TargetTalk

The trigger blade of my LP10 had no backlash at all, no overtravel at all, when the sear/hammer disengagement occurred. Note that I do not use the trigger-stop screw, thai is to say that the screw is unscrewed completely.
Now, after many months, I noticed something strange. The trigger blade kicks 'forward' (in the direction of the front sight) when the shot breaks. This, in turn, seems to produce an 'erratic' movement of the pistol, during the shot.
I know that this often means that the sear/hammer engagement is too "short". But that kick 'forward', of the trigger blade, does not disappear when I adjust the sear/hammer engagement.
What to do? Any idea?

I suggest putting a little over travel back in and see if it goes away. Have you looked at the sear, is it worn? How much travel do you have in the trigger? What approx. are first, second stage weights?

I have seen this before and if I remember correct it was a trigger that had very little travel (almost no) the weights were very low and there was zero over travel. But it was a long time ago.

What I would do is get it back to close to factory adjustment (problem should go away) then re-adjust to where you like it. If the adjustment is too extreme the problem might come back and the trigger might not be adjusted to that set of parameters.

Richard H wrote: I suggest putting a little over travel back in and see if it goes away. Have you looked at the sear, is it worn? How much travel do you have in the trigger? What approx. are first, second stage weights?

Thanks. Actually I have maximum overtravel, the trigger-stop screw is completely unscrewed. The sear should be in good condition (the LP10 is one year old). The first stage travel is consistent, I mean long. The weights are around 370 (first stage)/160.

Richard H wrote: I have seen this before and if I remember correct it was a trigger that had very little travel (almost no) the weights were very low and there was zero over travel. But it was a long time ago.

I can say that if I reduce the first stage travel that "kick forward" becomes more evident. And If I reduce the sear/hammer engagement it becomes more evident again.

Richard H wrote: What I would do is get it back to close to factory adjustment (problem should go away) then re-adjust to where you like it. If the adjustment is too extreme the problem might come back and the trigger might not be adjusted to that set of parameters.

That's right. Or I should change the sear & the hammer.

Thanks Ruig. I'll try it.

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[story update]
1) "The bridging of the sear between trigger sear and trigger lever is exactly [hmmm] adjusted by the factory and must not be changed". In my LP10 the *original* position of the adjusting screw is about 50 degrees anticlockwise from the "zero" position (sear/hammer disengagement). With this original setting I can feel, and see, a kick (forward) of the trigger blade, when the shot breaks.
2) I remember that 20 years ago Emil Senfter told me, about the trigger mechanism of the LP1: "When you feel a kick "forward", it means that the sear/hammer engagement is too short."
3) Now I've tried to re-adjust the sear/hammer engagement on my LP10 and I realized the kick "forward" of the trigger blade vanishes if I set the sear/hammer engagement screw about 80 degrees anticlockwise from the "zero" position.

ruig wrote:possible reason

I would be VERY leery of putting a magnet in the middle of a precision mechanism. Over time, it will attract fine particles from any wear, and concentrate them. Even if you remove the magnet, it can easily magnetize the mechanism, which can cause the pieces to stick together. They make "anti-magnetic" watches for a good reason.

The simple fact is somewhere at least one of the settings is outside the useable range of adjustments or something is worn or broken. I suspect it's mis-adjusted.

Richard H wrote: The simple fact is somewhere at least one of the settings is outside the useable range of adjustments ....

This seems not probable, since the first stage is around 350/370 gr. (and the screw in normal position), the second stage around 150/170 gr. (and the screw in normal position), the first stage travel is medium, the trigger-stop screw is completely unscrewed ....

Richard H wrote: .... or something is worn or broken.

That's possible, imo.

I must say that turning anticlockwise the sear/hammer screw from the *original* 50° to 80° I still have a "dry" trigger, not a "roll-over" or something like that.

Well the first thing, having the trigger stop screw completely removed is not a normal adjustment.

It sounds like your pistol needs some professional help.