TargetTalk

I used several 500W halogen work lights to illuminate indoor target and I can't make the lightbulbs last for any reasonable amount of time. The light fixture itself doesn't last too long either, about a year. How do you make these last? Will removing the glass help?

Leokur wrote:I used several 500W halogen work lights to illuminate indoor target and I can't make the lightbulbs last for any reasonable amount of time. The light fixture itself doesn't last too long either, about a year. How do you make these last? Will removing the glass help?

We get exactly the same in our club. We've resorted to 300w bulbs in an attempt to extend their life. It gives out slightly less light but add another unit and it should be pretty much the same.

Rob.

It's crazy, isn't it?

I wanted to shoot at night (it's winter here!), so I bought one of these things, only to find a little note included saying that the bulb fitted was 'for testing purposes only', and that it wasn't guaranteed. It duly failed on the first shot, on the range in the gathering gloom. Murphy dictated that, on that occasion, I had left the spare bulbs at home!

What sort of craziness is this? China Inc. is gobbling up the world's resources, creating this kind of junk that they cynically sell, knowing it won't last ten minutes! What's worse is that we stupidly buy it! However, on a brighter note, I've had long life from these things, but only by using recognised brands of bulbs (which, of course, might be made in the Orient, somewhere).

These days, I scrutinise everything and put it back if I find it comes from unknown or dubious sources, but it's a bit like cutting off your nose to spite your face (old English saying...).

The certainly are garbage but do make sure not to move the light while it is under power. Set it in place first and do not move until it has cooled somewhat.

Did anyone try using it without the glass? I know the manual says not to do it, but in our application we are not looking directly at the light. It will run cooler with the air allowed to circulate. I bought my last unit and will give this a try.

Generally halogen lamps should never be used without a glass cover. The reason is that they run at high pressure and can explode

I've always been told not to touch the bulb when putting them in. Oil from your hands will cause a short life span. Use a rag to install them.

I would think that not using the glass would allow bugs to get to the bulb. If oil from fingers isn't good then surely cooked bugs won't help.

We use the lights at matches and at practice. Last weekend at a match, I used lights with old bulbs from practice. They ran 8-5 for two days with no failures. Of coure, I had two extra fixtures just in case.

I have 500W fixtures w/300W bulbs on our range .... suspended on an overhead track.

Went to 300W to reduce heat ... in over 3 years have only had two bulbs to replace. (10 lane range w/a lamp per lane)

I clean the faceplates about once a year or so

Sam is correct, the oil from your fingers reduces the life. Usually they are wrapped in a foam or clean paper sleeve in the replacement bulb box ... use that or a kleenex to handle the bubble pack bulbs.

I have one fixture that does not have a glass front (the fumble fingered moron (hmmmmm.... who could that be) installing the bulb tried to do a three handed job w/ only two and dropped it from 10 feet). Since it is facing away from the shooters I've never worried.

Them tempered glass plates sure do make a whole bunch of tiny pieces when you drop them......

I used to use the Halogen fixtures at a local fair where I had a train stand. We were charged for electricity based on each bulb and the Halogen 500 watts were cheaper. However, after two seasons and 5 bulbs I decided it wasn't economical after all. I actually had better and more even lighting with incandescsant.

I bought 11 watt Compact Fluorescent Light {CFL} bulbs to try in my home range. We use them in our house except these are flood light versions, however, they do have to be close to the target. Too close for a range with shooters of less ablility. They take a few minutes to get to full power.
Ben

The handling comments are 100% important.

However, it's been my experience that once these lights are hot and running the filiment is extremely delicate. We used to have them in our range - but they were a constant source of maintenance. I think the concussion from pistols, PPC -Action etc- as well as vibration from the air handling system cause them to vibrate. And, the contact points are easily oxidized - causing resistance in the circuit.

In contrast, we have two portable (halogen) floor lights that we only use for smallbore and air rifle - these lamps are RARELY replaced. They are not moved around until they are cooler, and they rest on a solid concrete floor.

We've slowly converted to flourescents - much much higher reliability, much lower energy bills. Of course, you will have to use more of them to get an equivalnet amt of lux on the target - but still cheaper, and more reliable.

Dean Peterson wrote:The handling comments are 100% important.

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In contrast, we have two portable (halogen) floor lights that we only use for smallbore and air rifle - these lamps are RARELY replaced. They are not moved around until they are cooler, and they rest on a solid concrete floor.

I agree but in my range we never move them, I install the bulbs using a clean cloth and they still blow at frequent intervals. We even bought supposedly better units to try and overcome the problem but to no avail. Thus far the 300w bulb in one of the units has outlived the 500w bulbs by a factor of 4 or 5 (and ongoing). I really think the heat output of the 500's just makes them too fragile / brittle and that turning them off and on is enough to make them blow after a short amount of use.

We'll be switching to more 300w bulbs as and when the 500's blow, and consider adding extra lamps if need be to boost overall light levels.

Rob.

I bought a $12 halogen from Home Depot that has been working quite well for some time. I would not move it when it was plugged in or very hot since the bulb will break. It really helps the poor lighting we have at our indoor range.

Also, the glass front lens has a sticker - says it filters UV light from the halogen. I would DEFINATELY keep the front lens on the light!

Kiwi - summer here, and the huge air handlers installed at our range to move noxious fumes have bring in outside air and push it downrange and then back up to an exhaust stack. In the meatime, no air conditioning, no heat. If it is 5C outside, it's 5C inside, too. If it is 38C outside...you understand. It makes shooting quite interesting. The specific line where we shoot presently has a broken air handler, so we don't even have the luxury of a breeze. We've had to find innovative ways to keep from sliding all over our cheek pieces due to sweat, and have to take frequent off-line breaks for water. It could only be worse if we had direct sunlight with no shade...but then at least we could finally see the target well!

Hi,
I am not going to mention about halogen lamps, but have a tip for those who are going to shoot or dryfire indoor or nights in homes.
I am using a very small and old slide projector to illuminate my 10m AP target in my house. It is a Minolta mini35 equipped with Rokkor lenses and a 100-watt projector bulb. This projector has a 1/4in femail thread on the bottom and mountalb on standard camera tripods. I made a 1/4in femail threaded hole on a Freeland spotting scope stand's pole and bolted a 1/4in bolt to mount the projector on the Freeland scope stand.
I guess most of you own some projectors in the basement or somewhereelse in your house. If you happen to have a small ones(e.g., 100-400 watts), I would suggest you to use it instead of buying high-power halogen lamps, lamp holders, and stands.
Illumination of my 100-watt projector is 1000Lux(approximately 100 CandlesFeet) if the area of the illumination is set to a foot by a foot.
Slide projectors provide more efficient and even illuminations than convetional halogen lamps without regulation lenses.