TargetTalk

I saw only two black cap screws. Thanks.

yes, and look further back under the trigger guard, you may find some more. But yes those black screws are the action screws.

Doesn't the KK300 have three bedding screws? Two require a 4mm allen key, and the other a 3mm Allen key from memory.

could be, I can't remember, but also undo the screw and take the trigger guard off, one might be hiding under there.

I will spend more time tonight to check it out. So once I identify those action screws, do I just tighten them ( I saw some recommended numbers) or tune the screws for different ammo?

Thanks a lot!

What is this screw on the top behind the bolt?

loosening that screw allows you to slide the grip back and forth.

jhd26 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 6:37 am I will spend more time tonight to check it out. So once I identify those action screws, do I just tighten them ( I saw some recommended numbers) or tune the screws for different ammo?

Thanks a lot!

Hand tight will do at first. Some shooters do test fire over a range of torque values to find a sweetspot. You need a torque wrench capable of fine adjustment, and ammo that you know already shoots well.

Tim S wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 7:02 am

jhd26 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 6:37 am I will spend more time tonight to check it out. So once I identify those action screws, do I just tighten them ( I saw some recommended numbers) or tune the screws for different ammo?

Thanks a lot!

Hand tight will do at first. Some shooters do test fire over a range of torque values to find a sweetspot. You need a torque wrench capable of fine adjustment, and ammo that you know already shoots well.

Tim, I do have a torque wrench (in lbs.inch) like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012 ... UTF8&psc=1

Is this accurate enough? Could not find better option.

Torque Conversion Chart Newton Meters to Inch Pounds
Newton Meters (N-m) Inch Pounds (in-lbs)
3 = 26.55
4 = 35.4
5 = 44.25
6 = 53.1

Look at conversion chart, some recommended torque settings (5-6 Nm) seem to be really tight.

Modena wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 6:47 am loosening that screw allows you to slide the grip back and forth.

OK. Got it. But what is the black screw? Thanks.

jhd26 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 7:27 am Tim, I do have a torque wrench (in lbs.inch) like this:

Is this accurate enough? Could not find better option.

Look at conversion chart, some recommended torque settings (5-6 Nm) seem to be really tight.

I can't comment on the accuracy of that, but 1 Nm steps seem rather coarse. Mine goes in 0.1Nm steps. It should be perfectly good for just tightening the screws, providing you can get the right metric bits.

Yes, 5-6Nm is fairly tight, but remember this is a fairly heavy/barrel action, and many owners use alu stocks. These don't compress like wood, and I know of shooters who use higher torques. Starting out lower doesn't hurt.

I wouldn't worry about torque testing for a while though. Any form of tuning is meant to squeeze out that last bit of accuracy. This doesn't matter if you can only hold within the 8-ring. Worry about it when you aren't getting enough deep 10s.

Tim S wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 9:33 am

jhd26 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 7:27 am Tim, I do have a torque wrench (in lbs.inch) like this:

Is this accurate enough? Could not find better option.

Look at conversion chart, some recommended torque settings (5-6 Nm) seem to be really tight.

I can't comment on the accuracy of that, but 1 Nm steps seem rather coarse. Mine goes in 0.1Nm steps. It should be perfectly good for just tightening the screws, providing you can get the right metric bits.

Yes, 5-6Nm is fairly tight, but remember this is a fairly heavy/barrel action, and many owners use alu stocks. These don't compress like wood, and I know of shooters who use higher torques. Starting out lower doesn't hurt.

I wouldn't worry about torque testing for a while though. Any form of tuning is meant to squeeze out that last bit of accuracy. This doesn't matter if you can only hold within the 8-ring. Worry about it when you aren't getting enough deep 10s.

Sure. I understand that part.I will only check if anything too loose. It is a process of my getting to know my rifle.

My current practice has been in a 50 feet indoor range. Shooting about 200 rounds daily mostly. I get a lot of human errors I need to fix. I also dry fire a lot daily at home putting on my jacket and sling as I cannot do that in the range. I am making a lot of progress. Just want to get a lot of practice and prep before my first league shoot in a week or two. That will be a real learning opportunity side by side with good shooters and with their help. Right now I really need to adjust my trigger as I have too many 'unexpected release' even though on target. They account for many of my out-fliers. They are mostly 5-8 rings on my 50 foot NRA small bore targets. I am not sure if practicing on a 50 foot range with a reduced target is good or close to real 50-100 yard shooting. Guess I will find out soon.

Tim, I heard 50 foot and 50 yard have the same elevation. Is it right? Moving from a 50 foot range to a 50 yard and 100 yard outdoor range, I might get lost on sighting in at least on elevation adjustment on my sight. Wind-age is something I will worry later. I know all sights are different. But for my Centra insight out rear sights, roughly how many clicks I need to make to be on paper from 50 foot to 100 yard range? Assuming 50 foot elevation is the same as 50 yard.

How are you shooting at present, if you can oy wear the jacket and sling at home? Standing? From a bench? Prone unsupported? I'm tempted to say that unsupported shooting from position won't tell you much about your technique or how/where to adjust the rifle. I believe there is a place for training without all the clothing, but that's alongside training with clothing. Shooting from a bench doesn't mimic sling shooting all that well IME.

Shooting at 50/100 yards outdoors is different to 50ft indoors. Even when the targets are scaled, the environmental factors make a big difference. 0.22 bullets move in the wind, and natural light is not consistent. I don't know about sight changes between 50ft and 50yd I'm afraid. 50ft is a US thing. Brits shoot at 25 yards indoors (occasionally 20); it's about 12 clicks UP from 25 to 50 with a 10-click rearsight. From 50 to 100 it's another 30+. That's one full 360° turn to 50, and three full turns for 100.

Tim S wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 10:50 am How are you shooting at present, if you can oy wear the jacket and sling at home? Standing? From a bench? Prone unsupported? I'm tempted to say that unsupported shooting from position won't tell you much about your technique or how/where to adjust the rifle. I believe there is a place for training without all the clothing, but that's alongside training with clothing. Shooting from a bench doesn't mimic sling shooting all that well IME.

Shooting at 50/100 yards outdoors is different to 50ft indoors. Even when the targets are scaled, the environmental factors make a big difference. 0.22 bullets move in the wind, and natural light is not consistent. I don't know about sight changes between 50ft and 50yd I'm afraid. 50ft is a US thing. Brits shoot at 25 yards indoors (occasionally 20); it's about 12 clicks UP from 25 to 50 with a 10-click rearsight. From 50 to 100 it's another 30+. That's one full 360° turn to 50, and three full turns for 100.

I can’t shoot prone in my current range. I am shooting sitting with elbow support and glove but no sling. I like my holds in prone at home with jacket and sling. A lot more stable even though I hate wearing the sweater and jacket that cause me to sweat. I guess I have been focusing practicing my aim and trigger control aspects of my shooting. I got several invites to shoot with league members on their private ranges. Will take on them as I get to know them better. Your sight clicks will give me some ball park numbers when I get to my first outdoor range. There will be a lot to learn. I will just take it slow and enjoy the process. Thank you so much!

So, shooting with your elbows rested on a bench? That won't fully replicate any regular shooting position*. I'm not surprised that your results are sometimes erratic, as you are relying on your arms to support a 12-14lb rifle. Target positions all emphasis not muscling the rifle onto aim. I don't want to appear negative, but this won't teach good technique, and may reinforce errors.

Shooting from a rest is common for beginners, so they can learn sight alignment, breathing cycles, and trigger release without straining to support the rifle.

Don't adjust the trigger based on this live fire. If the trigger feels OK when dry firing at home with all the kit, leave it alone. Don't forget to protect the chamber with a spent case or plug.

jhd26 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 8:17 am

Modena wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 6:47 am loosening that screw allows you to slide the grip back and forth.

OK. Got it. But what is the black screw? Thanks.

I can't remember what that countersunk black screw is, it might be holding some aluminium bracing part into the wood stock, just leave it alone. Do your action screws around 4.5Nm, forgot about testing accuracy by adjusting these for now. Once you can shoot 580+ on ISSF 50 meter, then worry about things like action screw effects on accuracy.

Modena wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 3:33 pm

jhd26 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 8:17 am

Modena wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 6:47 am loosening that screw allows you to slide the grip back and forth.

OK. Got it. But what is the black screw? Thanks.

I can't remember what that countersunk black screw is, it might be holding some aluminium bracing part into the wood stock, just leave it alone. Do your action screws around 4.5Nm, forgot about testing accuracy by adjusting these for now. Once you can shoot 580+ on ISSF 50 meter, then worry about things like action screw effects on accuracy.

Okay. I will follow your advice. Just keep shooting and improve my groups. Thanks.

Tim S wrote: ↑Tue Jul 30, 2019 2:54 pm So, shooting with your elbows rested on a bench? That won't fully replicate any regular shooting position*. I'm not surprised that your results are sometimes erratic, as you are relying on your arms to support a 12-14lb rifle. Target positions all emphasis not muscling the rifle onto aim. I don't want to appear negative, but this won't teach good technique, and may reinforce errors.

Shooting from a rest is common for beginners, so they can learn sight alignment, breathing cycles, and trigger release without straining to support the rifle.

Don't adjust the trigger based on this live fire. If the trigger feels OK when dry firing at home with all the kit, leave it alone. Don't forget to protect the chamber with a spent case or plug.

Okay. I will use a bag or bipods for now on their bench. It is a very narrow kind of bench anyway. I understand using bone skeletons and not muscles to support. I feel it is closest I can get to a prone. But I feel prone with jacket and sling is lot easier. But if I do that in this range their machine gun shells might ding me pretty bad.

At this beginning stage, there is too much to learn and practice. I went to shoot today and feel I can accurately call my shots as to where they hit before checking with my scope. So I feel any practice can help. Hopefully I will have true ranges to practice.

Again thanks! Any advice from you I will take seriously.

Hi

from my Sierra ballistics calculator:

a .22 bullet of 40gr at 1050ft/sec, zeroed at 100yds, scope hight 2",
gives the following values:

26yds - + 2"
50yds - + 3.75"
85yds - + 2"
100yds - zero

should give you a rough idea!

Can't copy the page from the program - must be protected.

regards
Gunter
NRA Life 1974

Gunter wrote: ↑Thu Aug 01, 2019 10:49 am Hi

from my Sierra ballistics calculator:

a .22 bullet of 40gr at 1050ft/sec, zeroed at 100yds, scope hight 2",
gives the following values:

26yds - + 2"
50yds - + 3.75"
85yds - + 2"
100yds - zero

should give you a rough idea!

Can't copy the page from the program - must be protected.

regards
Gunter
NRA Life 1974

Thank you! It is very helpful for my scope setup.