TargetTalk

One LP10 I've bought, #729110, came with a 'brutal' :-) trigger. That is, the minimum second stage weight of pull is around 150 grams, when the sear engagement is normally set (I mean the original factory sear engagement setting, which seems to be between 70° and 80° going anticlockwise, from the 'no engagement' point). But the 'brutal' feeling comes more from the sear engagement itself than from the weight of pull. Essentially, the 'feeling' does not change substantially if you tune the sear engagement, i.e. making it shorter, and even much much shorter than the factory setting.

On the contrary another LP10, #730014, came with a very nice trigger, with exactly the same feeling, and exactly the same tuning possibilities of the old LP1. That is, you can set the minimum second stage weight of pull at 100 grams (in the original setting of sear engagement), and even much much less if you prefer. This means that the spring of the second stage weight is weaker and/or that the screw of the second stage weight is different. It is also well possible to modulate substantially the 'feeling', turning the sear engagement screw up or down. (In a specific position of the sear engagement screw, i.e. engagement very short, it is also possible to remove any kind of 'after travel collapse', exactly like in the old LP1).

Did someone else also noticed such differences in the trigger mechanisms of Steyr LP10?

s.

I don't know if it's common or not - but the obvious solution would be to get a decent gunsmith to smooth it off so that it was less brutal. My LP10 feels pretty smooth to me but I've only ever shot that one LP10.

Rob.

Rob, thanks.
I'm also considering another possibility: to change those two pieces, after all they are not so expensive (I suppose).
But the problem still remains: why the two triggers are so different.
I know that LP10 and LP1 have different triggers.
I also know that many shooters prefer the old trigger, that is the LP1.
Maybe Steyr has already returned to the old LP1 trigger? (That would explain the difference between my old and new LP10).
Regards,
s.

Scerir,

If you do a search, you may be able to find a previous thread in which Mark Briggs describes the differences very precisely. In summary, he says that all the trigger parts are identical between LP-1 and LP-10, but that the piston compensator in the LP-10 causes the geometry of the way some parts fit in the frame to differ, and this alters the feel. He seems to have done a great deal of research and measurement on this topic. Before you make any changes, you might want to consult with him.

HTH,
FredB

just out of curiosity, what color is 729110?

I have 729116

and it looks like this:



and the trigger is great. or at least i think it is.... maybe i'm not completely experienced, i've never tried an LP1, it is different than my Morini.

last year several of us were shooting airgun on the same day (very rare occurance) and I was admiring the Morini my friend (anonjohn) bought from a guy in Calif i think. the serial number looked familiar, so I looked at my Morini (which came from a guy in FL) and WOW consecutive serial numbers!!!! (both had been originally sold by Pilkington)

Poole
http://arizona.rifleshooting.com

Fred, thanks. Yes maybe I remember those good posts. But the triggers of LP1 and LP10 (at least the old ones) _are_ different. This information comes, directly, from one (Italian) owner of the firm (Steyr), who also was a good pistol shooter. Now I cannot ask him about my problem because he is constantly travelling around the world.
Saluti,
s.

Bill Poole wrote:just out of curiosity, what color is 729110?

Bill: Bingo! Same color as mine.
Maybe yours is ok. But mine is performing
so and so, while the other one (usual black)
is performing much better (the feeling
and the weight of the second stage _is_
different). Did you notice that some top
shooter is using the old frame of the
LP1-air and the new barrel. Why?
Regards,
s.

PS: As for the consecutive serial numbers
of Morini and Steyr, well I must quote
a good philosopher here, who wrote about the
'Coincidentia Oppositorum'. There is some
deep meaning here ;-)

With all due respect, I have to say that the yellow (you might claim gold) Steyr LP10 looks like something a monkey might eat!

scerir wrote:Rob, thanks.
I'm also considering another possibility: to change those two pieces, after all they are not so expensive (I suppose).
But the problem still remains: why the two triggers are so different.
I know that LP10 and LP1 have different triggers.
I also know that many shooters prefer the old trigger, that is the LP1.
Maybe Steyr has already returned to the old LP1 trigger? (That would explain the difference between my old and new LP10).
Regards,
s.

Actually the triggers are the same except the attachment point for one of the spring is different to accomadate the absorber. So they really can't just go back to the LP1 Trigger. There are adjustments that can be made to the spring to make the LP10 feels more like the LP1.

As to the reason why one is better than the other, well they are made by humans and they contain many parts that each have tolerances when you start stacking tolerances funny things can happen.

I have a earlier 2000 LP10 and my trigger is fine so it probably has nothing to do with one being new and one being old, and if its really that bad you probably should have returned it.

Anonymous wrote:With all due respect, I have to say that the yellow (you might claim gold) Steyr LP10 looks like something a monkey might eat!

Guest, dunno if a monkey might eat it. But for sure the first time I went to the range with that 'gold' the guys there were smiling like the Monna Lisa, or like the Gioconda as we call her :-)

Richard H wrote: As to the reason why one is better than the other, well they are made by humans and they contain many parts that each have tolerances when you start stacking tolerances funny things can happen.

Richard, thanks. That seems a reasonable explanation. (I remember well that the trigger of my old Pardini K2-CO2 had an anomalous 'collapse', that is to say that the trigger shoe was moving forward, and not backward, when the shot was breaking!). But let me say that when I turn till the end, anticlockwise, without forcing it, the screw of the spring of the second stage, the screw itself appears to be much longer in the 'new' LP10 (and the weight of the second stage drops).