add pretravel back into it.

I'd say it would be a two-stage trigger with 300 - 350 grams on the first stage followed by a very crisp second stage of 200 - 150 grams. However that's probably because that's how a majority of pre-charged AP's are made and delivered. That said, changing the trigger set-up on my 162e has given my AP shooting a new lease of life and I'm now enjoying it much more than I have for ages.

Hi - which adjustment method did you find best? Changing the first and second stage springs etc or adjusting the trigger screw - as per David M's instructions?

Leon wrote: Hi - which adjustment method did you find best? Changing the first and second stage springs etc or adjusting the trigger screw - as per David M's instructions?

The spring-swap method which to be honest I wasn't expecting. I had become so accustomed to a two-stage trigger that I believed that just had to be the best option yet it turned out that it wasn’t.
Swapping springs means that it is a constant 500 grams through the entire travel of the trigger both before and after the firing point with no real difference between the two halves. If I turn off the electronics I can just feel the point where the switch engages but once I dry-fire with the electronics running I can't really detect it any more as the click of the solenoid overrides the sensation of the switch engaging. To some extent there is still an element of staging as I begin by taking up the pressure on the trigger and feel the pad of my finger depress (much like I do with my Morini 84e) . Then once the trigger starts moving, you just keep on going through the smooth, consistent-weight travel of the trigger until it goes off. The weird thing is that it feels easier to pull through a constant 500 grams than it did to pull through c.350 grams + c.150 grams (with my finger sometimes getting stuck on that shelf between the two stages and refusing to move any further). I have yet to shoot a competition with this set-up, so hopefully the improvement I’m seeing in my practice scores won’t all turn to custard when I next get to shoot a proper match.
To swap the springs and set it up correctly you really do need a set of trigger weights though.