Pardini SP Trigger Adjustment Diagrams

[Gwhite]

Every few months, somebody asks how to adjust the trigger on an SP. I was confronted with the same problem recently. The instructions in the book aren't very detailed or clear, and the diagram in the manual for the SP New looks like a Fax of a bad scan.

There is a good set of notes from Don Nygord that basically tells you how to set everything back to square one & adjust from there. However, it largely explains what to do, and not WHY. Being an engineer, I really wanted to understand the inner workings and what each screw does to what piece of the mechanism.

Step one was to create a better drawing. After that, I got carried away and made drawings of what was going on during the firing process, and the cocking process to show the action of the disconnector.

My plan is to put these all together into a PDF with some verbiage for others. In the meantime, I'd be interested in feedback on the drawings.

Here's the new version of what is in the manual:

[Gwhite]

Here is a diagram showing how the firing process operates:

[Gwhite]

And here is a diagram showing the cocking process and how the disconnector functions:

[Gwhite]

This last one is a "Time Line" of the firing process, showing the sequence of events, and which screw adjusts which part of the cycle.

The sequence is both more complex, and quite different from, what goes on in something like a High Standard. One of the things that threw me initially was that the sear is moving during the first stage, and that the slack can be adjusted out almost completely. In many older, simpler pistols, the slack IS the first stage, and can't easily be adjusted.

In order to shorten the overall trigger pull, you have to reduce the sear engagement, effectively removing the travel from the END of the process, not the beginning. When you make this adjustment, it interacts with other settings, most notably the disconnector / slack adjustment, and the point at which the 2nd stage kicks in.

[IPshooter]

Those diagrams are very helpful. I wish I had them when I had my SP and HP.

I have Don's instructions, but there have also been a couple of folks on TT who posted excellent instructions about how to adjust these triggers. Between their instructions and your diagrams, the factory might learn a lesson or two!

Stan

[Leon]

This last one is a "Time Line" of the firing process, showing the sequence of events, and which screw adjusts which part of the cycle.

The sequence is both more complex, and quite different from, what goes on in something like a High Standard. One of the things that threw me initially was that the sear is moving during the first stage, and that the slack can be adjusted out almost completely. In many older, simpler pistols, the slack IS the first stage, and can't easily be adjusted.

In order to shorten the overall trigger pull, you have to reduce the sear engagement, effectively removing the travel from the END of the process, not the beginning. When you make this adjustment, it interacts with other settings, most notably the disconnector / slack adjustment, and the point at which the 2nd stage kicks in.

Absolutely fantastic set of diagrams. Like you, I've found the instructions in the manual verging on the incomprehensible..... These will be put to good use..

[sparky]

Thank you! This is awesome!!! One of the most helpful threads yet! The images should be saved in the Target Talk Archives ASAP, or at least stickied.

[Gwhite]

Nobody has found any serious booboos or typos so far. I've tried to make the drawings a bit more legible by fattening up the line widths in some places. Even with all the pictures, it's hard to describe all of the interactions.

My plan now is to go through the TT archives & collect as much info as I can from earlier posts and then try to condense it down along with the drawings. The final result will be a small manual that I will make available as a PDF. Nygord's description is still the best I've seen, especially if you need to go back to square one & start over. I made enough mistakes in my first few attempts that I'm hoping to add some additional hints about what can go wrong & how to fix it.

[visitor]

Thanks from a Pardini owner who had the basics but not the details. How would you like to be a real hero? Do the same thing for the (in)famous MG2. I'll bet there aren't a dozen people in the world who really understand the interactions between the bolt and the feed mechanism.

[Gwhite]

From what I've read here, documenting the inner workings of the MG2 is like trying to hit a moving target. They appear to be using their customers as guinea pigs while they get the bugs out of the design. It sounds like they are converging on a reliably functioning pistol. Given the somewhat radical design, I still have to wonder if they will continue to make changes over time as long term issues arise (parts wearing out or breaking prematurely, etc.)

One of the reasons I like the Pardini SP is that it is a reasonably time tested design, and it appears to be very well thought out. I've worked on a variety of firearms, and Pardini has done an excellent job of avoiding many shortcomings of other pistols.

On the other hand, if someone were to GIVE me an MG2, I would be happy to try to figure out and document the inner workings...

[deadeyedick]

[

quote]I'll bet there aren't a dozen people in the world who really understand the interactions between the bolt and the feed mechanism.

I must be one of the dozen then.........I own an MG2RF, and find the mechanism fairly straightforward. Mine had an ejection problem, but one request to the factory saw the newly designed extractor and slide supplied and fitted with complete elimination of the problem.

My experience with pistol shooters in general is that a lot of them have theories about the cause of a problem [ and generally have a go at fixing it in their own roughshod manner ] but only a few have true engineering understanding.

The MG2 is a completely new approach to feeding a round, and I have found it to be a vast improvement over the age old method used by other manufacturers. Also a close examination shows no component that should wear unduly...in fact the current configuration seems over engineered if anything.One thing for sure, that given my time again I would have made the same purchase.

As a footnote, a member of our club bought a Pardini SP New several weeks ago, and on the second use it broke the extractor claw, and then the rear sight was found to be bent, so some twisting was involved. Moral is that all pistols can arrive with some attention needed. However, after shooting the Pardini, I found the Matchgun to be on a different level.....one up that is. Personal taste I know, but now the original problems have been solved, and the Matchgun is one superb piece of equipment. Those slow to try it due to what I refer to as " medieval thinking" will be keeping themselves in the dark ages.[/quote]

[ALBEITAR]

I have just bought a new Pardini SP mechanical, and have enjoyed a lot setting up the trigger. Gwhite, your diagrams are wonderful. I wish I have had simmilar ones when I had my Walther SSP! Pardini did a great design in order to make trigger adjusts in a friendly and simple way, if you know what you are looking for, it is very easy to get it. I spent several nights fighting with my SSP untill I set the trigger as I wanted, with the Pardini it takes some minutes.
Great job, Gwhite!

[ablasta]

Every few months, somebody asks how to adjust the trigger on an SP. I was confronted with the same problem recently. The instructions in the book aren't very detailed or clear, and the diagram in the manual for the SP New looks like a Fax of a bad scan.

There is a good set of notes from Don Nygord that basically tells you how to set everything back to square one & adjust from there. However, it largely explains what to do, and not WHY. Being an engineer, I really wanted to understand the inner workings and what each screw does to what piece of the mechanism.

Step one was to create a better drawing. After that, I got carried away and made drawings of what was going on during the firing process, and the cocking process to show the action of the disconnector.

My plan is to put these all together into a PDF with some verbiage for others. In the meantime, I'd be interested in feedback on the drawings.

Here's the new version of what is in the manual:

Hi. Was the PDF ever fully produced? If so, where can it be found? Thank you for the great effort.

[David M]

I have a few problems with this diagram and setup time line.
The way I read your set up is you are using the sear screw "cp" incorrectly.

"In order to shorten the overall trigger pull, you have to reduce the sear engagement, effectively removing the travel from the END of the process, not the beginning. When you make this adjustment, it interacts with other settings, most notably the disconnector / slack adjustment, and the point at which the 2nd stage kicks in."

If you do this you risk a drop off of the sear and a machine gun discharge or typical a failure to reset on cycling because of not enough sear engagement.

The sear on the Pardini is a live sear, after engagement with the disconnector it moves though both First and Second Stage until discharge.
You have completely missed the setup and function of screw "CS" and its inner spring, ball and screw "PS".
After setting the correct sear engagement (this will set total trigger travel with full sear engagement), you need to set the sear release point.
Turn the screw "PS" full in until it bottoms the spring and ball (about 3 turns). Do not over tighten.
Turn the outer screw "CS" in a couple of turns.
Cock the pistol and with finger weight on the trigger it should be sitting on the ball in screw "CS" '
Very slowly turn the outer screw "CS" out until the sear disengages and the hammer drops.
You have now found the sear break point (and ball contact point).
For a break like glass trigger (short 2nd travel) turn the outer "CS" in 1/4 to 1/3 turn. (Do not go less than 1/8 turn)
For a longer 2nd stage travel (roll off style trigger) turn "CS" in up to 1 turn.
Now back off the 2nd stage weight screw "PS" to allow the ball to move with spring weight.
The second stage travel is the amount of allowable ball depression inside "CS" prior to sear break.
Set up your weight ratio between fisrt and second stage depending on how you set up the second stage travel.
Lighter first stage weight with "PP" with heavier 2nd stage "PS" for break like glass trigger.
For a rolloff trigger with a longer 2nd stage travel, you can use a lighter 2nd stage weight.
DO NOT USE THE SEAR ENGAGEMENT FOR SETTING SECOND STAGE TRAVEL.
Use the "PG" screw to set the disengage bar clearance to allow trigger reset (some small rattle is required).
Finally set the overtravel stop"TS", do not set too close, allow some movement.

[Gwhite]

Thank you for the additional notes. I had always meant to go back and add some more detailed verbiage on the adjustment process, but never got around to it. I certainly never meant to suggest that anyone reduce the sear travel anywhere near enough to to cause an unsafe condition. I'm not even sure there is enough adjustment to do that. I've never heard of anyone using these drawings having a problem getting a safe trigger with the trigger action they were looking for.

[David M]

The Pardini, FWB and Styer triggers are the ones most offen repaired/reset of all the pistols I work on.
Shooters just like to fiddle without knowing how their trigger works.
Worst of all are Rapidfire shooters and coachs.

[Gwhite]

At the urging of a few new Pardini owners, I finally got around to cleaning up the notes to go with the diagrams...

Pardini SP Trigger Adjustment Notes.pdf

(320.38 KiB) Downloaded 707 times

[David M]

[BobGee]

+1

Bob

[Korp]

Used the pictures when setting upp my SP a year and a half ago and now it's time to setup my new HP. Great work!