Cleaning A Morini 162EI Barrel
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Cleaning A Morini 162EI Barrel
I would like to know how to clean the barrel of the Morini 162EI with felt pellets. I'm particularly interested in knowing if one is to remove the muzzle brake to gain access to the muzzle crown in order to insert the felt pellets.
Anxiously awaiting replies.
Matt
Anxiously awaiting replies.
Matt
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Morini Cleaning
NO.
Insert the felt pellet just like a lead pellet, maybe with a little cleaner first and after and shoot it.
Insert the felt pellet just like a lead pellet, maybe with a little cleaner first and after and shoot it.
Re: Cleaning A Morini 162EI Barrel
My question has been answered by Scott.
Thank you.
Thank you.
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Felt Pellets
When I use felt pellets to clean the bore, I spray then with Rem-Oil and insert them in the barrel from the breech end. Puch them forward and then load a pellet behind the felt pellet. Then fire the pistol or rifle. Most of the time I use a pull through, but once in a while, if I am in a hurry, the felt pellets with a normal pellet behind it will work pretty well.
Respectfully,
Bubba
Respectfully,
Bubba
pull-throughs
Dan
You really should NOT use a pull through on your gun. The pull though cord will pick up abrasives which will wear your gun in the worst possible place --- the muzzle.
The British army has known about "cord wear" from the use of pull-throughs for at least one hundred years.
hope this helps
ben
You really should NOT use a pull through on your gun. The pull though cord will pick up abrasives which will wear your gun in the worst possible place --- the muzzle.
The British army has known about "cord wear" from the use of pull-throughs for at least one hundred years.
hope this helps
ben
barrel cleaning
Not restricted to the UK, Ben.
The military style of pull-through-cord cleaning originated back in the days of (badly) corroding ammo. Thorough cleaning was a must back then.
I remember back in the late 60s when typically one soldier was instructed to hold at the rear of the gun (a gas operated Garand by us) and another holding the barrel. Then both wold pull the jag attached to the cord in and out of the barrel. Wear at the muzzle was evident usually, the muzzle often appeared oval, and accuracy suffered, no doubt. But the barrels were clean!
Cleaning (and reliability) was more important than accuracy, not much accuracy is needed to hit a target at normal combat range.
I clean my airguns by shooting felt wads through the barrel. One or two oiled ones, then a few dry ones.
Some top (airrifle) shooters claim the barrels do noe get really clean this way, and at least one is using a plastics pull-through "cord" very carfully.
One manufacturer of cleaning pellets (or wads) offers preoiled wads impregnated with what appears to be "brass-dust". This will clean the barrel better, according to the manufacturer. And as brass is softer than steel, there will be little wear.
The military style of pull-through-cord cleaning originated back in the days of (badly) corroding ammo. Thorough cleaning was a must back then.
I remember back in the late 60s when typically one soldier was instructed to hold at the rear of the gun (a gas operated Garand by us) and another holding the barrel. Then both wold pull the jag attached to the cord in and out of the barrel. Wear at the muzzle was evident usually, the muzzle often appeared oval, and accuracy suffered, no doubt. But the barrels were clean!
Cleaning (and reliability) was more important than accuracy, not much accuracy is needed to hit a target at normal combat range.
I clean my airguns by shooting felt wads through the barrel. One or two oiled ones, then a few dry ones.
Some top (airrifle) shooters claim the barrels do noe get really clean this way, and at least one is using a plastics pull-through "cord" very carfully.
One manufacturer of cleaning pellets (or wads) offers preoiled wads impregnated with what appears to be "brass-dust". This will clean the barrel better, according to the manufacturer. And as brass is softer than steel, there will be little wear.
- Fred Mannis
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Cleaning with a pull through
I clean my LP1 and LP50 1-2/year with a nylon cord pull thru. I use a short length of brass tubing inserted into the barrel shroud/compensator to protect the muzzle.
Unlike a firearm, pickup of abrasive material by the nylon cord should be minimal in an AP environment. I wipe the cord after each use and store it in a closed container.
Unlike a firearm, pickup of abrasive material by the nylon cord should be minimal in an AP environment. I wipe the cord after each use and store it in a closed container.
Re: Cleaning with a pull through
Don Nygord used to sell a air pistol cleaning kit. Consisted of some patches, TS-301 (for use in the bore), CLP (for exterior use) and a nylon pull through.
He commented to me that the little bit of cleaning that an AP needs is best done with a pull through. I perform this once every two tins on my Pardini.
I can't imagine that the careful use of a nylon pull through would damage steel. I also know that given the relatively low velocities / no powder / no primer ... that high-end air pistols need cleaning very sparingly.
My 2 cents ...
Victor
He commented to me that the little bit of cleaning that an AP needs is best done with a pull through. I perform this once every two tins on my Pardini.
I can't imagine that the careful use of a nylon pull through would damage steel. I also know that given the relatively low velocities / no powder / no primer ... that high-end air pistols need cleaning very sparingly.
My 2 cents ...
Victor
The Morini 162 EI is a pre compressed air pistol, be careful using any oil with high pressure air. You may find your pistol acting like an old diesel engine and detonating.
The enemy of most air pistols is not lead and rubbish build up, but moisture and surface rust.
As air is expanded firing the shot, any moisture will condense in the barrel and can cause very fine surface rusting.
After shooting, fire a couple of cleaning felts down the barrel to remove most of the buildup and moisture.
For a full barrel clean I use the VFG cleaning system of felt pads on a plastic cleaning rod with the VFG paste to lube the barrel.
You will be amased how much surface rust can build up.
The enemy of most air pistols is not lead and rubbish build up, but moisture and surface rust.
As air is expanded firing the shot, any moisture will condense in the barrel and can cause very fine surface rusting.
After shooting, fire a couple of cleaning felts down the barrel to remove most of the buildup and moisture.
For a full barrel clean I use the VFG cleaning system of felt pads on a plastic cleaning rod with the VFG paste to lube the barrel.
You will be amased how much surface rust can build up.
I would question the 'requirement' to shoot felt pellets so frequently and would imagine this is likely to cause more problems than it solves. You may get a small amount of moisture coming out in a cold barrel but they soon warm up. Also a pellet will wipe off most of that condensed moisture (from the previous shot) as it travels down the barrel as will a burst of compressed air. What I'm saying is that water will not really accumulate in a barrel during ordinary shooting and it's far more likely if the gun is stored in somewhere cold or damp.David M wrote:As air is expanded firing the shot, any moisture will condense in the barrel and can cause very fine surface rusting.
After shooting, fire a couple of cleaning felts down the barrel to remove most of the buildup and moisture.
For a full barrel clean I use the VFG cleaning system of felt pads on a plastic cleaning rod with the VFG paste to lube the barrel.
You will be amased how much surface rust can build up.
My barrel (LP10) has been cleaned once in the manner you descibe and there was zero rust - that was after a couple of years heavy use so
As discussed in previous threads the loose fibres in the felts can cause problems with the seals and/or the air port. I seem to recall this is one of the major causes of guns failing so is not an activity to be done too frequently (IMHO).
Rob.
When I bought my first high end air pistol it was a FWB Model 100 which I purchased from Beeman Precision. I didn't know anyone who shot air pistols and had no idea of how to care for it.
When it arrived it came with a typed note stating that single stroke pneumatic air guns would collect moisture in the barrel due to the residual moisture in the air when compressed.
The instructions further stated that after every shooting you should put Beeman oil on a felt pellet and insert it in the breach followed by a dry pellet. Firing these two felt pellets would clean the moisture from the barrel and leave a coat of oil to prevent rust which was sure to occure if this proceedure was not followed.
I did this faithfully for about five months, shooting the pistol on a range in my basement about once session a week. Then the pistol would no longer hold air so with my "Beeman Lifetime Repair Policy" I sent it back to Beeman for repairs.
After a few days I called Beeman to learn the status of my pistol. I was told that they had inspected it and it was completely worn out. I asked how I as a recreational shooted who only shot once a week wore out an International Class target pistol in only a few months of casual shooting and was told that the felt pellets had shed particles which got into the valve and the oil I was told to use rotted the seals. I asked what it would take to repair it and they quoted a figure which gave me sticker shock. I then told them that I was following the instructions they had sent with the pistol and since the pistol has fairly new I thought they should repair it under warrentee.
They were reluctent to do that so I told them that the pistol must be a #@%&&$#@@ and probably wasn't worth fixing anyway and that they should take it and %$#@@@^%$#.
The next morning I got a NDA package via FEDEX with my pistol repaired and no bill. I shot it for about eight years without any maintenance other that to lubricate the pivot points and never had any trouble with it after that. I never put another felt pellet through any of my air guns.
I've owned many air pistols and a few air rifles since then and have never had a problem with any of them. I wipe them off after shooting but don't mess with the inside of the barrel except in extreme circumstances.
This is my experience. Others may do what they feel is necessary.
Doug in Virginia
When it arrived it came with a typed note stating that single stroke pneumatic air guns would collect moisture in the barrel due to the residual moisture in the air when compressed.
The instructions further stated that after every shooting you should put Beeman oil on a felt pellet and insert it in the breach followed by a dry pellet. Firing these two felt pellets would clean the moisture from the barrel and leave a coat of oil to prevent rust which was sure to occure if this proceedure was not followed.
I did this faithfully for about five months, shooting the pistol on a range in my basement about once session a week. Then the pistol would no longer hold air so with my "Beeman Lifetime Repair Policy" I sent it back to Beeman for repairs.
After a few days I called Beeman to learn the status of my pistol. I was told that they had inspected it and it was completely worn out. I asked how I as a recreational shooted who only shot once a week wore out an International Class target pistol in only a few months of casual shooting and was told that the felt pellets had shed particles which got into the valve and the oil I was told to use rotted the seals. I asked what it would take to repair it and they quoted a figure which gave me sticker shock. I then told them that I was following the instructions they had sent with the pistol and since the pistol has fairly new I thought they should repair it under warrentee.
They were reluctent to do that so I told them that the pistol must be a #@%&&$#@@ and probably wasn't worth fixing anyway and that they should take it and %$#@@@^%$#.
The next morning I got a NDA package via FEDEX with my pistol repaired and no bill. I shot it for about eight years without any maintenance other that to lubricate the pivot points and never had any trouble with it after that. I never put another felt pellet through any of my air guns.
I've owned many air pistols and a few air rifles since then and have never had a problem with any of them. I wipe them off after shooting but don't mess with the inside of the barrel except in extreme circumstances.
This is my experience. Others may do what they feel is necessary.
Doug in Virginia
felt pellets or not...
Thank you, VAshooter for this information.
It never stroke my mind that microscopic particles from the felt pellets could ruin a good AP in short time.
I will recover from the bottom of my carpet that old nylon pull-through "cord" i bought 25 years back, and hardly ever used.
Seems our top air rifle shooters, always using their nylon cords only, were kind of smart.
And condensated water do collect in air guns, especially in warm and humid climates. For same reason high pressure pumps should not be used often to fill cylinders. The dehumidifiers, buildt into some pumps, are not very efficient. Go for the scuba tanks.
It never stroke my mind that microscopic particles from the felt pellets could ruin a good AP in short time.
I will recover from the bottom of my carpet that old nylon pull-through "cord" i bought 25 years back, and hardly ever used.
Seems our top air rifle shooters, always using their nylon cords only, were kind of smart.
And condensated water do collect in air guns, especially in warm and humid climates. For same reason high pressure pumps should not be used often to fill cylinders. The dehumidifiers, buildt into some pumps, are not very efficient. Go for the scuba tanks.
Precharged air guns do not suffer from dieseling when used in conjunction with oils. Spring powered guns do suffer from this but the build up of pressure with a PCP is a lot more gradual. Spinger guns should use a wax based lubricant such as furniture polish to prevent dieseling. Not really relevent here though.David M wrote:The Morini 162 EI is a pre compressed air pistol, be careful using any oil with high pressure air. You may find your pistol acting like an old diesel engine and detonating.
The enemy of most air pistols is not lead and rubbish build up, but moisture and surface rust.
As air is expanded firing the shot, any moisture will condense in the barrel and can cause very fine surface rusting.
After shooting, fire a couple of cleaning felts down the barrel to remove most of the buildup and moisture.
For a full barrel clean I use the VFG cleaning system of felt pads on a plastic cleaning rod with the VFG paste to lube the barrel.
You will be amased how much surface rust can build up.
- Fred Mannis
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- Joined: Sun Aug 29, 2004 8:37 pm
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Re: To Pump or Not
As has been pointed out on TT in the past - the air gun manufacturers allow the use of hand pumps in refilling the cylinder. The use of a pump does not void the warranty. I have never seen any data to support the non-use of a hand pump due to moisture.El Sequndo wrote: And condensated water do collect in air guns, especially in warm and humid climates. For same reason high pressure pumps should not be used often to fill cylinders. The dehumidifiers, buildt into some pumps, are not very efficient. Go for the scuba tanks.
Risk of heart attack for us seniors is another matter :-)
pumps do introduce corrosion
Fred: I will just refer to a post by mr. Leevene a few days back. Her he comments malfunctions of Steyr PCA cylinders from by corrosion caused by humidity in the cylinders. Humidity introduced by pumps.
Compressors sertified for the filling of scuba tanks are delivering air drier than the driest desert air.
The floor-pumps, on the other hand....
Say no more.
Compressors sertified for the filling of scuba tanks are delivering air drier than the driest desert air.
The floor-pumps, on the other hand....
Say no more.
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Re: To Pump or Not
The manufacturers naturally allow the use of hand pumps. Not to do so would immediately curtail sales to those who cannot guarantee the availability of divers' air whenever they need it.Fred Mannis wrote:As has been pointed out on TT in the past - the air gun manufacturers allow the use of hand pumps in refilling the cylinder. The use of a pump does not void the warranty. I have never seen any data to support the non-use of a hand pump due to moisture.
Any internal damage would normally take longer to develop than the gun's warranty period.
Like you, I have not seen any supporting data. I have however seen the actual evidence. From a number of Steyr cylinders being stripped for repair by the UK service agent it was obvious which had been filled with a hand pump. They were the ones where the pressure indicator spring washers and nut had rusted.