TargetTalk

My LP10 has dropped down in power - it tears a bit more than punches clean holes. Does anyone know roughly what velocity it should be ? I can't do much at the moment as I have no chrono but I'll have one in the next few days.

Cheers,

Rob.

Rob,
Iv'e found the Combros (UK based) to be perfect for AP's, small and accurate. You will probably need to remove your front sight and use it upside down.
I think a velocity of 500 is a good start point (you'll get about 25 fps difference between light and heavy pellets).
When you get to lower 400's you start tearing targets.
Higher 500's will cost you air.
Start at 500 with your chosen pellet and if you have the patience, vise clamp the pistol and work from there to tighten the group.
Check to make sure the locking grubscrew for the velocity screw has tightened enough to stop the velocity screw from rotating.

Good luck.

I believe the optimal velocity is around 525 fps.

Why did it drop in power? Seals or regulator going?

Cheers guys - Richard, don't know is the simple answer. It slowly dropped about a year ago, was turned up and has done it again. Now I have got the chrono I'll be able to keep a check on it. If it looks like it keeps dropping then I'll get it looked at and serviced. It's probably due for an overhaul since it's never had one and probably shot 30000 pellets or more.

Rob.

Rob,

Did you buy the Combros?

Seems cheap enough - if its effective as well (especially if you can use it without interfacing - I am a Mac user), then maybe its for me?

Mike

Mike S-J wrote:Did you buy the Combros?

Seems cheap enough - if its effective as well (especially if you can use it without interfacing - I am a Mac user), then maybe its for me?

Mike, not wishing to advertise but it's a good choice. Yes, you can use it without interfacing but you have to reset for each shot (very easy to do).

I actually bought a model called a 'chrony'. About twice the price of the combro I think but I may be able to get my shooting club to buy it off me. I wanted something free standing that you shoot through, rather than fix to the gun as we've had problems with those sorts before i.e. they didn't work very often.

Rob.

I note the optimal velocity for the LP 10 is around 525fps. Mine's new - having put about 600 shots through it and today through the chrono.
With geco (6.8gr) the range over 10 shots was 432 - 458fps.
Hobby (7.0gr) 422 - 432fps.
Club 10 (7.0gr) 403 - 424fps.
Match 10 98.2gr) 382 - 395fps.
My CA cylinder was showing about 140 bar.
Should I be concerned it's so low considering the optimal velocity is 525fps? Should I be adjusting the velocity? If so - could someone tell me how this is done - I've searched my manual and there is no mention about an adjustment screw.

John,
From your figures, your probably running about 100 fps slower than factory setting.
BUT, are you sure the chrono is reading right? And are you measuring the speed at the muzzle and not downrange a bit?

John,
I'd return it to get it checked since it's new. It's a simple enough job to turn up the velocity but that might be masking a small problem - if it has dropped down that much from new.

Your geographical location may have an affect, as for example in Canada the velocity is set lower than the norm for their gun law reasons.

Rob.

I'm using the CED Millennium chrono. I checked my IZH-46M which came in 424 - 458fps.
I'm firing from approx 1.8 - 2.0m from the first sensor. [there are two 60cm apart]
Outside and bright sunny conditions. Overcast today but will do another test as soon as the sun shines.
Living in Indonesia and having brought the pistol here from Australia - it's a huge hassle to take it back due to the Oz gun laws - so I was hoping for a small adjustment to fix the problem. I'll report back after the second test.

At last a bright sunny day for my chrono-but alas the results the same as before when testing my LP 10. Precise reporting. With the RWS Club 10 (7.0gr) the 10 shot string produced a high of 427fps and a low of 394fps with an average of 411fps.
RWS Geco (6.8gr) (h) 453fps (l) 422fps: Av: 432fps.
RWS Match 10 (8.2gr) (h) 384fps (l) 361fps: Av: 373fps.
The CA cylinder was at 170 bar. I used it during the day and was able to fire a total of 130 shots finishing at 90 bar. I’m only a 510 – 520 shooter and have no complaints about the accuracy – with the belief that if it’s not in the 9/10 area it’s definitely the shooter not the pistol. It’s a big task to take the pistol back to the dealer. International courier is out due to me being in Indonesia. Between security (chance of it going missing/stolen) and corruption (request for illegitimate release/transit fees) it would be “cheaper” for me to purchase a return ticket and take it myself.($700) Naturally I hoping for a better option. I can’t get hold of the dealer for a couple of days – but will check to see what he says first as I’ve always found them very helpful. Thought I’d post this though – in the event that someone has experienced the same and knows of a “do it yourself” solution.

John,

First of all, there is no hard and fast "optimum velocity" figure that would apply to all guns of a particular model. It is possible - but IMHO a waste of time - to determine the optimum velocity for your individual gun using a specific lot of pellets, by testing from a rest. In general, any velocity in the 470-500 range will work just fine, and some people prefer higher or lower.

That said, the figures you report appear quite low to me - certainly much lower than where my LP 10 is set. Given the hassle and money involved in returning it to the seller, I would suggest that you first adjust the velocity - say to around 480 with 8 grain pellets - and see if it stays at that setting while you enjoy shooting it for a while.

I just assumed that the velocity adjustment procedure for the LP 10 was in the manual, but it is not, nor is it shown in the 10P Files. However it is shown in the manual and the 10P Files for the LP 1, and should be basically the same for the LP 10. From the exploded diagram in the LP 10 manual, you would be turning screw #20 to do the adjustment, in for higher velocity and out for lower. However you will see in the exploded diagram that screw #10 appears to be a set screw which, when tightened, would prevent #20 from turning, so you must loosen #10 first, and then retighten after adjustment. It occurs to me that screw #10 might already be loose on your gun, which might have allowed screw #20 to turn out by vibration, thus lowering the velocity.

While I have not needed to adjust the velocity on my LP 10, I have done so on my LP 1 and a LP 5. It's no big deal.

HTH,
FredB

Another point from the 10P files re LP2, but would apply to all is the following.

PLEASE NOTE: The two countersunk screws on the rear of the casing must always protrude at least 2.5 mm, to assure the velocity screw is clear of the grip.

Dont be too ham-fisted on grubscrew #10. Round off the hex and you'll be in doodoo.

Thank you greatly gentlemen. I'll confirm with the dealer I purchased it from that's he's happy for me to do as suggested and will proceed with caution and take heed of all mentioned. This forum is full of wisdom, sound advice, great attitude and invaluable info.
I will as a matter of interest report back once a few days of testing are done.

My LP 10 is as it should be. Just finished the chrono after doing the adjustment. Interesting – when I examined screw 10 it was extremely loose. Then to see how loose the adjustment screw was [no:20] I first turned it anticlockwise about one quarter of a turn and the screw and surrounding bush actually fell out. I guess they work loose in transit at times. Rob Potter [Potter Firearms on Oz] – who is linked up with our host – and fantastic to deal with - suggested adjusting so with 8.2gr the velocity was in the 460 – 480fps range. The end result: (a series of 10 shots)
RWS Match 10 - 8.2gr: 489(h); 474 (l): Av: 481
RWS Club 10 - 7.0gr: 526 (h); 497 (l): Av: 515
Again – many thanks for the tips and help.

I adjusted my lp 10 from 470 up to 540 but don't see a locking screw just a slot to ajust by.Think it number 19 on the lp 1 pic.Anyone know if there is a locking screw?Someone said screw number 10?Don't see it.Thanks Ron

I spoke to Harry Preston (Steyr UK) yesterday and part of the discussion included velocity adjustments. It seems that there are two locking screws on the LP10, one the outside ‘C’ ring which should be positioned and the other which should be tightened / loosened with a 1.5mm hex key before / after the ‘C’ ring is moved. It is this screw that prevents any creep. It seems that this second screw is what is not always known about and leads to problems. Further the C ring should be positioned correctly before tightnening

Since I am not a trained Styer engineer and this stuff is not in the manual, I wont go into the details of how to do it, I would not want to give bad advice, so please consult to speak to Harry of Scott or you local Steyr rep for precise instructions or have them do it.

Harry did confirm that the velocity should be about 160 m/s


Julian

velocity plays a very crucial role, having very low velocity or very high velocity is sure to give you bad scores. the optimal velocity for steyr lp 10 is around 525 fps or 160mps . ( using finale match blue 7.7 gr pellets)
adjusting the velocity in steyr lp10 is very easy :

1. remove the grip with a 4 mm LN key.
2. remove the front sight if u have combro , fix the combro on the muzzle end, put a plastic rod in the barrel from the muzzle end to check that the path of the pellet travel is lying in the centre of the censor rings. adjust and fix the combro.
in case of using any box type chronograph like chrony, it is not required.
3.take 2-3 shots one by one and record the result.
4.now take a 1.5 mm LN key and a screw driver, look for a screw in the center of a C ring( it is a full ring holding a screw the ring has a cut on it when any sideways presure is applied on the ring it locks the screw) when you see from behind. in line with this C clip on the right side of the pistol there is a small hole which is infact the lock for the C ring, its a 1.5 mm LN screw
5 now the real task---losen the 1.5 mm LN screw 1 1/2 turn by turning anticlockwise. now turn the screw that is in the centre of the C ring in small increments of 2 to 3 minutes in clockwise direction, and tighten the side screw and take few shots, keep repeating the steps until you gete it closer to the 525fps/160mps mark approx.


.*** note the cut on the ring should be either on top or bottom, at 12Oclock or 6Oclock position, other wise the side screw will not press the C ring and the screw wont be locked.

**** after good use of 2-3 years normally the velocity spring needs change, and if the variation from shot to shot is more than 20 fps there may be other problems like the regulator malfunction, worn out O rings, oor simply the mechanism that hits on the valve pin has become sticky, for this please look for a more qualified person.

**** a properly functioning steyr is a superb machine, happy shooting enjoy the sport

mahipal s rathore
INDIA