Could someone please answer the following questions? What are the major differences between the Hammerli models 103-107? What is the model with the round barrel, satin finish, and round trigger guard? Are the triggers and accuracy good? Are there any drawbacks in choosing one of these older models for someone who is an occassional free pistol shooter with a low classification?
TIA
Older Hammerli Free Pistols
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The big difference in the series is the refinement of the set trigger and its potential for adjustments. The earlier models don't have the adjustable shoe position. Some have a screw in the trigger itself which gives adjustment for trigger reach. It seems that some models were retrofitted with these various trigger parts, so it can be hard to discrern which model specifically has what.
Accuracy is excellent, triggers when properly tuned are also excellent. The grips are definitely old-school, but much better than the TOZ factory grips, for most humans.
The two big features separating them from newer free pistols are: 1) the passive firing pin. By this, I mean a floating firing pin which is struck by an internal hammer, much like a sport pistol. The ignition time is thus longer. This means follow through is of paramount importance. Any flaw here can be punishing. 2) The bore line sits higher in the hand. Recoil is more upward than straight back. Also this means the center of gravity is high, (not to be confused with forward or back). On the plus side, canting will have less negative impact, as the sight line and bore line are very close.
Parts can be a bit hard to find, but Larry Carter has a great reputation for keeping these guns running. He could probably atest to the fact that there are many shooters who are quite loyal to the old 100 series.
Our host has a Hammerli on the used page that looks quite nice and is priced right. Have you shot one? Do you like it? Do you have a line on one for a good price? If so, for your stated purpose, you'd probably be very happy with one.
Hope this helps.
Accuracy is excellent, triggers when properly tuned are also excellent. The grips are definitely old-school, but much better than the TOZ factory grips, for most humans.
The two big features separating them from newer free pistols are: 1) the passive firing pin. By this, I mean a floating firing pin which is struck by an internal hammer, much like a sport pistol. The ignition time is thus longer. This means follow through is of paramount importance. Any flaw here can be punishing. 2) The bore line sits higher in the hand. Recoil is more upward than straight back. Also this means the center of gravity is high, (not to be confused with forward or back). On the plus side, canting will have less negative impact, as the sight line and bore line are very close.
Parts can be a bit hard to find, but Larry Carter has a great reputation for keeping these guns running. He could probably atest to the fact that there are many shooters who are quite loyal to the old 100 series.
Our host has a Hammerli on the used page that looks quite nice and is priced right. Have you shot one? Do you like it? Do you have a line on one for a good price? If so, for your stated purpose, you'd probably be very happy with one.
Hope this helps.
100 series Hammerlis
I have limited experience with only one 100 series Hammerli which belongs to a friend, but that experience raises a warning flag. The gun in question, in excellent condition, and thoroughly checked over by the former USA Hammerli-authorized repair station, has an impossibly light trigger weight which cannot be increased.
As a result, the owner, a would-be occasional FP shooter, simply cannot use the gun. To use a gun with such a light trigger weight, one would have to spend a good deal of time training with it, which he is unwilling to do. So, if you are looking at buying such a gun, check the trigger weight adjustability.
HTH,
FredB
As a result, the owner, a would-be occasional FP shooter, simply cannot use the gun. To use a gun with such a light trigger weight, one would have to spend a good deal of time training with it, which he is unwilling to do. So, if you are looking at buying such a gun, check the trigger weight adjustability.
HTH,
FredB
You have several options. 1) the existing grip can be opened up and/or puttied. No biggie since grip work is part of the FP game. 2) get a new grip. Arnie Vitarbo still makes grips himself. He charges about $150, last I heard (2 yrs ago). 3) You can import a gun from Potter firearms in Australia. This is not too bad a proposition. The exchange rate is very favorable. Also, Warren at Pilkguns could answer questions. There is import/export info on the potfire website.
4) You could check with Larry Carter in Maine. He may have a line on something. He had a number listed recently on his used page for good prices.
Best wishes,
Jim
4) You could check with Larry Carter in Maine. He may have a line on something. He had a number listed recently on his used page for good prices.
Best wishes,
Jim