Morini 162EI sight adjustment
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Morini 162EI sight adjustment
Hi,
I've just purchaced a new Morini pistol and on arrival home, where I have a 10m range shot a group straight out of the box, the MPI was about 20mm left of the centre, I started to wind on a correction to the right but the sight suddenly hit a stop and will adjust no further. I shot another group with the MPI inside the 10 ring but still 3.8mm left of centre.
Surely it can't be normal to have so little adjustment?
Andy
I've just purchaced a new Morini pistol and on arrival home, where I have a 10m range shot a group straight out of the box, the MPI was about 20mm left of the centre, I started to wind on a correction to the right but the sight suddenly hit a stop and will adjust no further. I shot another group with the MPI inside the 10 ring but still 3.8mm left of centre.
Surely it can't be normal to have so little adjustment?
Andy
Try opening and closing the rear sight notch width--- I forget which screw changes that---read the manual---It could be that the final test may have moved that width and the sight didn't return to"centre". If that fails try to bench the gun and see if it isn't you---after failing that return the gun to the vendor for an adjustment.
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The problem is that adjusting the rear notch width only moves the right hand blade (I think for all of the adjustment but possibly only for the last bit).
If the rear sight notch is too wide the right hand blade will have been forced up against the side stop and you will not therefore have any sideways adjustment left. Try reducing the width of the notch.
If the rear sight notch is too wide the right hand blade will have been forced up against the side stop and you will not therefore have any sideways adjustment left. Try reducing the width of the notch.
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Hi,
Thanks David and Bob, I've benched the pistol with a small rear notch and still have only 7 clicks adjutment right available when the sights are spot on as David says less if the notch is wider. I like what seems like almost half the front site width each side and that just doesn't look possible with this Morini but it was on my old M10.
Surely a top end pistol should not be so limited?
Andy
Thanks David and Bob, I've benched the pistol with a small rear notch and still have only 7 clicks adjutment right available when the sights are spot on as David says less if the notch is wider. I like what seems like almost half the front site width each side and that just doesn't look possible with this Morini but it was on my old M10.
Surely a top end pistol should not be so limited?
Andy
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1. Sight down the pistol and determine the front sight is centered on the barrel. The sight assembly mounts, using a set screw, into a barrel indentation.
2. Check the front sight width. If it is too wide, the rear sight correction could push the limits. Most shooter seem to prefer a front sight width equal to the width of the target "black" at full arm extension. Different front sight inserts are available.
3. I checked my Morini. With my desired front sight, the left rear sight blade appears to be set a bit left of center. The left sight blade hangs about 2mm beyond the edge of the sight blade housing, while the right sight blade edge hangs even with the right side of the sight blade housing.
4. If all else fails, ask Scott.
2. Check the front sight width. If it is too wide, the rear sight correction could push the limits. Most shooter seem to prefer a front sight width equal to the width of the target "black" at full arm extension. Different front sight inserts are available.
3. I checked my Morini. With my desired front sight, the left rear sight blade appears to be set a bit left of center. The left sight blade hangs about 2mm beyond the edge of the sight blade housing, while the right sight blade edge hangs even with the right side of the sight blade housing.
4. If all else fails, ask Scott.
O.K., I had to go through soem fine tuning on my new 162E. I have a 6mm front blade (barn door) and use about 1/3 the front width on either side (open barn doors) on a sub six hold (front sight on bottom edge of barn doors).
Bad eyes.
Anyhow, I first noticed that it appeared as though I could have either wide notch, or centered notch, but not both. I Feel Your Pain.
If you aren't comfortable chasing little springy bits around your house, stop now and send to Scott.
Assuming you are prepared to completely disassemble your rear sight assembly, do so now. When you get to the point where the rear notch sub assembly is "free," you will note that (oh by the way, put that spring that just went flying across the room in a Safe Place. And yeah, hope you got a real good look at exactly how it is supposed to go back in cause it's real easy to do it wrong) the two halves of the blade can be rotated along the two-threaded rod piece they are attached to. The rod is counter threaded (IIRC) so screwing them in the same direction actually moves them in tandem along the rod left-right; screwing them in opposite directions makes them either closer together or farther apart.
Hope you counted the number of clicks used when disassembling the rear sight assembly . . . this comes in real handy later so you can tell whether or not you actually amde things better before reassembling the whole danged thing to find out you actually just made it worse! As you unscrew the rear blade subassembly using the L/R adjustment screw you are creeping the two blade halves along the double-threaded rod at the same time. This gets clearer here in a paragraph or two.
Once the rear blade subassembly is free, take a moment and admire the elegance of this engineering solution. No, seriously! Cussing out the design engineers right now isn't helping. It is a quite clever piece at that.
O.K., what you are trying to do is get the blades wide apart, but way over on the left side of the rod. When you screw the rod-blades subassembly back in, you want there to be enough threads left to get the RH blade over to the RH side without running out of thread.
This is really hard to explain without your actually seeing it.
You will have to flop the left blade >>out<< (notch wider!) a few revolutions (how many is a few? wish I knew. I didn't follow the advice I'm giving you right now; I had to Find Out The Hard Way). ANyhow, I think two or three revolutions should do it . . . oops, the left blade just popped off the rod! O.K., one less than that then. Stiff upper lip now; back at it!
Anyhow, be prepared to fiddle with this several times installing/tweaking/re-installing before you get it just right.
Steve "Not Really A Gun Mechanic" Swartz
p.s. industrial magnets are very handy for locating springy things after they dance about your workshop
Bad eyes.
Anyhow, I first noticed that it appeared as though I could have either wide notch, or centered notch, but not both. I Feel Your Pain.
If you aren't comfortable chasing little springy bits around your house, stop now and send to Scott.
Assuming you are prepared to completely disassemble your rear sight assembly, do so now. When you get to the point where the rear notch sub assembly is "free," you will note that (oh by the way, put that spring that just went flying across the room in a Safe Place. And yeah, hope you got a real good look at exactly how it is supposed to go back in cause it's real easy to do it wrong) the two halves of the blade can be rotated along the two-threaded rod piece they are attached to. The rod is counter threaded (IIRC) so screwing them in the same direction actually moves them in tandem along the rod left-right; screwing them in opposite directions makes them either closer together or farther apart.
Hope you counted the number of clicks used when disassembling the rear sight assembly . . . this comes in real handy later so you can tell whether or not you actually amde things better before reassembling the whole danged thing to find out you actually just made it worse! As you unscrew the rear blade subassembly using the L/R adjustment screw you are creeping the two blade halves along the double-threaded rod at the same time. This gets clearer here in a paragraph or two.
Once the rear blade subassembly is free, take a moment and admire the elegance of this engineering solution. No, seriously! Cussing out the design engineers right now isn't helping. It is a quite clever piece at that.
O.K., what you are trying to do is get the blades wide apart, but way over on the left side of the rod. When you screw the rod-blades subassembly back in, you want there to be enough threads left to get the RH blade over to the RH side without running out of thread.
This is really hard to explain without your actually seeing it.
You will have to flop the left blade >>out<< (notch wider!) a few revolutions (how many is a few? wish I knew. I didn't follow the advice I'm giving you right now; I had to Find Out The Hard Way). ANyhow, I think two or three revolutions should do it . . . oops, the left blade just popped off the rod! O.K., one less than that then. Stiff upper lip now; back at it!
Anyhow, be prepared to fiddle with this several times installing/tweaking/re-installing before you get it just right.
Steve "Not Really A Gun Mechanic" Swartz
p.s. industrial magnets are very handy for locating springy things after they dance about your workshop
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Hi,
With the gun zeroed I have the right blade protruding by 2.4mm and the left by 1.2mm with a 5.4mm notch.
Full right adjustment gives a right overhang of 2.93mm can anyone else confirm their overhang with full right correction, then I will know there is no physical fault with the sights.
I'm reasonably happy with the sight picture and my last two ten shot strings were a 94 and a 96, I'm now just left a little concerned at how little adjutment remains.
Steve, having seen the "inside" of the sight I can follow your method, it would result in a wider notch but as the left leaf moves left on its own the center of the notch will also move left requiring a right hand correction of both leaves to maintain zero and its this correction that is limited.
The Mk1 eyeball suggests everything is straight and removing one of the set screws that hold the barrel show it is correctly located in a pocket in the barrel.
Thanks all,
Andy
With the gun zeroed I have the right blade protruding by 2.4mm and the left by 1.2mm with a 5.4mm notch.
Full right adjustment gives a right overhang of 2.93mm can anyone else confirm their overhang with full right correction, then I will know there is no physical fault with the sights.
I'm reasonably happy with the sight picture and my last two ten shot strings were a 94 and a 96, I'm now just left a little concerned at how little adjutment remains.
Steve, having seen the "inside" of the sight I can follow your method, it would result in a wider notch but as the left leaf moves left on its own the center of the notch will also move left requiring a right hand correction of both leaves to maintain zero and its this correction that is limited.
The Mk1 eyeball suggests everything is straight and removing one of the set screws that hold the barrel show it is correctly located in a pocket in the barrel.
Thanks all,
Andy
Andy:
I'm not suggesting yoiu move the sights at all . . . I'm suggesting that you move the *rod* connecting the two leaves of the rear sight blades.
In order to get more R adjustment, yoiu need to move the *rod* over to the right (exposing more thread on the RH side).
The only way to move the rod to the right is to move the blades, as a unit, to the left . . .
Steve Swartz
I'm not suggesting yoiu move the sights at all . . . I'm suggesting that you move the *rod* connecting the two leaves of the rear sight blades.
In order to get more R adjustment, yoiu need to move the *rod* over to the right (exposing more thread on the RH side).
The only way to move the rod to the right is to move the blades, as a unit, to the left . . .
Steve Swartz
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Andy:
Hmm not exactly- maybe I didn't understand what you were saying. I think the best way to do it is to see it with your own eyes- I haven't been able to find any pictures/diagrams (should have taken some/made some myself!) or I would point you to those. The issue is running out of threaded section/compressing spring before getting the results you want; complicated by having two separate adjustment screw heads.
Mine ended up being centered (with only about 4-5 more clicks right available) with a 6mm wide notch and 2mm of "ears" hanging over both the right and left sides.
Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Take notes and pictures, adn draw diagrams!
Steve
Hmm not exactly- maybe I didn't understand what you were saying. I think the best way to do it is to see it with your own eyes- I haven't been able to find any pictures/diagrams (should have taken some/made some myself!) or I would point you to those. The issue is running out of threaded section/compressing spring before getting the results you want; complicated by having two separate adjustment screw heads.
Mine ended up being centered (with only about 4-5 more clicks right available) with a 6mm wide notch and 2mm of "ears" hanging over both the right and left sides.
Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Take notes and pictures, adn draw diagrams!
Steve
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He's right/right Warren.Warren wrote:Andy, just as a matter of interest, are you cross-dominant (do you shoot right arm, left eye or vice versa? In the past that's the only time I've seen the windage thing be an issue on a Morini.
I had the same problem and I am also right/right.
The notch width was the problem for me too.