TOZ 35M help
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TOZ 35M help
I'm starting to get lots of misfires on a 6 month old TOZ. It happens at least once in every 10 shots.
When I look at the misfire round, there is NO visible hit on it whatsoever. Different ammo yields the same results.
I have thoroughly cleaned the chamber and everything else I can access with a Q tip and pipe cleaners.
Question:
How do I field strip the TOZ? (I get a headache trying to figure it out from the Russian manual.) Is there a website with detailed instuctions??
What should I be looking for when I strip it down and clean it as the possible source of the misfire problem??
Thanks folks
When I look at the misfire round, there is NO visible hit on it whatsoever. Different ammo yields the same results.
I have thoroughly cleaned the chamber and everything else I can access with a Q tip and pipe cleaners.
Question:
How do I field strip the TOZ? (I get a headache trying to figure it out from the Russian manual.) Is there a website with detailed instuctions??
What should I be looking for when I strip it down and clean it as the possible source of the misfire problem??
Thanks folks
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- Posts: 103
- Joined: Mon Mar 15, 2004 7:33 am
- Location: Denver, CO
I can help...
Hey,
I live in Lakewood. I am sure many people in this forum would be able to explain the break-down process for you. If you need some help in person, just shoot me an email and we could plan a meet.
Mike Douglass
I live in Lakewood. I am sure many people in this forum would be able to explain the break-down process for you. If you need some help in person, just shoot me an email and we could plan a meet.
Mike Douglass
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- Posts: 583
- Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 8:35 am
- Location: The Frigid North - Ottawa, Canada
Fieldstripping a TOZ35
Stripping the TOZ is quite easy. Steps are as follows:
1) ensure gun is unloaded! OK, so that was obvious, but you might be surprised by the number of folks who forget this most critical step.
2) Remove both halves of the grips (two screws in each half)
3) Locate the hinge pin about which the breachbolt hinges - it's at the top rear of the receiver. Drift this pin out the right side of the receiver with the factory-supplied punch. The breach bolt is now very close to falling out in your yand.
4) wiggle the cocking lever and slowly work the breach bolt out of the pistol - don't drop it as it makes a very expensive "thunk" when it hits the concrete floor.
5) disassemble the breach bolt using factory-provided slot screwdriver. Turn the screw in the rear of the breach bolt counterclockwise until the mainspring pushes the screw out toward you. Be careful not to lose any parts or damage the "pigtail" spring on the bottom of the breachbolt. This step is MUCH easier to perform if the mainspring is not cocked (ie if the firing pin is fully forward)
Now that you've got it all apart, very thoroughly clean the firing pin, the hole in which it travels and the sear mechanism. Check for a broken firing pin (push it fully forward in the breach block and see if it protrudes through the face of the breach block).
I might suggest 3 possible causes of the gun not firing, rated here from most likely to least likely (in my thoroughly uneducated opinion):
1) mainspring not being fully cocked when you extract the previously-fired case. This may be caused by any number of factors, including interference between the cocking lever and the wooden grip at the base of the grip.
2) severly dirty breach bolt preventing the firing pin from moving fully forward
3) broken firing pin
I would normally add a weak mainspring as a probable cause, but since you say you are getting no firing pin strike on the misfires, this likely isn't the case. With a weak spring you normally get some indication of the firing pin striking the case, just not hard enough to detonate the priming compound.
Hope this helps!
1) ensure gun is unloaded! OK, so that was obvious, but you might be surprised by the number of folks who forget this most critical step.
2) Remove both halves of the grips (two screws in each half)
3) Locate the hinge pin about which the breachbolt hinges - it's at the top rear of the receiver. Drift this pin out the right side of the receiver with the factory-supplied punch. The breach bolt is now very close to falling out in your yand.
4) wiggle the cocking lever and slowly work the breach bolt out of the pistol - don't drop it as it makes a very expensive "thunk" when it hits the concrete floor.
5) disassemble the breach bolt using factory-provided slot screwdriver. Turn the screw in the rear of the breach bolt counterclockwise until the mainspring pushes the screw out toward you. Be careful not to lose any parts or damage the "pigtail" spring on the bottom of the breachbolt. This step is MUCH easier to perform if the mainspring is not cocked (ie if the firing pin is fully forward)
Now that you've got it all apart, very thoroughly clean the firing pin, the hole in which it travels and the sear mechanism. Check for a broken firing pin (push it fully forward in the breach block and see if it protrudes through the face of the breach block).
I might suggest 3 possible causes of the gun not firing, rated here from most likely to least likely (in my thoroughly uneducated opinion):
1) mainspring not being fully cocked when you extract the previously-fired case. This may be caused by any number of factors, including interference between the cocking lever and the wooden grip at the base of the grip.
2) severly dirty breach bolt preventing the firing pin from moving fully forward
3) broken firing pin
I would normally add a weak mainspring as a probable cause, but since you say you are getting no firing pin strike on the misfires, this likely isn't the case. With a weak spring you normally get some indication of the firing pin striking the case, just not hard enough to detonate the priming compound.
Hope this helps!
TOZ
This should be done to prevent "short stroking" which is a common fault with the TOZ---the inner portion of Morini grips can hinder the full movement of the lever. Additionally, the striker spring, sear spring and the striker itself has to be examined----if you stripped the gun according the instructions above, these parts will be evident---my guess is that the striker itself needs to be replaced and while your at it the striker spring as well. Of course, be sure the inside of the breech is clean---DO NOT SPRAY ANY CLEANERS INTO THE GUN---KEEP OIL AT A BARE MINIMUM---. Hopefully with a replacement of the striker and striker spring the gun will not "misfire." It has been my experience as well that you should operate the martini lever with a some effort---weak operation of the lever will also case "short stroking"---which BTW does not set the striker which simply slides forward after a weak operation of the lever.ignatz wrote:I had to remove more wood inside my Morini grips so the cocking lever would move further back. Take one side of the grips off and you can see where the lever is restricted by the grips...Rob
TOZ no strike
Paul,
I went through same problem, cleaned and did everything I could. Discovered that there was were on the caming surfaces that prevented the breecblock from rising all the way into position. Firing pin strikes were at the exteme edge of the cartridge. Had to send gun to Scott Pilkington to have the caming surfaces built up.
I went through same problem, cleaned and did everything I could. Discovered that there was were on the caming surfaces that prevented the breecblock from rising all the way into position. Firing pin strikes were at the exteme edge of the cartridge. Had to send gun to Scott Pilkington to have the caming surfaces built up.