TargetTalk

My Pardini is one week old and has about 100 rounds through it. Tonight I shot off 20 goods shots on one target. I changed the target and all I got was a click from the electronic mechanism. I pulled the trigger a few more times and another shot went off randomly.

I thought I had a bad round so I changed the magazine. More clicks and no fires. I racked the slide, ejected the bullet and tried again. All I got was clicks. I examined the bullets and there was no marking at all on the rims. The pin is not even hitting the brass!

With the slide all the way back, I could see the firing pin extrude when the bullet is ejected.

I got home and undid the bolt below the barrel and pulled off the barrel / bolt assembly. Everything was intact. I could push the firing pin and feel a little spring resistance. I compared the firing pin in the gun with the spare pin and they both have chisel points. I am at a loss what to do next but I am a really unhappy camper.

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I am able to what is not happening – the hammer is not releasing. I pulled the handle off and I can where the sear is engaging the hammer but the hammer is not getting released. I slipped the handle back on with the batteries and pulled the trigger about 20 times. I got 20 clicks of the solenoid and then the hammer released.

Is this a trigger adjustment and should it be happening on a new gun that worked for the first 100 rounds? The Pardini manual is not very well written and there is nothing about ajusting the sear. Any suggestions? I can't take it to a gun dealer or return it to the service depot without a lot of paperwork and driving. Thanks.

With an electronic trigger the first thing I always check is the batteries. I'd swap them out, low batteries can cause all sorts of malfunctions. I shot a whole match in the cold with my free pistol which required two shots on almost every round to get it to fire ( first hit even showed a descent strike). I changed the batteries and all was fixed.

Nope. One of the first things I did was changed the batteries. Sorry I forgot to mention that.

Hi!

It will be probably best if you call me whenever you have time and have the gun with you so that we can check several things. Meanwhile here are some things you can do.

Based on your description it look like the solenoid is working but there is not enough power to move the sear so that the hammer is released. This can be mainly because of two reasons. First there is not enough power of the solenoid. If this is the case you have to change the batteries one more time by using 2 fresh ones (it is very hot and the battery life is shorten very easy). If this does not help you may have a problem with the electronic block. PLEASE do not attempt to repair this by yourself. Since this is a new gun it is under warranty and your dealer should be responsible for the warranty. If you bought it from us we will replace it. If not try with the dealer you bought the gun from. If you have any problems send email to Pardini Armi Srl and copy to us. However before you are sure that this is the electronic unit please check the other possible problem - restraint movement of the sear. Take of the magazine and make sure that the gun is unloaded and there is nothing in the chamber. Take the grip off. Cock the gun and install the dry-firing pin. Look from behind under the rear sight. you will see the sear on the top of the solenoid. There is a spring with diameter about 1/4 inch that is pushing the sear down. Take a fine flat screw driver and gently push the sear up. Try to feel if the hummer is released easy. You can try several times, just make sure the dry-fire plug is in place. If it moves easy and the hammer is dropping the problem is back to the electronic unit. If you feel any obstructions to move the sear, check carefully for dirt and other foreign objects. If necessary clean the gun. Keep in mind NO OIL (or any other liquid) IS ALLOWD even close to the electronic unit. Please read the manual. If even after the cleaning the gun is not working call me and we will see what can be done. If it is necessary you will send the pistol to the dealer. If you have problems please do not hesitate to contact us. You can send the gun to us as well, but if it is under warranty this can be used as a reason to void it. In any case don't worry, the gun will be fixed. Just keep me posted.

Sorry for your troubles but the pistol will be fixed.

Have a nice day!

Vladimir Chichkov

Pardini USA LLC
www.PardiniGuns.com
www.pardiniguns.com/store
info@pardiniguns.com
Cell: 1.813.748 3378

I seem to have misplaced the little blue plug. I put in the blank plug from my Walther SSP ant it works. I can cock the gug with the handle off, lift the plate above the selenoid and the sear releases the hammer.

If I slide the handle on, I have to pull the trigger and and 10 - 15 clicks before the hammer will release. I bought the gun from North Sylva in Ontario.

Go see Peter Krause at North Sylva he knows what he's doing. Don't forget to call and get a temporary ATT first. Also call ahead to make sure he's in.

I found the black dry-fire plug. I can lift the sear from the selenoid and the hammer releases but if I pull the trigger it just clicks away. I have tried different (new) batteries. I got an ATT and will take it to Peter tomorrow. Thanks.

You have a temporary ATT to take it to North Sylva? You do know your regular ATT only covers back and forth to an approved range? Just making sure wouldn't want you to get in trouble.

Yes, I called the CFO this morning and got a temp ATT. Thanks.

This is a common problem with Pardini electronics. I discovered the fix is far more simple than most people believe. The issue is that the electronic block is held in place with only two screws and these screws "shoot loose".

Apply a small amount of service-removeable loctite (222 or 242) to the screws, install them, let the loctite get semi-dry, then remove the screws and let the loctite dry. Once it's dry, install the electronic block in the pistol and torque the screws. The loctite will not lock the screws in place permanently (if you used the recommended grades) but rather will provide just a small amount of additional drag which will prevent the screws from vibrating loose.

My SP1 Electronic and HPE both had this problem and both were rendered 100% reliable performers once this minor modification was implemented.

My Pardini SP1 started to do the same thing after coming back from the gunsmith - on rapid fire just a selenoid click. I drop the clip and pull the bolt back about 1/4", just enough to ensure the bullet is chambered properly. After 6 or 7 selenoid clcks, the gun with go off. I told North Sylva (Canadian distributor) if they cannot find anything wrong to fix, then I want my money back. When it works, it is deadly accurate. Last time they fixed the buffer that slipped. I am lucky if there is 400 rounds through this gun. Pardini must have recognized a problem if they came out with a buffer/bolt integrated as one piece. Only happens on rapid fire. I am on second set of Duracell batteries. Almost as if the batteries cannot keep up with the drain placed by coil during rapid fire. I am very disapponted.My Pardini SP1 started to do the same thing after coming back from the gunsmith - on rapid fire just a selenoid click. I drop the clip and pull the bolt back about 1/4", just enough to ensure the bullet is chambered properly. After 6 or 7 selenoid clcks, the gun with go off. I told North Sylva (Canadian distributor) if they cannot find anything wrong to fix, then I want my money back. When it works, it is deadly accurate. Last time they fixed the buffer that slipped. I am lucky if there is 400 rounds through this gun. Pardini must have recognized a problem if they came out with a buffer/bolt integrated as one piece. Only happens on rapid fire. I am on second set of Duracell batteries. Almost as if the batteries cannot keep up with the drain placed by coil during rapid fire. I am very disapponted.

[quote="Mark Briggs"]This is a common problem with Pardini electronics. I discovered the fix is far more simple than most people believe. The issue is that the electronic block is held in place with only two screws and these screws "shoot loose".

Mark, thank you for the valuable post. The problem was the buffer last time and the gunsmith fixed it. I included your post in my description for the gunsmith to look over. When the gun works properly, it is one of the best guns I have ever shot. I sure hope they can fix it.

Just in case... make sure the part number stamped on your electronics assembly is "760" or higher (760 is the last part number which I know to be good, don't know about any newer part numbers). Part numbers lower than 760 should be replaced under warranty as they are known to eat up batteries.

To give you a point of comparison... My HPE (with a P/N 760 electronics module) is on the same set of batteries that I installed two years ago. Don't know how many rounds have gone through the pistol on these batteries but certainly 1000 or more. In my SP1 Electronic I never changed the batteries the whole time I owned it. You should get at least 5000 shots per set of batteries if you shoot regularly.