IZH 35 - Walther KSP
Moderators: rexifelis, pilkguns
IZH 35 - Walther KSP
What are the differences? is the Walther more reliable? I know the fit and finish is cleaner.
.49134.0
.49134.0
Re: IZH 35 - Walther KSP
Take and IZH 35, give it to a German guy or gal that knows his/her stuff about match pistols...let him/her tinker with it to work out all the little flaws, test it, adjust it some more, clean it up so it doesn't still have packing grease in it from the factory when you get it. Then get rid of the packing crate grips ala the IZH mainstay for all their guns ( I think they burn them in effigy at the Walther factory)...like the 46...put on a set of nice morini grips...fit those grips to perfection to the metal of the gun and you have the KSP.
.49147.49134
.49147.49134
Re: IZH 35 - Walther KSP
I dont think they make the KSP anymore. If not then the winner is IZH35M.
: Take and IZH 35, give it to a German guy or gal that knows his/her stuff about match pistols...let him/her tinker with it to work out all the little flaws, test it, adjust it some more, clean it up so it doesn't still have packing grease in it from the factory when you get it. Then get rid of the packing crate grips ala the IZH mainstay for all their guns ( I think they burn them in effigy at the Walther factory)...like the 46...put on a set of nice morini grips...fit those grips to perfection to the metal of the gun and you have the KSP.
shootingsports-at-ev1.net.49149.49147
: Take and IZH 35, give it to a German guy or gal that knows his/her stuff about match pistols...let him/her tinker with it to work out all the little flaws, test it, adjust it some more, clean it up so it doesn't still have packing grease in it from the factory when you get it. Then get rid of the packing crate grips ala the IZH mainstay for all their guns ( I think they burn them in effigy at the Walther factory)...like the 46...put on a set of nice morini grips...fit those grips to perfection to the metal of the gun and you have the KSP.
shootingsports-at-ev1.net.49149.49147
Re: IZH 35 - Walther KSP
I have not seen a Walther myself, but someone on another gun board who had bought both guns said the Walther was finished really about the same as the IZH, except for the couple obvious changes (grips, bolt hold open). And both our IZH's came quite clean, with very little grease. The greasiest parts were the magazine followers, coated with something approximating Vaseline--and I just wiped mine off, thanks. It takes great faith in the almighty to put solvent on unknown plastic parts.......
.49153.49147
.49153.49147
Re: IZH 35 - Walther KSP
I have a IZH35 and it shoots very well. I've made about 3.000 shots with it and never had a problem. I've seen walther having it, like loosing trigger weight screw and the bolt off lower shrowd. I've fitted my grip and most of the people like it more than the Morini one.
P.S.: Some time I forgot to clean for 2, 3 or even 4 weeks, and I shoot every weekend.
pr.azevedo-at-iol.pt.49154.49134
P.S.: Some time I forgot to clean for 2, 3 or even 4 weeks, and I shoot every weekend.
pr.azevedo-at-iol.pt.49154.49134
We've sold about 7 of the Walther about 20 of the IZH
All had the target proof mark from walther (the KSP) ...they were done very well. The grips were nicely done and much better than anything anyone could do with the IZH standard grips, then again that's what the difference really is. In talking to some of the folks that came up with the plan to do some of this, it's an issue of QC and QA...plus a great cleaning, and great grips.
I'm sure if a person is handy, bought their own grips, and could do minor fabrication...they would get near the same results.
Figure out the bolt hold open, put grips on the gun, tear it down and clean it, tweak it to the edge of what it is able to do...fix some of the bluing issues.
I think if you look at the FWB AW93 you will see much of the same heritage...but the gun costs quite a bit more....and for a real good reason, past labor.
.49155.49153
I'm sure if a person is handy, bought their own grips, and could do minor fabrication...they would get near the same results.
Figure out the bolt hold open, put grips on the gun, tear it down and clean it, tweak it to the edge of what it is able to do...fix some of the bluing issues.
I think if you look at the FWB AW93 you will see much of the same heritage...but the gun costs quite a bit more....and for a real good reason, past labor.
.49155.49153
IZH35 Barrel Screws
Go to a well equiped store that sells fasteners. Buy some 4 millimeter thread by 10 millimeter long socket head countersunk screws.
These will replace the shroud screws that came with the gun. They are harder, and the allen wrench heads will reduce the chance of slipping, and scratching the gun's fantastic (?) finish.
.49164.49154
These will replace the shroud screws that came with the gun. They are harder, and the allen wrench heads will reduce the chance of slipping, and scratching the gun's fantastic (?) finish.
.49164.49154
Re: IZH35 Barrel Screws
And I use a high torque setting on my drill motor and they stay snug a whole lot longer. If I tried that with the stock screws they would be stipped.
The after market hex screws are good for a while but the hex head is soft too.
: Go to a well equiped store that sells fasteners. Buy some 4 millimeter thread by 10 millimeter long socket head countersunk screws.
: These will replace the shroud screws that came with the gun. They are harder, and the allen wrench heads will reduce the chance of slipping, and scratching the gun's fantastic (?) finish.
shootingsports-at-ev1.net.49166.49164
The after market hex screws are good for a while but the hex head is soft too.
: Go to a well equiped store that sells fasteners. Buy some 4 millimeter thread by 10 millimeter long socket head countersunk screws.
: These will replace the shroud screws that came with the gun. They are harder, and the allen wrench heads will reduce the chance of slipping, and scratching the gun's fantastic (?) finish.
shootingsports-at-ev1.net.49166.49164
Re: IZH 35 - Walther KSP
: What are the differences? is the Walther more reliable? I know the fit and finish is cleaner.
Take a look at www.djprecision.com for some IZH accessories (barrel weight and weight with slide-stop built-in, comp trigger, custom finish, screw sets, etc.) to make it more like a KSP for a lot less. The biggest improvement in the KSP over the IZH is the grips.
The grips from a KSP will fit on an IZH with the KSP-style bottom mag release from DJ Precision. The bottom release also make it possible to have a left-handed IZH.
Jay
jverg-at-att.net.49167.49134
Take a look at www.djprecision.com for some IZH accessories (barrel weight and weight with slide-stop built-in, comp trigger, custom finish, screw sets, etc.) to make it more like a KSP for a lot less. The biggest improvement in the KSP over the IZH is the grips.
The grips from a KSP will fit on an IZH with the KSP-style bottom mag release from DJ Precision. The bottom release also make it possible to have a left-handed IZH.
Jay
jverg-at-att.net.49167.49134
Re: IZH 35 - Walther KSP
: What are the differences? is the Walther more reliable? I know the fit and finish is cleaner.
I can only speak to the Walther, but, after less than 700 rounds, the hammer began to follow the slide forward. This resulted in a couple of doubles and even one "full auto" burst of five rounds. Investigation revealed the trigger bar was not being disengaged from the sear during recoil. Thus, the hammer was not being held cocked when the slide returned to battery. It appeared, and a couple of guys here on TT and on the Bullseye-L forum confirmed, that the slide normally would push the trigger bar out of engagement with the sear as the slide neared the end of its rearward travel. On my gun, the slide did not touch the trigger bar. It was not clear to me what had changed, since the gun had functioned correctly up to this point.
I returned the gun to the dealer from whom it was purchased. Their gunsmith replaced the trigger bar with one that had a small "shoe" welded or brazed to it. The recoiling slide would now push down on this shoe and disengage the trigger bar from the sear. Problem solved!
I have not seen this problem discussed before, but it certainly is a reliability issue.
I also have a concern about the slide hold-open device. On my gun, the slide is locked open by pressing on a flat spring, one end of which is rivetted to the slide and the other end of which is hooked. The hook passes through a hole in the slide and snags the frame, thus preventing the slide from closing. The problem is this engagement is so precarious that a slight unintentional touch on the slide is enough to disengage the hook and allow the slide to slam closed - not so great when one is trying to clear a misfire or a jammed round!
On another note, I don't think the grip on my KSP 200 is a Morini grip. At least, it does not have the CM logo of my other Morini grips. There is a logo, but it is a capital letter F inside a stylized 3-point crown superimposed upon an equilateral triangle. (There is also the Walther "banner" logo embossed on the grip.) I do like the grip, though, Morini or not. I also like the gun, in spite of the two problems I mentioned.
Mike T.
fmtaylor-at-telus.net.49171.49134
I can only speak to the Walther, but, after less than 700 rounds, the hammer began to follow the slide forward. This resulted in a couple of doubles and even one "full auto" burst of five rounds. Investigation revealed the trigger bar was not being disengaged from the sear during recoil. Thus, the hammer was not being held cocked when the slide returned to battery. It appeared, and a couple of guys here on TT and on the Bullseye-L forum confirmed, that the slide normally would push the trigger bar out of engagement with the sear as the slide neared the end of its rearward travel. On my gun, the slide did not touch the trigger bar. It was not clear to me what had changed, since the gun had functioned correctly up to this point.
I returned the gun to the dealer from whom it was purchased. Their gunsmith replaced the trigger bar with one that had a small "shoe" welded or brazed to it. The recoiling slide would now push down on this shoe and disengage the trigger bar from the sear. Problem solved!
I have not seen this problem discussed before, but it certainly is a reliability issue.
I also have a concern about the slide hold-open device. On my gun, the slide is locked open by pressing on a flat spring, one end of which is rivetted to the slide and the other end of which is hooked. The hook passes through a hole in the slide and snags the frame, thus preventing the slide from closing. The problem is this engagement is so precarious that a slight unintentional touch on the slide is enough to disengage the hook and allow the slide to slam closed - not so great when one is trying to clear a misfire or a jammed round!
On another note, I don't think the grip on my KSP 200 is a Morini grip. At least, it does not have the CM logo of my other Morini grips. There is a logo, but it is a capital letter F inside a stylized 3-point crown superimposed upon an equilateral triangle. (There is also the Walther "banner" logo embossed on the grip.) I do like the grip, though, Morini or not. I also like the gun, in spite of the two problems I mentioned.
Mike T.
fmtaylor-at-telus.net.49171.49134
Re: IZH 35 - Walther KSP
I think IZH-35 + decent grips = great competition gun.
Personally, a bolt hold open doesn't matter to me, and I don't really care how pretty a gun is (my Toz-35M is pretty ugly, but was good enough for Team USA shooter I bought it from).
If I hadn't already gotten a Pardini SP for a steal (also a great gun), I'd have a IZH-35.
: What are the differences? is the Walther more reliable? I know the fit and finish is cleaner.
.49172.49134
Personally, a bolt hold open doesn't matter to me, and I don't really care how pretty a gun is (my Toz-35M is pretty ugly, but was good enough for Team USA shooter I bought it from).
If I hadn't already gotten a Pardini SP for a steal (also a great gun), I'd have a IZH-35.
: What are the differences? is the Walther more reliable? I know the fit and finish is cleaner.
.49172.49134
Re: IZH35 Barrel Screws
I purchased some 4mm "cap" screws that have hex heads as well. The only problem is that they are not tapered as the originals are. Solution - I chucked them up in my drill press (after protecting the threads with a straw), fired it up and then used a file to get the angle I wanted. About 15 seconds per screw. These are much better screws than the smaller hex heads as you can use a real allen wrench vs. the 2.5mm size and eliminate the "camming" out of the wrench.
: The after market hex screws are good for a while but the hex head is soft too.
evening-at-evansville.net.49286.49166
: The after market hex screws are good for a while but the hex head is soft too.
evening-at-evansville.net.49286.49166