TargetTalk

Recently I handled a friends GSP and was somewhat surprised by his "practice" trigger weight of just 600 Grams. He told me that he just winds the weight down !
Now, rule book aside, is a 1990 GSP trigger capable of being taken down to this low weight? Or to 1000 gr for that matter ?
I mean owners of pre 1000 gr rule guns, spend good money replacing 1360 trigger units !
Am I missing some vital element here?
Perhaps, 1360 units can be taken down to 1000, but not without some performance degradation...dont know...his 600 gram trigger felt nice !

in my experience with a number of GSP triggers, it is simply a matter of adjustment - likewise with the old RFP practice trigger to +1360g for CF (at first) and now +1000g, simply a matter of adjustment.

Have no experience of the GSP; I was a bit intrigued by this because of the , what looks like a healthy amount of GSP trigger unit exchanges you see in Europe.
I mean they must be getting something out of spending the odd 150 euro on a 1000 gm unit.

simply a matter of adjustment.

This is the simple truth of the matter.

My experience with Walther triggers is that they can be adjusted quite widely in terms of release pressure. My 32 trigger, originally a 2-stage 1360grm unit was quite "hard" feeling, but when I adjusted it down to 1100 grms it smoothed out and gave a much superior release experience. The single stage 1000 grm unit can indeed be lowered quite a bit - but why would you do it? A good or great trigger feels like a good or great trigger irrespective of release weight. I've tried 5 and 6 pound triggers that I swore would not make the old 1360 standard - exceptional, yes, but ...........

Dr Jim

The 1000 and 1360 hgrame triggers are the same. If you look at the old GSP manual you can see how to adjsut the trigger weight and over travel.

to avoid problems, follow the adjustment procedures:
- exactly in the order as in the manual, and
- other than trigger pull, overtravel and initial slack exactly as in the manual (i.e. the factory sear settings work, other settings can give rise to 'strange' effects)

Spencer wrote:(i.e. the factory sear settings work, other settings can give rise to 'strange' effects)

I had a 1980 vintage .22/.32 GSP set; the one with the flat-sided trigger units.

The instructions said"cock th hammer, turn the screw in until the hammer falls then back off the screw of a quarter turn. On both of my trigger units, and several others of the same era, that setting would guarantee a maxim. The screw had to be backed off a third of a turn from the release point.

David Levene wrote:

Spencer wrote:(i.e. the factory sear settings work, other settings can give rise to 'strange' effects)

I had a 1980 vintage .22/.32 GSP set; the one with the flat-sided trigger units.

The instructions said"cock th hammer, turn the screw in until the hammer falls then back off the screw of a quarter turn. On both of my trigger units, and several others of the same era, that setting would guarantee a maxim. The screw had to be backed off a third of a turn from the release point.

So you're quibbling over 1/8 of a turn? ;)

I had the Walther guys work on my GSP trigger at WCH and afterwards it took two full turns on the second stage screw to get it down near 1000g.

That said, they provided awesome service, including getting me back on the line after a (potentially) catastrophic malfunction in CF.

john bickar wrote:So you're quibbling over 1/8 of a turn? ;)

Not quibbling, just pointing out that the factory advised settings do not always work.

Quibbling would be me pointing out that the difference between 1/4 and 1/3 is 1/12, not 1/8 ;-)

While playing about with the same second hand GSP my friend bought, in our blissfull ignorance we had thought that the trigger unit was faulty because, following the factory recommendations to the letter, it would not work.
I suppose this explains it.

schatzperson wrote:While playing about with the same second hand GSP my friend bought, in our blissfull ignorance we had thought that the trigger unit was faulty because, following the factory recommendations to the letter, it would not work.
I suppose this explains it.

perssonally never had any problems when setting the sear to 'factory', but - how about...
Never reduce the sear less than the factory manual adjustment?

David Levene wrote:

john bickar wrote:So you're quibbling over 1/8 of a turn? ;)

Quibbling would be me pointing out that the difference between 1/4 and 1/3 is 1/12, not 1/8 ;-)

What can I say? I'm a product of the American public school system :)

My issue with the new 2 stage trigger is it is riveted together and can't be cleaned up.
The holes for the stage plungers are rough giving the trigger a scritchy release

The stage 2 can also be pretty stiff but I reduced it and the stage 1 as well (on a 1360 unit) It is servicable now but I am not enamored with tgrs that are all spring. A sliding sear is a constant force device whereas a spring increases force with distance traveled

regards