TargetTalk

I purchased a new Pardini .32 HPE (electronic) a few weeks ago. Two new batteries (Duracell AAA) were inserted into the grip, and a few test pulls of the trigger were performed. Everything was ok.

And the switch was then turned OFF (away from red paint spot)!
I then went for a vacation and the gun has been stored unused, with batteries in situ)

Yesterday, at the range, i would proudly show my HPE to the club members.
But the gun would not fire! More precisely: there was no trigger pull. Measuring of the voltage of the batteries showed they were "flat" (drained).

I was told by the clerk in the shop the new batteries would last for "about 5000 shots (triggerpulls)".

I was a bit disappointed when my batteries simply drained from a few weeks of storage in the gun, switch definitely turned off.

The serial number of my gun is under 100. Is is a "lefty-version", delivered from the Pardini factory to the shop in january 2006.

The "electronic unit" shows the lettering 700 . Is this the latest improved version?

Is my guns electonic unit a "battery drainer"? Rumors say the problems of rapid battery drainage was cured last year.
What is the truth?
Do I have to remove the batteries from the gun after very shooting session to avoid "storage draining" of the batteries?

And: how do I now when there is due time to replace batteries? Do I have to put in fresh batteries prior to any match, to avoid failure?

I believe that the latest version of the electronics module, or the one that cured the battery life problem anyway, is number 760. This was released in the second half of 2005 (Septemberish).

Oh, a new member of the club of people-who-didn't-check-out-targettalk-before-buying-a-pistol... Get yourself a voltmeter and try to find out at which voltage your electronics stop to work. Some of them will work even with 2.7 volts, others switch off at 2.9 - those are usually exchanged on warranty. There are still brand new pistols coming out (seen last month) that won't do 100 shots on two new batteries. Put in new batteries before every competition and hope for the best. Buy shares in your favorite battery manufacturer - you will singlehandedly increase their stock value. Get yourself a spare electronics module and practice switching them during competition. Cut off the grip screw to the minimum needed, or you will one day turn it in 1mm too much (the grip is pretty soft, so the screw goes in further every time) and your electronics are scrap. Buy a good backup pistol (mechanical) that you can switch to. Start praying to the gods of electronics (who's that anyway?). Sacrificial offerings may help, too.

Tycho wrote:Oh, a new member of the club of people-who-didn't-check-out-targettalk-before-buying-a-pistol... Get yourself a voltmeter and try to find out at which voltage your electronics stop to work. Some of them will work even with 2.7 volts, others switch off at 2.9 - those are usually exchanged on warranty. There are still brand new pistols coming out (seen last month) that won't do 100 shots on two new batteries. Put in new batteries before every competition and hope for the best. Buy shares in your favorite battery manufacturer - you will singlehandedly increase their stock value. Get yourself a spare electronics module and practice switching them during competition. Cut off the grip screw to the minimum needed, or you will one day turn it in 1mm too much (the grip is pretty soft, so the screw goes in further every time) and your electronics are scrap. Buy a good backup pistol (mechanical) that you can switch to. Start praying to the gods of electronics (who's that anyway?). Sacrificial offerings may help, too.

uhhh... y-eahh... right...

or just contact Pardini, talk to Alberto, they are quite good with service.

I have a SP1, and change batteries every 3-5 months. The only time it had trouble firing was when I screwed up the trigger settings (the post travel setting), but other than that, it works fine.

I do have a mechanical SP for backup, but the only time I've had to use it was to swap out the recoil spring to the SP1 because it was too new and very stiff for the ammo I was using.

-trinity

Do what I did with my electro-flop Pardini.

Waste months sending 4 replacement modules backwards and forwards for no result.

Travel to international competition and borrow someone elses pistol 'cause your own one doesn't work.

Then get P***ed off and return it to factory for replacement with mechanical one (that works).

Alternatively go straight to the last step!

As far as I know the new module electronics is fine - I hope so otherwise my SP 1 will be flat when I get to it again. As David says there was a 760 series that cured the problem and I think there has been an even newer series released.

Rob.

Took apart a brand new SP-E today. Never stopped laughing. 90% of that trigger is identical to the °§¢! they built into the GPE. Only one single problem solved (and I'm still not sure how that is going to work over a longer time), the rest as bad es ever. I'll never understand why they didn't licence the Morini electronics (you think Schumann used a Pardini electronic in his first GP-"E"?). Stay mechanic or (if .22 is enough for you) get a 102E running.

Inspecting the lettering of the electronic unit of my .32 HPE more closely: It reads "Cat 7?0 L.

The 2. digit is difficult to read, even with a magnifying glass. Appears the 2. digit originated as a "0", but is has been stamped over to read "6" og "8".

Oh, yes, I have been reading TT about Pardini El-pistols, but thought the problems were solved. I (or Pardini?) was wrong.

I have just bought 8 (yes, eight) new Panasonic batteries.

BTW, I will shorten that grip screw a couple of millimeters.
Thanks for this advice!

Tycho, you are a bit negative about Pardini electronic triggers, right... :-)

I will probably get an electronic HP or SP in near future. I really like its dry fiering abillity - very good för dry-duello training on my Scatt. But I will keep my manual pardinis just in case

Pardiniowner, please keep us updated! I'm sure this can be fixed.

/Axel

btw, I would really like to see some pictures of the electronic module, battery installation in grip etc. It would be very nice! :-)

Just imagine the worst possible solution for a problem already perfectly solved... and you're there :-)