Do you happen to remember the lenght of the 223 case?
I did not want to alter the original geometry, so I chose the length of the case so that the trigger is in the same position as it is with the stock installed. So I shortened the case to 15mm.
perhaps because it would cost $260 here,plus freight ? A couple of the US army markmanship unit members use that model,so it's effective,and easy to clean.
It is also a cost in time and effort in making one plus the trial and effort in recreating the wheel. Now if you enjoy spending time in creating something of that nature and have the skills, equipment and talent to do that type of work, then that is great. For me time is money and if I have a proven product I would rather go with I know works.
I spent $400 buying my Toz and it would be around $260 for me for the compensator which is still way cheaper than buying a new free pistol and still have superb accuracy. Do the math, a new Morini is almost $2K and a Matchguns MG5 (which I have bought and has still not arrived from the distributer yet) is around $1,500. So you are still coming out pretty cheap in the long run.
I think each approach has its positives...I am an inveterate fiddler, (read , reinvent the wheel,to some extent,and a cheap bugger to boot ),so I receive a lot of pleasure from trying new stuff in a economical fashion. For instance,I will soon, delivery willing,have a width and depth adjustable notch rear sight,triple width post front sight, compensator and top cocker lever in carbonfibre for the Toz,at 1/3 the normal cost. Admittedly,the rear sight will only have 1.5 cm per click,instead of the original 1 cm per click adjustment,but,due to my fiddling time cutting into my practice time,that's plenty for me ! * TIC* Anyway, I'm having fun,and when all is said and done,there may be others who would like to do similar lower-budget mods to their own pistols.When it's all completed, I'll post photos,and the vast multitudes of Toz owners can judge for themselves....
Are you going to go with the ball bearings. With the old design i showed you with out it I used to have some ejection problems. Since then we fixed the problem, one of the bolts was catching on the mechanism so we shortened it. It now ejects perfectly but I went to shoot a comp a couple of weeks ago and found there isnt enough weight in the lever to hold the block shut. I had to tape weights to the lever. Unless you use a lot heaver weight I would say you should either use the ball bearing idea or modify the spring in the mechanism to hold the block closed. I am using a manganeese steel as it is a lot harder and will flex more, giving more pressure on a small lever against the ball bearings
either the ball bearing in a detent...elegant , or an over-center latch / notch ,as the carbonfiber is very stiff in the vertical plane,yet "springy" in the horizontal.
I use a ball detent acting on the stub of the original lever. If you set it up properly it will hold the action both closed and open in the right position so that the extractor returns to it's home position for loading the next round.
Well ,here is phase one...removal of the original lever system,addition of new lever,modification of front "forend" metal,and a trigger for short-fingered folk ! The carbonfiber lever is obviously in its "rough" configuration. The pics show the adapter/spacer plate to give clearance between the lever and the action body,and also the weight removed as well. And if anyone feels this was an odd thing to do to an otherwise perfectly good pistol ,well that's OK, too. Next is to add a detent ball for the lever,modify the original grip mounting system for a one-piece grip,similar to morini/pardini with angle and rotation adjustment,add more lightness (thankyou ,Colin Chapman...Lotus ),build a fore-end cover incl. adjustable weighting , and hopefully the new sights will be here soon. Until the next time ,dear readers....
Attachments
before and after...yes,I know that's an M in the pic
I got my new TOZ 35 aluminum forend today and I really like the balance and light weight of the system. The forend for those who do not have experience with system has a provision to mount weights in three different positions. I am considering rebarreling my TOZ with a shorter and lighter barrel with a compensator. I also received and mounted the rear sight adjustment indicator plate. It bolted on with no problem.
i got my blow out compensator. iv been working on my morini but by next week i shhould be ready to do the toz. after looking at it instead of heating it to get the barrel sleeve off im just going to cut the sight off and mound the compensator back a small amount
I will see if I can get you some photos this weekend. Since my MG5 still hasn't arrived (3 months and counting), it looks like I am going to be using my TOZ 35 for matches for awhile since my CM-80 Super Comp is also in the shop with problems. I could definitely do a lot worse than the TOZ. :)
Can someone comment on the TOZ aluminum forened. If the goal is to reduce the weight of the TOZ why would we want to mount weights on the new, aluminum forend?
I think it is more a different look, than pure weight reduction...plus ,of course the " cool" factor. ...they do look better , IMHO ,than the original chunk of wood . If you don't have the Rink type fore end with the adjustable counterweight , then this is an alternative. Also,the balance is adjustable in a different way...reduce the overall weight,then add some back in a more advantageous way.
