TargetTalk

if you want aggressive, buy some houge or other smooth grips and cover with no skid tape from home depot, the grip will never move in your hand.

GunRunner wrote:if you want aggressive, buy some houge or other smooth grips and cover with no skid tape from home depot, the grip will never move in your hand.

Have to give an Amen on the smooth aluminum Hogues with grip tape. Once these were on my SA Range Officer (with tape on the front strap) I took off the Rink anatomical grips from my Hammerli X-esse and went to a CMM frame adapter so I could mount taped up Hogues on it too.

It's amazing what you can learn when a 2600 club shooter hands you something and tells you to try it.

Someone else already mentioned the grips don't touch your hand much in a 1911. The front strap and back strap does A LOT.

Piece of skateboard tape or aggressive stippling in the front. Flat MSH with aggressive checker/stippling. I even have the grip safety stippled.

I like the tiger tooth pattern from Jim Clark, Jr. Jr. He can do wonders with his little bit and hammer.

I agree with Dan. The grips are not as important as checkering on the front strap and mainspring housing.

However, if you are shooting in high heat and humidity, a slick wooden grip panel can give you the illusion of losing control of the gun. This can cause unwelcome thinking to enter your shot process.

I personally are a big fan of the Simonich Gunner grips with the golf ball pattern.

I have a 1968 Clark Sr. long slide that has the tiger teeth stippling on the front strap, installed a Smith & Alexander 20 lpi arched main spring housing and the VZ Gunfighter grips(golf ball texture).

I made my own grip panel shims from cork gasket making material and installed under the grip panels to widen cause the 1911 has never felt good in my hands(I have double stack hands :)
My Beretta 92 fits my hand perfectly.

So far it is the best fit and controllability I have come across so far.
It is about getting the gun to fit your individual needs.

Clarence