TargetTalk

I think it's M3, because I'm pretty sure it takes a 1.5 mm hex key. From the drawing, it's a cone point set screw, but that's probably not essential. The minimum ID of a 3mm x 0.5 thread hole is 2.459 mm. You want a nylon plug that diameter, or slightly less, about 2mm to 2.5 mm long. A piece of the right diameter "weed-whacker" (string trimmer) cord would work. 0.095" is a standard diameter, and that works out to 2.41 mm and would be prefect if you don't mind the color... If you shoot air pistol, a piece of empty chamber indicator cord might be about right.

If you look at your pistol, they use pieces of black plastic in several location to prevent screws from slipping, and they probably use the same material for this. From memory, the grip angle adjust screws in the back are retained that way.

Alternatively, a piece of brass rod from a hobby/craft store would work. Because the brass is harder and won't compress as much, a 3 mm long piece should work well.

Good news~ @ GWhite. My theory worked. I used a steel screw to stop the outer screw spinning while doing the inner screw. I tried nylon screw first but it’s not strong enough to stop the spin. For the steel screw I was really careful to put the pressure in as you said it may chew up the threads.

Now I’ve perfect 1005g trigger weight.

here is a photo showing the screw I used to stop the outer screw spinning.

You want to have something to prevent the trigger screw from shifting from firing vibration & repeated trigger operation. You can mimic what the factory apparently left out of your pistol Shave down the end of a nylon screw so most of the threads are gone. Then cut ~ 1.5-2 mm of that to put in the hole as a soft plug and back it up with a steel set screw.

I could be wrong, but I think the locking screw on my pistol is on the left side, the way it's shown in the manual.

Snap! You are absolutely expert! I’ve just done that.

I used a nylon screw only but left the end on. So I had to carve a shallow channel on the inside of the grip to give the end of the nylon screw a bit space.

I found the shifting issue a couple of days ago while training. I shot 100 rounds but the trigger became lighter and lighter towards to the end LOL.

As long as the head doesn't break off, you can always remove the nylon screw & do as I suggested later. Hopefully it won't slip again.

The advantage of the two piece approach is that the plastic plug will form to the threads on the steel trigger screw when it is tightened. With a single screw, the rotation of the screw will want to either mess up the end of the locking screw, or damage the threads of the trigger adjust screw. At least with a single nylon screw, it can be sacrificial, and the adjustment screw threads (and the frame) are safe.

At some point in the future, if you order any parts, you can get the plastic plug & set screw to make it factory correct. If it's under warranty, I would ask them to send you the parts they apparently left out.

Oh well if it’s supposed to be a part of the pistol, I’ll ask the seller. I’m gonna need to find that part number on my manual. Thanks GWhite. Thumb up.

In my manual, they show parts #2108 & #2109. They go in a hole on the left side. You've been working on the right side. Maybe you have them, but they aren't tight.

Checked the manual and my MG2, yeah it has #2108&2109 on the left side. I just simply didn’t see it lol. So I dug in from the right side. lol