TargetTalk

Does any one have an opinion on upgrading from a Morini 162E to the newer model 162EI.

What are the differences between them?

Is one model better than the other?

Any other comments

Thanks

I did just that last year.

My old 1622E began experiencing some wear & tear on some parts so I decided to keep it as a backup and purchase a new 162EI.

The biggest difference on my two guns is that the older gun uses the Varta "Beer Keg" battery and the new gun uses AAAs.

Also, the grips (ostensibly the same size) have very different dimensions (at least until Mr. Dremel and Mr. Bondo made an appearance). The old grip was "fatter" with a voluminous well-rounded palm swell, and the new grip is thinner with a somewhat smaller, sharper palm swell.

And the new gun is full of tens whereas the old gun has had most of the tens shot out of it . . . =8^)

Hi Steve,

which parts began to wear out? I have the older model too and shooting only approx 2000 rounds / year. I also was planning to upgrade, but at least the standard grip felt so different in 162 EI that I thought it's not worth the work of rebuilding the grip. -TPE

My old 162 E began experiencing some wear & tear on some parts...

The loading lever began to feel "rough" and eventually got harder and harder to manipulate. Pilkguns fixed it up quickly and totally; but you know how it goes- it just hasn't "felt right" since. And I swear it is beginning to feel rough again . . .

Steve

Steve Swartz wrote:I did just that last year.

My old 1622E began experiencing some wear & tear on some parts so I decided to keep it as a backup and purchase a new 162EI.

And the new gun is full of tens whereas the old gun has had most of the tens shot out of it . . . =8^)

Thanks for your comments Steve the reason you changed are the same I had in my head I have been toying with the idea for a few weeks now and think its time for an up grade and keep the old one for a backup.

Hi!

I have the CM162E and for the time it is I who foul up the shooting.. :-)

The CM162IE has the compensator, and it can be bought seperat, costing somwhere in the range of $150.

To upgrade the gun to exchangeble air-sylinders cost about $500 more (here in Norway) and I just haven't seen the point in doing so, as the cylinder is good for 150 shots as it is.... (manual says 200 though)

Steve Swartz wrote:The loading lever began to feel "rough" and eventually got harder and harder to manipulate. Pilkguns fixed it up quickly and totally; but you know how it goes- it just hasn't "felt right" since. And I swear it is beginning to feel rough again . . .

Steve

Steve, Take off the grips, and with a toothpick, put a bit of Lubriplate, or if you can get it, a high pressure grease, into the slot that cams the pin that moves the bolt forward and back. DON"T OVERDO IT. I also mix some Molybdenum disulphide (MoS2) powder (Belray Molylube 16 Microfine) with the grease, which imbeds itself (the molybdenum) into the steel, giving a lasting, hard, sliding surface. This isn't necessary, but I like to use it for sliding action parts. I also put some MoS2 (you can substitute powdered graphite), onto the bolt where it enters the frame as the action is opened. This will give you a smooth working action, and prevent any galling.

Paul