TargetTalk

Hi Shooters, if you only use your AP every 3 -4 weeks do you remove the cylinders from the gun to relieve the pressure?

Thanks, John

I did this search a few weeks ago. It seems to be a good topic to which there is no consensus. Generally it seems that most say to leave it attached unless it's going to be unused for more than a couple of months.

My pistol manufacturer stated that after shooting, the correct procedure was to unscrew the cylinder enough to release the valve, then work the loading arm and pull the trigger, doing this several times to discharge the remaining pressure in the PCV . This removes pressure from the seals within the gun while not being used. Not rocket science...just makes plain, old fashioned sense.

Makes sense, but have to admit I seldom do it on guns without suspected air leaks. Maybe I'll make it a habit from now on. Have to think about it though, since unscrewing the cylinder causes wear on the O-ring.

I've also seen C-shaped plastic disks made for slipping between gun and cylinder to steady the connection so you don't risk breaking or damaging the thread. Seems like a good idea.

I try to remember to keep the loading gate open during storage to avoid deforming this seal.

jak10x1 wrote:Hi Shooters, if you only use your AP every 3 -4 weeks do you remove the cylinders from the gun to relieve the pressure?

Thanks, John

If you just think about normal use, you usually unscrew the cylinder every few days to refill it anyway. And my range requires that we unscrew the cylinders before coming off the line and casing the firearm.

My view would be that you are probably better off keeping the pressure off the seals if you are not using it. But that's just my opinion.

I leave my cylinder in place on my Morini. I don't don't have a scientific reason for this. Just lazy I suppose. I bought my 162EI used about 8 years ago. I haven't had any problems with it that I'd associate with leaving the cylinder on for months at a time. Now for that loose nut behind the trigger...

If you unscrew the cylinder be sure to unscrew it completely before you screw it in again or else you may damage the o-ring.

since unscrewing the cylinder causes wear on the O-ring.

Have to think about it though, since unscrewing the cylinder causes wear on the O-ring.

Don't think too long, or worry unecessarily, as the o rings cost approx 50 cents each, and I replace them as a matter of routine every year or so......takes 1 minute.

Does anyone have good directions for the replacement of the seals on the FWB 2 and refurbishment of the cylinders? What grease, if any, should be used on the cylinder valves? I have not shot mine in 20 years and would like to return to competition.

feinwerk wrote:What grease, if any, should be used . . . ?

I bought a tube of this almost 30 years ago and I still have it. A little goes a long way. It didn't cost nearly as much then. Maybe there's something cheaper.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/N ... c+Silicone

I've also used this:

http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Motor ... rease.aspx

That tube will likely last 500 years. ;)

I have tried synthetic gun oil and it did not work well. No harm done but it didn't seem to actually lubricate anything.

I believe the correct lubricant for both CO2 and compressed air seals is silicone grease.

deadeyedick wrote:I believe the correct lubricant for both CO2 and compressed air seals is silicone grease.

Agreed. That's what this is:

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/N ... c+Silicone

One (maybe slight) benefit is you can get it by walking into any local NAPA auto parts store instead of ordering away and waiting for it. :)

Occurs to me that you can also get some at any good dive shop. Ask for Nitrox compatible grease.

deadeyedick wrote:My pistol manufacturer stated that after shooting, the correct procedure was to unscrew the cylinder enough to release the valve, then work the loading arm and pull the trigger, doing this several times to discharge the remaining pressure in the PCV . This removes pressure from the seals within the gun while not being used. Not rocket science...just makes plain, old fashioned sense.

Same: for Steyr and Anschutz LP@, manufacturer recommend to unscrew the cylinder till the compressed air escape. Anschutz deliver the pistol with a C shaped orange plastic ring to insert between the cylinder and the pistol during storage/transport, since LP10 and LP@ are the same pistol, this C shape ring fits also for the LP10. No recommendation to load and pull the trigger for Steyr design: as soon as the cylinder is removed there is no compressed air remaining in the pistol.

I keep hearing about those c-rings... can anyone give me the thickness specifications? I was thinking I might machine one to see how it works.

Oz wrote:I keep hearing about those c-rings... can anyone give me the thickness specifications? I was thinking I might machine one to see how it works.

The Anschutz is 4mm thick and of course fits also for Steyr LP10, LP2, LP50, LP1, LP5 PCP. Any kind of 4mm thick plastic will do the job.

jipe wrote:

Oz wrote:I keep hearing about those c-rings... can anyone give me the thickness specifications? I was thinking I might machine one to see how it works.

The Anschutz is 4mm thick and of course fits also for Steyr LP10, LP2, LP50, LP1, LP5 PCP. Any kind of 4mm thick plastic will do the job.

I could never really work out the point of them, and as Steyr don't supply them with their brand of pistol I presume that they couldn't either.

If you want to loosen the cylinder before putting it away then fine. Unless however your storage/transport arrangement does not support the loosened cylinder, why would you want to bother with the spacer.

I probably am just being gutless, but I would like to get a direction sheet for replacemnt of the FWB Model 2 seals in the pistol and in the cylinders.

The process probably is very easy, but I would like to do it right the first time. I am a firm believer in RFM.

I just got done with the same thing-every thing that I needed I got from -Marksman Products @ 5482 Argosy Dr . Huntington Beach ca 92649.phone 1-714=898-7535 they sent me a schematical drewing with the parts numbers ,so you can order the ones that you need. you can also call them and describe what you need and they are very good at getting the right thing to you. good luck.