TargetTalk

I have been shooting with the iris in my shooting glasses stopped right down to give me the sharpest possible sight image AND target image. I figured that IF it is important to keep a crisp image of the fore-sight aligned in the rear sight with evenly spaced gaps, the same should be true for the relationship between the top of the fore sight and the black.

But a wierd thing happens when I do this - it becomes very hard to hold the sights in the position with the target sitting on the top of the foresight.

So, 3 questions.

1). Is the difficulty in holding this position BECAUSE of the sharp contrast between the sights and the target (making it harder to keep my focus on the foresight) and, by inference...

2). Is this the reason to open the iris so that the target edge is blurred, thereby giving a grey band against which to place the sights?

3). Related to the last two - given that everyone must suffer from the sights wobbling a bit, any advice on how to hold those wobbling sights in the sweet spot? I seem to be able to hold them OK below the black (i.e. with a large white space between the sights and black), but as soon as they come up into that sweet spot all hell breaks loose. Whats going on?

Mike,
Although I am not a pistol shooter (I shoot 3P smallbore) I heve seen many threads about the subject in this forum and also on targetshooting.ca
If you put the black of the target right on top of the front sight (6oclock hold), there still will be some white between the front sight and the black because of defraction of light around the top of the front sight. So, even when the front sight is in the black you will see some white.
I think it is better to hold a sub-6oclock hold with the same amount of white between the front sight and the bottom of the black as there is between the front sight and the sides of the rear sight. This way there will be no distirtion by defraction of light, and since the eye has a tendency to keep everything (the amount of white) symetric in all directions it will be much easyer to line up front- rear sight and target.
I am convinced that your aiming time will decrease and that trigger handling will become much easyer.
Try to look for other threads in this forum about the subject.

Good luck,
Albert
(The Netherlands)

Mike

If you were to open your iris so that just the sights are sharp (and the target is blurred) you will reduce the tendancy to try to hold the perfect sight/target alignment while you release the shot.

Using a tight six o'clock hold will increase the tendancy for you to try to be too exact. If you aim below the black then you will make it easier to accept the sight picture that you can hold. You are going to have wobble, accept it. Aim low enough so that at the extents of your wobble you still have white between the sights and the black.

Mike,

I think you hit the nail on the head with #1.

Your ability to see BOTH the bull and the front sight so clearly may be diverting some of your attention from where it should be - FULLY focused on the front sight.

I agree with David that you should consider opening up the iris to the point where you still maintain excellent focus on the front sight and not let the lack of acuity of the target become a factor.

If you wear glasses, you may be able to accomplish this with a good prescription lens without the need for the iris. Make sure your optometrist knows and can measure exactly the distance between your front sight and your eye when fitting you for a lens.

Keeping the sights aligned as perfectly as possible and mastering trigger control are the most important aspects of a good shot. If you can master these two components, you will be AMAZED at how much room for error you have in terms of aligning those perfectly aligned sights with the actual target. It's difficult to believe but very true.

Experiment with different holds including the sub six and deep six to find what suits you.

Tens & X's to you

Paul

Read Nygord's Notes on proper use of shotting glasses- great information and detailed explanation.

Bottom line: the iris is NOT to be used to sharpen target image; that's not what it's for at all and the practice is harmful as you've discovered.

Front sight sharp
Rear sights slightly fuzzy
Target very fuzzy
Align sights perfectly
Point perfectly aligned sights in the general vicinity of the rough aiming area; there is no such thing as an aim "point!"

Steve