Disclaimer # 1: I really have tried to no avail to search TT archives for answers to the following questions.
Disclaimer #2: I am four months into 10 meter AP, learning on my own because of where I live, and am truly as unknowledgeable (sounds better than ignorant) as my questions probably indicate.
Until recently I have avoided making any adjustments to my fully adjustable pistol in order to try to learn some basics. After some steady improvement and then some “relapses” back to where I started, I am exploring adjustments to the pistol. The reason for grip and sight radius adjustments I get. What I don’t get is the 1st and 2nd stage trigger adjustments. These are my questions:
1. What is the 1st trigger stage?
2. What is the 2nd trigger stage?
3. Why would I want to adjust “travel?”
4. Why adjust 2nd stage trigger pull weight? Isn’t it mandatory under the international 10 meter rules that the trigger pull be 500 grams? If so, why would it be necessary to have one trigger pull for first stage and a different pull weight for the second stage?
1st and 2nd stage trigger adjustments
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Read this and see if it helps: http://www.pilkguns.com/c9.shtml. The bottom line is that for a new shooter it is probably better to leave the trigger adjustments untouched-especially sear engagement.
I just tried the link and it did not work. If that is the case, go to www.pilkguns.com and click on the "Coaching and Info" tab. Then select "Hitchhiker's Guide" and drop down to "How To Make Your New Pistol User Friendly". This contains some basic information. As a new shooter, you would do well to read all of the Hitchhiker articles.
Trigger Stages
I was hoping that one of the experts would jump in and answer this, but since no one has I’ll give it my best shot. A two stage trigger is one that has two distinct steps (stages) in it to break the shot. The total force required to fire the shot is the sum of the forces for stages one and two. For international air pistol the total force cannot be less than 500 grams. Most shooters set their trigger weight somewhat above this to avoid any chance of disqualification.
Stage one is what I call pre-travel (or slack, or take-up) and does nothing to move the sear and fire the shot. Some guns have a separate spring for stage one, some not (e.g. IZH-46M).
Stage two is where you actually begin to apply force to move the sear and ultimately fire the shot.
Many air pistols provide screws that allow you to separately adjust the stage one and two forces as well as the amount of travel in each stage. There is even another adjustment for the amount of trigger movement after the shot breaks, which I call over-travel. Finally, there is usually a screw for adjusting sear engagement which is best left untouched. All of these adjustments are preset at the factory for what they think is safe and “normal”. Until you gain some experience and understanding of what these adjustments do and how they interact, you probably are better off leaving them alone-not that we all pay attention to that advice. If you do decide to start playing with the screws, it is very much a matter of personal preference where you set them. I would caution you against setting stage two too light, however, because it may be very difficult to control.
I hope this primer is helpful. Good shooting.
Stage one is what I call pre-travel (or slack, or take-up) and does nothing to move the sear and fire the shot. Some guns have a separate spring for stage one, some not (e.g. IZH-46M).
Stage two is where you actually begin to apply force to move the sear and ultimately fire the shot.
Many air pistols provide screws that allow you to separately adjust the stage one and two forces as well as the amount of travel in each stage. There is even another adjustment for the amount of trigger movement after the shot breaks, which I call over-travel. Finally, there is usually a screw for adjusting sear engagement which is best left untouched. All of these adjustments are preset at the factory for what they think is safe and “normal”. Until you gain some experience and understanding of what these adjustments do and how they interact, you probably are better off leaving them alone-not that we all pay attention to that advice. If you do decide to start playing with the screws, it is very much a matter of personal preference where you set them. I would caution you against setting stage two too light, however, because it may be very difficult to control.
I hope this primer is helpful. Good shooting.