TargetTalk

Hi Mark:

Nothing compares to the Racer!! (Lord, I love that rifle!). There is something to be said for "style points". The Racer is the "coolest" rifle I own - what an engineering masterpiece.

I love messing with it too - I have broken (or tried to break it) on several occasions - all completely my fault! It has been really fun messing with it (and fixing what I had broken).

Regarding the Racer, the trigger is the absolute best trigger I have ever squeezed. The position of the loading port - and the ergonomic advantages it provides - is awesome. Is it more accurate than a KK300 (or more comparably a Bleiker or KK500), probably not. Is it worth the money to anyone else (except a complete gadget nerd like me).......probably not. In my humble opinion, it is, has and always will be about the barrel screwed to it (regarding the overall accuracy potential of the system). The action / stock have to provide some basic attributes - but all of these high quality offerings do that. It's about the luck of the draw when you fit a barrel to it.

I don't use the Racer at the higher profile events not because of anything lacking with the system, I just can't get the EVO III stock (and all the infinite adjustments) to fit the same as that old fiberglass prone stock. I am just a knuckle dragger! I shoot it throughout the spring and winter, and have been working on it though. It is just so labor intensive - you make an adjustment, and it takes a few training sessions to try to determine if it made any difference. If you make more than one, you are playing with fire (at least I am!).

Would I choose the Racer over a KK300.........sure. Can a random KK300 based rifle outshoot a random Racer on a given day.......also a sure!

Hope that helps! Love that Racer!

kev

Thanks Kevin.

Mark

I thank you all for your advice, and tips. Because of your advice (and many other peoples advice) I am now purchasing an Anschutz 1907 in a 1918 stock. But now the matter of sights rears its head. Which sights are good and what are any attachments I should get?

If you want THE best rear sight; Warner. 1/8 clicks work well for smallbore. You'll need an 11mm to Redfield adapter. And it may take a bit to find a Warner; check with Alan or Dan at Warner Tool. "Reasonably" priced used ones sell in minutes. I prefer the Gehrmann rear iris over the Anschutz; not certain why. For old eyes, the BeesafeUSA BeeSting bloop tube / tuner wearing a Stallings Machine Righsight (large 7.5mm iris) helps some of us. If you have young eyes you could just buy the Anschutz rear with an 18 or 22mm front; not exactly cheap but less than half the other setup.

Is the Warner actually in production at the mo? I'd heard that it had been suspended.

If you want European sights, the Gehmann 590 is a great starter. The Anschutz 7002, Centra 10-50, and Centra Spy are all proven at Olympic level. Grunig make a version of the old Hammerli that should be good.

As for attachments pick a Gehmann or Centra iris, with or without filters.

Tim, The last I heard production was suspended. It would be best to check with Al or Dan; may have a waiting list or know of one. Considering the price on the last used one that popped up, they might become a better investment than government bonds. The function and quality are outstanding; the Nightforce of the iron sight world (or maybe its the other way around).

Mark

Tim S, I have heard of these irises, but not sure what they are or do. Could I get some information on that?

Levi Bergren wrote:Tim S, I have heard of these irises, but not sure what they are or do. Could I get some information on that?

Irises are replacement eyepieces. Instead of a drilled hole there is a variable diameter aperture created by interlocking metal leaves, like on a camera. An iris eyepiece allows you to increase or decrease the size of the aperture to suit the ambient light conditions so your sight picture is more comfortable. Say you like a 1.2mm aperture in overcast conditions (or a well lit indoor range), you could open the iris on a very gloomy day, or tighten it on a very bright day.

Filters are used go enhance contrast between the black aiming mark and the pale background. Greys can counter strong light, and yellow tones down blue/UV. Polarisers will reduce glare on very sunny days.

Cool! Thanks!

Bolt throw on the KK300 is significantly shorter than the Anschutz 54. A biggie with my small-statured shooters. I also like the ergonomics of the Walther better. Seems lighter than it really is.



What I don't like about the KK300 is the limited range of adjustment on the stock. If you have a long neck and need tall sight risers, you're gonna have to fabricate an aluminum block to raise the cheekpiece accordingly. Walthers also lack the convenience of one-wrench stock adjustments. You need two or three different sizes, and the butt hook has some fiddly parts easy to lose.

Bob, just add a wood spacer under the ck piece or replace the factry piece with a taller piece of wood.

redschietti wrote:Bob, just add a wood spacer under the ck piece or replace the factry piece with a taller piece of wood.

I know how, but the issue is none of that is a speedy adjustment.

My dsughters constantly adjust ck piece in position. Yours are older 300, maybe not same?

redschietti wrote:My dsughters constantly adjust ck piece in position. Yours are older 300, maybe not same?

I think Bob meant that the cheekpiece has limited travel, and won't go as high as he/his shooters want, not that it doesn't adjust.

I just measured. Ck piece adjusts up an down 1 inch in position on kk300, w thumb screws. For what its worth.

Bob Smalser wrote:Bolt throw on the KK300 is significantly shorter than the Anschutz 54. A biggie with my small-statured shooters. I also like the ergonomics of the Walther better. Seems lighter than it really is.
What I don't like about the KK300 is the limited range of adjustment on the stock. If you have a long neck and need tall sight risers, you're gonna have to fabricate an aluminum block to raise the cheekpiece accordingly. Walthers also lack the convenience of one-wrench stock adjustments. You need two or three different sizes, and the butt hook has some fiddly parts easy to lose.

So Bob,what I'm getting from this (as well as from other people) is that the Walther is only good for its barrel, trigger, and bolt?
P.S. Do you coach a club in Seabeck?
Also, to everybody else, I now have my sights and rifle!!!!! Really really nice! An Anschutz 1913 in 1918 w/ Anchutz sight set, and 6 color iris! Thank you all so much for all your advice!!!!

Levi Bergren wrote:
So Bob,what I'm getting from this (as well as from other people) is that the Walther is only good for its barrel, trigger, and bolt?
P.S. Do you coach a club in Seabeck?

"Only good"?

What I'm saying is the Walther K300 has a superior bolt design and trigger to Anschutz, and is equal in all other features except the limited adjustment of the cheekpiece. The less the rifle is disturbed during reloading, the better.

Our local club with a junior small-bore program is the Kitsap Rifle and Revolver Club.

Ok. Thanks!

Levi Bergren wrote:Ok. Thanks. So you know Jeff Phillips?

Sure.