Sorry for the possibly too brief and provocative answer - I did not want to derail the thread, which was started asking about multi-focus cateract inserts. These use a diffractive focus technology which is well beyond the scope of ordinary diffractive lens discussions.
However, to avoid starting contraversy, let me clarify my comments.
Background. My name is Art Neergaard, owner of ShootingSight LLC, I am a Highpower shooter - Service Rifle mostly. I am a mechanical engineer, but also studied some optics. I am a technical photographer, which means I suck at the artistic part, but I understand lens settings. I am NOT an eye doctor. So while I understand the physics of lenses and imaging, I cannot comment on eye diseases beyond the basic near sighted/far sighted/presbiopic conditions. I founded a small company, and I make and sell corrective lenses for shooters.
Shooting is a game of depth of field. You are trying to juxtapose a nearby front sight and a distant target, so you want to see both clearly at the same time. THis is especially true if you are shooting a 6 o'clock hold. As a photographer, I know that if I want to take a picture of a person, and have the mountains behind them also be in focus, there are two things I want the camera lens to do: first is to focus at what is called the hyperfocal distance of my subject. THis will centralize my depth of field so the subject is at the near end, while the mountains are at the far end. THe second thing I want to do is to use as small an aperture as possible, to maximize that depth of field. Regrettably, small apertures cut out light, so the practical limitation is that you want to use as small an aperture as possible without dimming the image.
Lens power is what drives where the human eye will focus. Normally, the cilary muscle in your eye is relaxed, and your lens will be big and flat and you focus at infinity. As you exert the eye muscle, it squeezes your lens to be small and fat, and you focus up close. Either due to presbiopia, or just to avoid muscle fatigue in your eye, a better solution is to add an eyeglass lens which will shift your focus closer, so the eye muscle does not have to exert itself. We can actually apply photography formulas to determine what lens you want.
Hyperfocal distance, assuming the target is at optical infinity (and anything 50 ft and over is effectively at optical infinity) works out simply to be 2X the distance to the near object. So, if you have a 30 inch barrel, your hyperfocal distance is 60 inches. If your eye is focused at 60 inches, whatever depth of field you have will be balanced between the front sight and the target.
Now, what lens do you want? Lens focal length is simply the inverse of the diopter power. A +2 diopter lens will focus at 1/2 meters. A 3 diopter lens will focus at 1/3 meter, and so on. If I want to focus at 60 inches, which is 1.5 meters, I would want a 1/1.5 diopter lens, which is a 2/3 or 0.66 diopter lens.
Now, lenses typically come in steps of 0.25 diopters, and for anatomical reasons I won't go into, you always want to round down, so for your 30 inch barrel, you want a +0.5 diopter lens. If you have a much shorter sight radius, as in for pistol or an AR-15, the optimal lens typically works out to +0.75. If you shoot pistol and have very short arms (ie women) you might arrive at a +1.0. All of these numbers, if you wear glasses for distance, you would take this calculated number and mathematically add it to the spherical component of your glasses prescription.
So, in summary, there is an optimal focus setup to distribute your depth of field. In addition, using a small aperture will broaden that depth of field, so long as it is not so small that it dims it out.
If these two steps are done correctly, you will arrive at a point where the target and the front sight are in optical focus at the same time, and you will see as well as you did when you were 18.
Art Neergaard
ShootingSight
www.shootingsight.com
shootingsight@nuvox.net
+1-513-702-4879