Mike !
I had the same problem last week. I used a torx bits and hammered it cearfully (with a light hammer) to the bottom of the hexscrew. If this will slip, the screw must be seated extreemly hard. Now I'am at work, but when I'am at home again I can see the size of torx i used. I used a torx of good quality so I was sure to reshape the hexscrew and not the bit. After this the screw had the look of a torxscrew, so I will just use them like this.
Tor
Looking for help with Pardini SPnew
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Pardini HP
Hello!
I used torx T10. I also send a picture mostly for testing how to make a picture in the forum.
Tor Ingvaldsen
I used torx T10. I also send a picture mostly for testing how to make a picture in the forum.
Tor Ingvaldsen
Torx
Tor,
Thanks for the picture and the description. I had tried a T9 Torx bit, which fits into the 2 mm hex socket fairly readily. However, even with light tapping to set the bit into the hex socket, it ultimately spun in the socket (the screw did not move), albeit after being subjected to a pretty hefty torque.
The T10 bit is about equal to an M3 hex socket and seems somewhat oversize for the M2 hex socket. Since it worked for you, I will give it a try.
An earlier post suggested that the resistance to removal of the screw was due to binding of the screw head (on the cover plate?) rather than binding of the screw thread in the tapped hole in the housing. I believe the latter is my problem (galling between steel threads and aluminum housing). What did you find?
Mike T.
Thanks for the picture and the description. I had tried a T9 Torx bit, which fits into the 2 mm hex socket fairly readily. However, even with light tapping to set the bit into the hex socket, it ultimately spun in the socket (the screw did not move), albeit after being subjected to a pretty hefty torque.
The T10 bit is about equal to an M3 hex socket and seems somewhat oversize for the M2 hex socket. Since it worked for you, I will give it a try.
An earlier post suggested that the resistance to removal of the screw was due to binding of the screw head (on the cover plate?) rather than binding of the screw thread in the tapped hole in the housing. I believe the latter is my problem (galling between steel threads and aluminum housing). What did you find?
Mike T.
Success
Yes, I got those troublesome screws loose. I tried the T10 Torx bit (which is closer to an M2.5 hex than an M3) as Tor suggested. I did hammer the bit somewhat aggressively (for such a small bit) and I can see that the tip of the Torx bit deformed more than the socket in the screw head. I think it was the hammering that did it (loosened the screw) more than the Torx bit, but whatever, it worked.
No sign of galling of the threads. No sign of corrosion.
The springs were forward and the weights to the back - just as I had noted in my diary.
I'll try to get some regular socket head cap screws to replace the button-head ones that came with the gun because the former have a larger size hex socket.
Now I can experiment with the spring and weight configuration to see if I can reduce the muzzle jump to a level commensurate with that of the MG2 and the KSP200.
Thanks again to all who offered assistance. This TT board is a great resource.
Mike T.
PS - Tor, the bore in that barrel looks a little large compared to my SP:-)
Is your pistol the HP?
No sign of galling of the threads. No sign of corrosion.
The springs were forward and the weights to the back - just as I had noted in my diary.
I'll try to get some regular socket head cap screws to replace the button-head ones that came with the gun because the former have a larger size hex socket.
Now I can experiment with the spring and weight configuration to see if I can reduce the muzzle jump to a level commensurate with that of the MG2 and the KSP200.
Thanks again to all who offered assistance. This TT board is a great resource.
Mike T.
PS - Tor, the bore in that barrel looks a little large compared to my SP:-)
Is your pistol the HP?