TargetTalk

Maybe you could buy, either, new or used a Lee Reloader Press. It's the cheapest press I'm aware of.



Or a yet better alternative would be one of the Lee Press Kits:

http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog ... ress2.html
Handloading equipment doesn't have to be necessarily expensive. Yet I'm aware that the cost of this hardware may double in the socialist bureaucratic EU.

30 fixed cartridges. Projectile sits deeper now. I will try them coming Saturday.

Our club has reload equipment, as I have heard. Members could use it. May be I will try to load myself next time.

Those cartridges look good to me. Good luck and happy shooting! :-)

They actually look a bit too deep to me.

It looks like you have pushed them down so that the centre "pip" is flush with the case edge, which means that the edge of the bullet is below the case edge.

It's the edge of the bullet that should be flush with the case edge as shown in the picture on this Lapua page.

It's the edge of the bullet that should be flush with the case

David is right in his statement, but those cartridges should be good enough to check if the cartridge overall length was the culprit of those jams.

You are right about the Lapua bullet seating depth, on the other hand Fiocchi factory seating depths are much deeper, the "pip " is a full 0.71mm or .028 thousandths below the case rim. For what it's worth, I have seated my bullets the same as Fiocchi and never have had a failure to load . But then i have a GSP and they shoot anything that fits the magazine.

Be careful, Fiocchi's bullets don't have the "pip", are a perfect cylinder.
Seating bullets deeper in the case increase the pressure. Now it seems that the cartridges in the picture are less crimped than before.

Just wondering, is the buffer in good condition?
It not that uncommon that the adjustment screw snaps off leaving the buffer slide hanging on the cross pin in the frame.
http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/sphsp20.htm

Fiocchi factory 32cal

Anders Turebrand wrote:Just wondering, is the buffer in good condition?

I got from Walther new buffer. No screws, springs...

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_PVMqOPcgMtg/S2Wum ... imgmax=800

It's showtime!

Hm. Also. We must forget about O.C.L. in my case. Seems that CISM champion has right - recoil spring must be checked.

Now I know more about the problem. It is synchronization error, as programmers say.

Flow: cartridge is about leaving magazine (case is still held by magazine lips) in the same time slide goes forward and causes jams.
Approx. each 3rd shot - jam.

If I pull slide about 1-2 mm back... cartridge freely pops from magazine and lays now as it must lay.
I have also tried to remove magazine - works too - magazine's lips holds cartridge no more and it can be freely driven by the slide into chamber.

Front part of cartridge is absolutely free... it is already in chamber (about 4mm).

On the foto you will see collision between case edge and magazine's lip.

P.S. I did a couple of shots... there is a small difference in recoil after I had pushed bullets deeper into case. Stronger recoil, but I am not sure 100%. But anyway... no influence on results.

How about a different magazine from a friend? (Hämmerli 280 uses the same magazine) How old is the return springs? A new fresh spring set might work better. I have only had .22 SP20 but my 280 like’s bullet 2 mm out from cartridge. And no crimp at all. 98 grain HN .315 1.18 grain Ba10
Kent

The rim of the round doesn't appear to be under the extractor. Normally the bolt will push the round forward slightly and the magazine spring will then push the round up into the bolt recess and under the extractor. As the round is forced forward the rim will hit the rear lips of the mag and further commit the round into the bolt recess and again under the extractor. At that point it's hasta lavista into the chamber

But, it's not going into the bolt recess and i suspect either a very weak magazine spring or perhaps the cartridge rim has too large a diameter, although that seems unlikely. The only other solution is to trade even for my GSP and i'll pay the freight


...

It looks like the rear of the case is having a hard timing sliding up the face of the slide in time. A weak magazine spring might do it, or possibly burrs or roughness on the extractor or the face of the slide.

RB6 has exactly described the flow.

I will try finally weaker recoil spring. I believe, cartridge must get more time to popup from magazine. Weaker spring will slower repetition in time plus applying not so much force on the rear part of a cartridge as now.

Magazine is new. Both are new. Althrough this model 10 or more years old - this pistol was never used before me.

Magazin's spring is so hard that I must use loading helper (special plastic handle).

It's not the mag spring that makes the round slide up the bolt face. It should happen as the rim of the cartridge runs up the back edge of the mag lips.

It's hard to see in the pics but you might want to check that the rim isn't actually getting stuck in the mag lips that might be too wide.

Sometimes the temptation is to widen the mag lips when there is feeding problems, however if they are too wide they can't do the job of lifting the rim up as it goes forward.

You can see in pic "jam3" that there is a gap between the body of the cartridge and the mag lips. This means that they are too wide and the rim could go into there rather than slide up. The back of the round uses this to lift up and go into the chamber more level. yours seemd to be trying to go in on a too steep uphill angle.

Next thought, is there a specific direction the magazine spring should be put in?
On some models turning the spring backwards can produce failures to feed.
And, yes, even new magazines can be put together the wrong way...

Ruig. I have a solution . Cash in some silver and buy a couple of boxes of mixed factory ammo of your choice. The problem may likely be in the reloads, so with factory ammo you may find the pistol will function perfectly. There is a possibility that you may be trying to fix something that isn't broken


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Is it my imagination or does picture jam_3 .jpg show the case being held down by the firing pin protruding from the slide.

I have seen this before, many times on different guns, when the firing pin has broken or is sticking.

Make sure it is clean, free and has not broken. Even if it has broken it might continue to fire.

David Levene wrote:Is it my imagination or does picture jam_3 .jpg show the case being held down by the firing pin protruding from the slide.
.

You could be on to it there. It's hard to tell if it's sticking out or just a trick of the light.