TargetTalk

I recently purchased an IZH46. I read the pros and cons, but have to say that thus far I don't think you can beat it for the money. My questions are:
1) What type or brand of oil do you recommend to lubricate the piston seal? I have Browning and Beretta gun oil handy, are they acceptable? I've shot the gun 200 times, should it be lubricated now. How much, where, and how often do I need to lubricate the piston?
2) What other points do I need to lubricate?
Any other maintenance tips would be appreciated. Thanks
Tom

I am in the market for one as well, and would be interested in hearing owners' input.

The Pyramyd Air blog (http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2008/04/ ... art-2.html) reports that the IZH-46M "requires Crosman Pellgunoil often to remain operational." The linked page has some advise on maintenence - first, store with the breach open to relieve pressure on the seals; second, oil often (not sure about the specifics); and third, pump with two or three mini-strokes, rather than one difficult stroke. Interestingly, the author seemed to find that the gun shot faster at the end of a shooting session than at the start, possibly because the parts were warming up and creating a better seal (?).

Also, if I may add a question to Tom's inquiry - what pellets does your Izzy group the best? I'm curious to see if most of these pistols like one brand/series or if individual pistols vary.

You don't want to use regular gun oil on an air gun - it will ruin the seals. Use Crosman Pellgun Oil. Here are some links for the IZZY

look at the links on the lower right side:
http://www.airgunarena.com/index.php/IZ ... Air_Pistol

follow the Replacing the IZH46 Piston Seal link for a great slide show:
http://www.pilkguns.com/doityourself.shtml

As far as pellets go, most people will suggest RWS Hobby's and I would agree. If you buy RWS Basics they shoot just as well as the Hobby's and they're a dollar less. However, most people will also suggest that you need to worry more about your technique than the pellets you will be using, at least in the beginning.

For maintenance, I would suggest cleaning out the old grease in the cylinder and putting some new silicone grease in there. My pistol immediately started shooting harder once I did that. In the 10P files on Pilkguns theres a link that has dissasembly instructions.

I have only used oil in moving joints, never in the piston.
My personal choice for pellets is Vogel Yellow 4.49 or Finale Match 4.5.
In order of best shooting grouping from a sand bag here is a list of my results, almost no difference among the first six: Vogel Yellow 4.49; FinaleMatch 4.5;Vogel Green 4.5; R-10 Riffle; R-10 Pistol; RWS Yellow; Vogel Green 4.51; Vogel Yellow 4.50; Diablo 4.5; Diabolo 4.49; Vogel 4.48.
Most pellets are done in batches and different lots can give different results, but I believe that most wadcutters of the right size, as to optimize the lands and grooves of your gun's riffling will bring you the best results.
The most I have advanced regarding accuracy, was due to in order of impact: reading about shooting and discovering among many other things the art of griping, learning to use an iris, learning to concentrate and relax, learn to focus on the front sights, learn the mental image of a ten and then repeat it. The key word is keep learning in my experience, I don't apply that verb to pellets.

super lube on the piston seal , 2 drops of a syn oil in the valve system every 2k rds, oil on pivots only never ever charge the gun and fire with out a pellet in the chamber it will kill the piston seal on that very shot.

BSSC wrote: never ever charge the gun and fire with out a pellet in the chamber it will kill the piston seal on that very shot.

That's certainly true for spring-piston (SP) guns, and Scott P. has posted pictures of a burned up piston seal in a single stroke pneumatic (SSP). However, there's something that doesn't make sense to me here. In the SP gun, the flash of heat is generated after the trigger is pulled, when the released piston rapidly compresses the air in the chamber generating heat. Without a pellet in the chamber trapping air to cushion the piston's deceleration, the piston/seal slams into the end of the chamber causing damage.

However, in the SSP the heat would be generated on the compression stroke, before the trigger is pulled. Once the air is compressed (generating the heat), releasing the compressed air on firing should actually cool the piston and gun. Therefore, I don't see why it should matter whether there is a pellet in the barrel or nothing. It just seems to me more logical that a burned up piston seal in a SSP must have been caused on the compression stroke, and not by firing without a pellet.

Am I wrong? If so, why?

FredB

and third, pump with two or three mini-strokes, rather than one difficult stroke.

Not possible. The cocking lever has to be pulled all the way open and closed in one stroke. Opening it again will release all the compressed air.

OK. Just got my IZZY. The Air Venturi manual i downloaded from Pyramidair manual says oil it every 500 shots using a "high flash point oil". Is Pellgun oil consider high flash point?

And what about bore cleaning? Are those fiber cleaning pellets any good? if yes do you fire them clean or with some type of cleaner/oil on them?

Thanks.

Ron

I am unable to find Pell Gun oil at any of the gun shops or retail outlets in the St. Louis area. I would appreciate a brand name or two of silicone oil and silicone grease. Thanks
Tom

I got Gamo pellet gun oil at Gander Mountain. I would assume that it is OK to use. Am I correct?

I also picked up some Crossman Match pellets. Very dirty. My hands got filthy in a hurry. I don't think I'll get them again in the future.

How often to clean the bore of the barrel? There is no gun powder here so I am assuming a cotton patch will be sufficient. Is that correct?

If I think it needs a cleaning, I just break the tips off Q-Tips and shoot them into the trash. Don't use solvent.

It must work because they look pretty dirty.

I'm surprised about the Crosman pellets (made in USA) because I found them to be excellent. I shot my first "clean" (ten ten's) with them.

It does not burn up the seal but cuts a hole in it it actually core drills it in this guns design heat is not a factor at all in SSP match guns you can not possibly ever charge and shoot it that fast.

FredB wrote:

BSSC wrote: never ever charge the gun and fire with out a pellet in the chamber it will kill the piston seal on that very shot.

That's certainly true for spring-piston (SP) guns, and Scott P. has posted pictures of a burned up piston seal in a single stroke pneumatic (SSP). However, there's something that doesn't make sense to me here. In the SP gun, the flash of heat is generated after the trigger is pulled, when the released piston rapidly compresses the air in the chamber generating heat. Without a pellet in the chamber trapping air to cushion the piston's deceleration, the piston/seal slams into the end of the chamber causing damage.

However, in the SSP the heat would be generated on the compression stroke, before the trigger is pulled. Once the air is compressed (generating the heat), releasing the compressed air on firing should actually cool the piston and gun. Therefore, I don't see why it should matter whether there is a pellet in the barrel or nothing. It just seems to me more logical that a burned up piston seal in a SSP must have been caused on the compression stroke, and not by firing without a pellet.

Am I wrong? If so, why?

FredB

Horsefeathers!

Core drills?

What the hey?

The piston seal holds the same pressure, pellet or no pellet.

The valve seal passes the same air at the same pressure, pellet or none.

The breech seals see less pressure with no pellet, so what the devil are you talking about?

I've dryfired my 46M Izzy, cocked with pressure, 4-5 thousand times with no loss of accuracy.. when dryfiring a lot, oil it the same as shooting pellets, about every can of pellets/500 dryfires, a couple of drops of pellgun oil into the valve under the breech, and a drop of so on the cocked open piston seal. oil the cocking pivots when they look dry, doesn't take much there... the Izzy doesn't need high priced pellets for accuracy, suggest staying away from hardware store pellets, order from one of the bigger airgun shops, check prices, and you will get pellets that are "fresh" rather than sitting on a shelf oxidizing. and the Izzy will definitely outshoot your shooting until your scores reach 560+, it has an accurate barrel, leastways, mine is...I put the indicator holes in my targets exactly where I aim and shoot (big smile here!)

Why dryfire the Izzy with pressure?
You can just pull back the plastic arm and cock the trigger without pumping air into the cylinder to do "silent" dryfire.

I tend to forget leaving the breech open to save the gasket on mine, but haven't had to replace it yet. So I still have all the spares that came with the gun. Seems the Russians are used to selling guns to people who live far away from the service shops, so they provide what you need to do basic maintenance yourself.

howdy,
when setting the trigger for dryfire in the manner you describe, "silent dryfire", the trigger pull does not include all the trigger assembly; it does not utilize the valve, hammer, springs, motions and loads. My personal preference for dryfire training, is with the trigger set under pressure. This trains me to the techniques that I use dryfire for, training myself to use the proper sight picture hold, and correct trigger release.

For a new IZH-46M, is it necessary to disassemble the piston to remove all of the original factory grease and then put in silicone or moly grease?

Or shoot a few hundred rounds and then do the change?

kevinweiho wrote:For a new IZH-46M, is it necessary to disassemble the piston to remove all of the original factory grease and then put in silicone or moly grease?

Or shoot a few hundred rounds and then do the change?

I just shoot it without pellet (5 times); then clean the bore; Then you're good to go with your chosen pellet.

I have my problem though with my sight adjustment.. When I adjusted the elevation down, I have to adjust first the windage to the right, otherwise I can't turn the elevation knob down; then my shot obviously goes to the right; then I adjust the blade to go back right on the black.

Is this the right way to adjust the Izzy?

Thanks,

bingd