TargetTalk

I'm trying to work a deal on a Toz Free Pistol and it looks like I'll need a Grip and screws for it.

Right now I shoot a T/C Contender with a stock grip and shoot betwwen 500 and 515 with that set up. It's not easy, but still better than my S&W 41 in this game.

So, for a new guy in Free Pistol, what brand grip will be a good start. I wear XXL gloves if that makes a difference.

Thanks

ETA Should I be aware of anything on the CDNN guns. Good/Bad

IMO RINK, they are the most flexible on adjustment. contact Larry Carter..........
Neil

I bought RINK grips for my TOZ 35M. Being a woman I have short fingers. The RINKs allow my hand to go in much further than the Morinis allowing me much more finger on the trigger. My hand size was between Small and Extra Samll and I bought the XS.

Also take a look at Dennis Marschal's Toz 35 grips - http://marschalgrips.com/?content=Match_grips-models ( bottom of the page ). I have a set and the quality is very good + you can't beat the price.

As for the CDNN Toz 35s, both that I'd purchased function but one is missing a set screw for the trigger adjustment. Their rating seems to be based almost exclusively on cosmetics. If you do a search on this forum, you'll find a few threads discussing the inventory they've been selling. These were club or team guns, so they have some wear, but it's also apparent that someone had maintained them. For instance one of mine has relatively new parts though you wouldn't assume this by looking at it.

dlb wrote:Also take a look at Dennis Marschal's Toz 35 grips - http://marschalgrips.com/?content=Match_grips-models ( bottom of the page ). I have a set and the quality is very good + you can't beat the price.

As for the CDNN Toz 35s, both that I'd purchased function but one is missing a set screw for the trigger adjustment. Their rating seems to be based almost exclusively on cosmetics. If you do a search on this forum, you'll find a few threads discussing the inventory they've been selling. These were club or team guns, so they have some wear, but it's also apparent that someone had maintained them. For instance one of mine has relatively new parts though you wouldn't assume this by looking at it.

Those grips look good, too bad they don't make them for S&W 41s or IZH46Ms.

I hope the Toz I get doesn't have any major problems. I will need a couple grip screws for it though. The main thing for me is the trigger and balance. My T/C is so nose heavy it wears me out after 30 shots.

Thanks for the link and another option.

Here's a "heads-up" on dealing with CDNN. As always with these surplus dealers, it's buyer beware.

I received a TOZ from them a few weeks ago. Overall, it looks like it is in really nice shape, except for rust on the flat springs in the trigger group, which were never blued. I can't wait to try it out, but I think I am going to have to get into yoga to get my wrist to bend like that.

Anyway, when I received it I printed out a manual from the internet and proceeded to try to disassemble and totally clean and lube it. I noticed that the breech pivot pin was standing proud almost 2 mm on the left side. It wasn't inserted all the way. It didn't protrude through the frame on the right side.

It was also frozen in place and I eventually bent a Starret pin punch trying to free it.

Rather than fix it myself I called CDNN and they agreed to swap it for another, so I soaked it with Kroil and sent it back after getting a return authorization. (if you can't get Kroil try oil of wintergreen, which is the best penetrating oil there is - it just smells funny)

I got the TOZ back a few days ago. They didn't fix it or swap it.

I called them and was told that the "handyman that works on guns" looked at it and said it was OK. Plus they examined 4 more which were all the same.

It wasn't OK. The breech flopping around in the frame and rubbing the blueing off on one side prolly wasn't promoting consistent lock up and I told them that. If the pin is long enough to go all the way through both sides of the frame, and there is a hole for it, it prolly should be inserted through both sides.

They said they would accept a return for a refund, but I would have been out almost a hundred bucks because of shipping costs and commission to the local transfer dealer.

After a few days more soaking with Kroil I managed to get the pin out. I could have machined it out and made a new one from a gauge pin, but that would have been a last resort.

I'm only out about 12 dollars for the extra trip to Texas, so no damage done.

Good Luck,

RES