TargetTalk

I am trying to adjust my Morini CM162EI 2-stage trigger and was wondering what people use to check the indiviual stage weights as opposed to the standard trigger dead weight tester?

Hopefully someone has some cheap ideas!

I just use my finger. It gives me all of the information I need.

I do have a Correx gauge but all that gives you are numbers. I couldn't give a damn whether my second stage is adjusted to 200g or 100g, it's the feel that matters.

A74BEDLM wrote:I am trying to adjust my Morini CM162EI 2-stage trigger and was wondering what people use to check the indiviual stage weights as opposed to the standard trigger dead weight tester?

Hopefully someone has some cheap ideas!

put standard 500g trigger weight on the platen of an electronic scale - it's a simple subtraction

A74BEDLM wrote:I am trying to adjust my Morini CM162EI 2-stage trigger and was wondering what people use to check the indiviual stage weights as opposed to the standard trigger dead weight tester?

Hopefully someone has some cheap ideas!

put standard 500g trigger weight on the platen of an electronic scale - it's a simple subtraction

Thanks, mine FEELS wrong.
I'll give it a go, Correx gauges too expensive at the moment.

A74BEDLM wrote:Correx gauges too expensive at the moment.

Keep an eye on ebay. I bought a 1000-0-1000 for about £12 (plus postage from Australia) and a 2000-0-2000 for only a little more.

Have a look at this thread:

viewtopic.php?t=31623

There are a couple of practical suggestions there.

Roger

An less expensive alternative to Correx gauges for measuring trigger pulls is the Lyman electronic gauge:

http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/tool ... -gauge.php

It will read +/- 2 grams up to 2.2 kg. I wouldn't try it on a free pistol, but it works fine for everything else. You can get them new for ~ $50.

Picked up a Correx today (had 1 hour to go with no bids) for £20 on ebay - bargain!

I thought about making a trigger weight set, but as I considered the weights I'd have to make and what increments would be useful, I realized I don't need a general purpose set. For just an air pistol all I really need is Go-NoGo gauge, so I cobbled this up in the shop today.

The weight is JB Welded to the hook (hey, at least there's no duct tape) and the assembly weighs 530g. The additional weight is 30g. If the trigger lifts one, but not both, then the trigger pull is between 530g and 560g. How it is distributed between first and second stage is by feel anyway, so I don't need a weight for each stage. Simple and fool proof. Well, fool resistant anyway.

Roger

I realize this is an old thread but what model Correx and how did you attach a wire to pull the trigger?

Thanks

Joe

RandomShotz wrote:The weight is JB Welded to the hook (hey, at least there's no duct tape) and the assembly weighs 530g.

Drill or machine those 30g from the under part of the weight. That way you can get it to 500g quite easy. If you go a couple of grams down the 500 mark, a metal washer or a nut down the shaft will get it back on target (no pun intended).

Hope this helps

arch stanton wrote:I realize this is an old thread but what model Correx and how did you attach a wire to pull the trigger?

I'm not sure why you would want to attach a wire; just use the lever.

mca -

I can machine it down to within .01 gm or less - I run a machine shop in a research laboratory and have access to all kinds of precision scales.

The way in which the weight is set on the trigger and lifted can affect whether a trigger right on the mark passes or not. Also, springs get tired and can easily get out of spec if they aren't checked for a while so I decided to leave a 30 gm margin of insurance. Besides, my fingers are not subtle enough to detect the difference between 500 and 530 gm pull, although I can see how a shooter on a higher level might feel differently. YMMV, of course.

Roger

Hi Roger

30 grams does not make a difference in AP. Let me get this clear. But...

Since you already made an extra 30g weight there is no point in having the original weight at 530g. Those 500g +30g are quite sufficient to get you passed in even the most clumsy EQ officer.
60g equals a 12% increase on the minimal weight of the trigger.
If you might not feel the difference, but you are putting 12% more force to pull the trigger than you have to. This increases the tendency to slap or jerk the trigger, and also makes you grab the grip a bit harder. With training all of this can be iron out, but you're still starting a bit back than you have to.

Get it down to where it barely lifts the 530g and you will see that you can lift the 500g without much care.

Hope this helps

I see where you are coming from, but my intention was to make a "go-no go" gauge. The lower weight just shows that the trigger has enough resistance to pass a test. The 30 g weight is then added to make sure that the trigger fails, guaranteeing that the trigger pull is more than 530 g and also less than 560 g. This is probably a result of my experience in manufacturing and quality control, albeit a bit obsessive/compulsive for this particular application.

I grant that you are right that this is an overly generous "go" range. A better idea might be to make the weights 520 g and 10 g. However, I made this right after I started shooting AP and it made sense to me at the time. BTW, soon afterwards I started shooting Bullseye and compared to the the minimum 2 to 3-1/2 pound (907 - 1587 g) pull on those guns, 530 g is very light.

Roger

David Levene wrote:

arch stanton wrote:I realize this is an old thread but what model Correx and how did you attach a wire to pull the trigger?

I'm not sure why you would want to attach a wire; just use the lever.

I am not clear as to how the gauge functions how do you pull on the trigger with that straight arm?

Joe

arch stanton wrote:

David Levene wrote:

arch stanton wrote:I realize this is an old thread but what model Correx and how did you attach a wire to pull the trigger?

I'm not sure why you would want to attach a wire; just use the lever.

I am not clear as to how the gauge functions how do you pull on the trigger with that straight arm?

You push the trigger with the lever perpendicular to it.

Roger

I know that AP are light... But try to go from a free pistol match to a rapid fire or standard one... There's a difference in weight!

Joe

Trigger measuring devices are quite simple. You hook the 1 part to the trigger blade, and pull number 2.
Or, in the case of ISSF trigger weights, like the one above, with the pistol held vertically, hook the top part to the trigger and then lift the pistol without it fire. That means that the trigger has at least the 500g required weight for AP (1000g for rapid, center and standard pistol).

Hope this helps