TargetTalk

If someone could suggest a method to disable this pesky appendage please let us know.

�� 3.4 .22 caliber Pistol or Revolver...
...All standard safety features of the gun must operate properly.

Lammy1000 wrote:If someone could suggest a method to disable this pesky appendage please let us know.

Here are some pictures.

BTW, same rule on safety devices applies to NRA Bullseye matches

Thank you for taking the time to post these pics. Are you essentially using a piece of wood to lock the safety forward? What is the bolt used for in pic 2?

These pics also demonstrate the correct position of the second sear spring which broke on mine and I have since replaced it, installing it incorrectly...back to the bench.

I didn't take these pictures. Got them off the web several years ago. I think the bolt in #2 is simply used to point out the grip safety. Yes, the author is using a piece of wood to lock the safety. On my IZH the grip safety is pinned and the manual safety has been removed.

My third-hand(?) IZH came to me with the grip safety disabled, so I haven't got first-hand experience of doing this job, however, it looks pretty clear...

Do you have an instruction book and exploded parts diagram? I downloaded one from somewhere - sorry, can't remember URL, but if I found it easily, so can anyone. Numbers following refer to the downloaded diag.

From inspection of my IZH and the diagram, the grip safety lever #41 has an upwards-facing hook on its rear end, which engages with the second sear, preventing its rearward movement when the trigger bar #29 tries to push the second sear #43 backwards. The grip safety is biassed to engage the second sear by a little coil spring #40. The grip safety pivots on pin # 39. The right hand end of pin #39 is, I assume, accessible by removing cover plate #32, by removing screw #31.

All that seems to be necessary is to push out the pin and remove the grip safety lever and its spring. These have been removed on my IZH. I would expect that the sear engagement screw will need to be re-adjusted, as per instructions. This is the screw on the left side of the frame, pointing upwards and backwards, bearing on the left end of the second sear. Take care with this adjustment, less you inadvertently create a machine-gun!

Oh, Lammy1000, I'm getting forgetful...

Re your other post: spares included with my IZH were a firing pin, recoil spring, hammer spring, extractor, extractor plunger, second sear and second sear spring, so I guess the factory expect all of these to wear or fail. Rather strange, however, that an apparently lightly-stressed second sear spring should be failure-prone. I suppose these pistols are not made from the best materials, as evidenced by the rate of deformation / wear / peening of the breech face and breech block. Not up to Hammerli quality, but they're lovely to shoot, aren't they?

Shooting Kiwi wrote:Do you have an instruction book and exploded parts diagram? I downloaded one from somewhere - sorry, can't remember URL, but if I found it easily, so can anyone.

http://www.baikalinc.ru/res_en/0_value_3684_192.pdf

You're fortunate those replacement parts were included with your pistol. Which parts have actually needed replacement and ~how many rounds fired? My IZH35 was purchased in 2002 and has ~2500 rounds and the second sear spring failed. I must confess that recently my shooting has been with air until I join a shooting range. Thanks to all who have posted info.

Lammy100 asked:

Which parts have actually needed replacement and ~how many rounds fired?

I regret I don't know, since I'm the pistol's third owner, however I doubt that there have been any replacements and I'd expect many thousand rounds.

Fred Mannis wrote:I didn't take these pictures. Got them off the web several years ago. I think the bolt in #2 is simply used to point out the grip safety. Yes, the author is using a piece of wood to lock the safety. On my IZH the grip safety is pinned and the manual safety has been removed.

I nearly forgot I took those photos. The "bolt" was the cleaning rod. it was pushing the grip safety in all the way to show it's maximum travel.

Full album:
http://news.webshots.com/slideshow/6597 ... KnavuH7Y9r

All good info. Thanks.

I have disabled the the grip safety by turning the sear adjustment screw in (CW) and no doubling has occurred (yet). Peter Brunelli's site alluded to this. There still exists a bit of creep and a need for slightly lighter pull, but I will keep playing with it. Any tips would be appreciated.

Keep in mind that this pistol was designed for rapid fire, so the trigger will never be crisp. I like the slight roll for slow fire as well as sustained fire.

I try not to be too fussy with triggers...can't afford to be. When pistol was new I had to remove material from the bolt face to stop doubling. Thanks to this site I have learned of the o-ring mod behind front sight. Is this primarily to prevent doubling or to cushion reciprocating parts?

Just did a search and want to say my gun, when originally purchased in 2002, was slam firing the entire magazine with Federal ammo due to thick rim dimension. I then removed material from the bolt face and switched to CCI std velocity which has cured slam firing/doubling. Should I consider adding the o-ring? I must admit my concern with o-ring mod is pistol will be firing when bolt is not in the fully seated position?

Lammy1000 wrote:I try not to be too fussy with triggers...can't afford to be. When pistol was new I had to remove material from the bolt face to stop doubling. Thanks to this site I have learned of the o-ring mod behind front sight. Is this primarily to prevent doubling or to cushion reciprocating parts?

Both. I removed material from the boltface a few times and deepened the rim recess quite a bit. The O ring gives back some of the overall length from the rifling to the rim recess. I also don't use CCI anymore in it. Too long. My Pardini mags didn't like length of CCI at all. Then found out most, if not all European ammo works fine in the IZH without doubling with the O ring.
The IZH headspaces on the rim, no case in the chamber and metal slams into metal. Therefore, the O ring.
Your results may vary depending on how much metal was removed from the boltface. Meaning thickness(compressed) of O ring varies accordingly.

The only blow out I had was way before I used the O ring, maybe before I first deepend the recess too. Late 60's vintage Eley Match black box ammo. Did it in my IZH and a friend's IZH.