TargetTalk

I just got a Rink grip for my Pardini SPE and I also have a untouched factory SAM grip for my FP-10. Both these grips need some work before I can really use them. I have wood filler and a dremmel tool, but would someone be able to give me a quick run through of how to do it "properly"? I don't just want to start slapping on filler without a plan. Thanks, Jesse

Flyboy,
I have attached two articles on altering grips by Don Nygord.

I have a Pardini SPE with the original Pardini grips. What do you think of the Rink grips compared to the Pardini?

Fred

Well, my Pardini is still in the mail to me. When I bought it, it came with a small grip, which I knew wouldn't fit, so I just got a rink grip. It fits ok, and I do like the adjustment system, but it doesn't fill my hand like say my CM LP10 grip does. I got it with "Normal" volume, maybe if I had gotten thick it would have helped. I don't foresee too much work, probably just building up the bottom and center palm a bit. Very nice craftsmanship though. I almost feel bad modifying it. Thanks for the articles!

Jesse

Flyboy,

I suggest going out and buying about two bucks worth of Play Dough first. Start building up your grip how you want it using the play dough first and you will be able to figure out what you really want to do before you start working with the wood filler. THe play dough is real easy to remove when you think you are ready.

Practice makes perfect applies to getting the perfect grip too.

F. Paul in Denver

I use a wood filler putty that dries rather than sets to hard. It is soft enough to remove with your fingernail when "hard." I put a blob on the grip roughly where I think it should be thicker, put on a vinyl glove, grip the gun to shape the putty, remove my hand hand (it may help to spray the glove with some wax or WD40 but not a big deal), reshape with a finger to fix any areas that got messed up removing the hand and/or to smooth, let dry, and then use file, fingernail, or whatever to smooth and shape.

If you got it too thick, it is easy to remove. If too thin, just do it again.

To finish, use some stain and penetrating finish.

Best,

Joe

Jesse,

Firstly, glad to hear the LP10 grip fits well. It would be a shame to modify such a pretty piece of wood...

As for the Pardini and FP10 grips, there is an open offer for you to come up our way and do a little grip modification. MTFPL match will be the Wednesday after next - work with Brian to get a match invitation and ATT if necessary.

As for wood putty, it has a tendancy to dry out and flake off. Although it's more money, the Morini grip compound is a better material in the long run. Seems like our large temp/humidy swings push putty past its ability to hold for a long time.

Mark.

try using quickwood. It is like a 2 part epoxy that is in clay like form already. You cut off what you need and kneed it really good. then you can put on as much as you need and build up an area super easy. The process I used was to put some where you need it get your hand wet in the spot where you skin comes in contact with the QW and then grip your pistol. Then carefully pull your hand out. The trick now is wet your finger and smooth out the QW around the edges. This will save you some sanding later and the mess associated. I repeated this process several times until I ened up with a perfect grip. Now I just want to have it duplicated with some nice wood

I have tried Bondo and some othere stuff and made a huge mess. You end up adding a bunch of material and taking off 75% of what you added and making a big mess in the process.

When I found Quickwood I was very impressed. When I go to the range I take some clay with me and use it to fill in some spots and then when I get home a break out the quickwood and replace the clay. Then after I let it dry I do some light sanding. One of the great things about this stuff is you can put it on thick or very thin. I did some major mods over a short period of time and then did lots of tuning over the next 6 months. The end result is I can raise my pistol every time with sights aligned.

seaton2@frontiernet.net

He can do a great deal of work with just your handprint and some info over the phone. He is worth whatever fee he charges...he has always seemed to be reasonable.