TargetTalk

I've just obtained an old, but good, Walther CP2 Match. A set of o-rings is on it's way to me.

Can anyone point me towards some strip-down instructions please, as the exploded drawing on the Walther site is not very self explanatory.

I doubt the job is rocket science, but fore warned is fore armed.

Pretty straightforward gun to rebuild. Study the diagram and consider that there are only three o-rings to replace: #307, 305 and 225 total! Start by removing the two screws #50 holding the CO2 tank probe. Do it slowly to catch the valve shaft #305 and its spring #204 as they pop out. Take pictures as you work. Replace #307 and #305 after a light silicone grease. Replace in reverse order. #225 may not require replacement. Check with tissue paper over the breach while firing the gun. If the tissue flys up upon firing call/email me. If the tank leaks the internal o-ring replacement will fix it - also somewhat long to describe here but quite easy.
Good luck

Thanks ghilt. PM sent.

Hi derekm,

I have a walther CPM1 and would like to buy a set of seals.

Can you please inform where is possible to buy in europe?

Best regards,

Luis

The best source of Walther info and bits in the UK is Bill Welch, he trades as "Bill's Walther Spares and Repairs" phone (44) 1243 552204, e mail mogwap@dsl.pipex.com

Apparently sometimes the factory obtains parts from him for older guns!

If you know for sure what materials you need for the seals, you can get the sizes from: http://www.carl-walther.de/files/pdf/CPM1_2602865.pdf

and then order your seals from: http://www.fairwayseals.co.uk/

Be sure you get the right material though, because some orings swell in CO2. I've just made that mistake by specifying Viton, unless Fairway made a boo boo with the material.

Derekm, your right! my #225 should be #226 (poor copy + ancient eyes). To replace him requires the removal of the entire probe assembly. Start with the rear sight and have a small magnet in your hand to catch small parts when you unscrew the L/H attach screw (#5) because the small spring and detent ball are easily lost (they can be obtained cheaply without bothering Walther). Next comes the operating lever #223, cross pins #35 and 37. And the entire assembly can be drawn out from either the slot in the receiver top or the through hole.
The tank o-ring #27 does take a lot of gaff and needs to be metric and polyurethane --(probably green for European or pale yellow to off white US. You might consider investing in an o-ring probe to remove the tank o-ring. Be careful, everything in there - brass and polyu are softer than the probe! Just insert the probe between the brass o-ring groove shoulder and the ring and pry out. Use silicone grease on a new o-ring, squeeze the middle into a figure “8” and push one end of the ring down into the groove with a wooden popsickle stick. Chase the remainder of the ring into the groove and your all set.
Thus the end of Chapter ll. Let me know how the CP-2 survives its critical operation. Good luck to the patient.

Thank you for the information, I will try to get a set of seals for tye cpm1.

Best regards,

Luis

Thanks for that explanation ghilt. If I understand correctly, there will be no need to remove the "hammer" No312.

I have a small problem here, because the drawing says pin 313 is a "kerbstift" which translates to grooved or slotted taper pin. My gun has had a bit of Southern Engineering in the past and this pin has become a rolled up piece of thin sheet!

I don't want to try removing it until I have obtained a set of parallel pin punches and also a correct replacement, from Bill Welch in UK.

Success! Got the probe o-ring changed. Not rocket science, just pretty fiddley. The ball and spring stayed in place, held by grease, but I need a new spring as the old one was in three pieces. I can now see how the Hammer comes out, when I get the correct pin.
Thanks again!