Sight Raiser Help

[GolfShot]

I currently have an KK500 with an Starik Carbon tube (32cm long). When I have my foresight at the very end (my personal preference) of the Starik Carbon Tube the foresight always ends up being located at the very top of my sight image.

My current setup is the following,

Rear
Walther Factory Action Raiser
8mm Centra Raiser
Centra Spy

Fore-end
8mm Centra Raiser
Centra Score Plus Foresight Tunnel (Includes 8mm of elevation)


Is it a case that because my foresight is located at the end of the Starik Carbon Tube that the rear and foresight raiser need to be different heights? If so, how do you calculator it or is it a case of trial and error?

Thanks

[Th.]

Ask the man himself
https://www.starikshooting.com/ask-starik/

[Tim S]

Golfshot,

Yes, a long extension tube can change the height of the foresight relative to the rearsight. In addition, the diameter of the tube and any foresight mount may be greater/lesser than that of the muzzle. Remember the rearsight MUST always be higher than the foresight so the sightline intersects the trajectory of the bullet.

If your rearsight is maxed-out, or nearly so, swap the 8mm rear block for a taller one, say 11 mm or 12mm, or put an extra 4mm raiser under the rearsight. When you have clicked down to compensate, you should have plenty of UP adjustment left. If you shoot at 100 yards, you need about 2mm adjustment above your 50yd/m zero.

I use adjustable raisers to do much the same thing: 15mm at the front, and 18mm at the back

[GolfShot]

Golfshot,

Yes, a long extension tube can change the relative height of the foresight to rhe rearsight. In addition the diameter if the tube and any foresight mount may be greater/lesser than that of the muzzle. Remember the rearsight MUST always be higher than the foresight so the sightline intersects the trajectory of the bullet.

If your rearsight is maxed-out, or nearly so, swap the 8mm rear block for a taller one, say 11 mm or 12mm, or put a 4mm raiser under the rearsight. When you have clicked down to compensate, you should have plenty of UP adjustment left. If you shoot at 100 yards, you need about 2mm adjustment above your 50yd/m zero.

I use adjustable raisers to do much the same thing: 15mm at the front, and 18mm at the back

Thank you alot for the detailed response. I happen to have an TEC-HRO System 2.0 on hand, I will switch to these raisers and have my rear-sight 4mm higher than the foresight.

I should of mentioned that im using an 18mm tunnel.

Is there anything else I should be aware of besides the hard fact that the rear sight is always higher?

[Tim S]

Golfshot,

Yes, the Tec-Hro raisers are handy for this. I use Centra club, but the principle is the same. The only caveat I can think of is to be sure you'll be comfortable with a higher sightline. If you are straining your neck to aim, swapping to a lower foresight block, say a 4mm or 6mm, would free up elevation adjustment with an 8mm block at the back.

Oh, just be aware that changing brands of raiser may affect your horizontal zero. My Tec-Hro blocks don't fit dovetails quite the same as my Centra blocks.

Walther (and Anschutz, FWB etc) calculate the differential when they design the rifle. It's when the shooter changes something that they run out of clicks; this could be a 22mm foresight, an extension tube, a non-standard rearsight, etc.

[ChickenChowda]

I also run a KK with a long starik tube (38cm). I if I recall correctly, my rear and front risers are the same height, the front might be slightly taller. I shoot 50 feet and outdoors occasionally and haven't had an issue. You might want to try lowering the front rather than raising the rear. If you drastically change the rear sight height, you also will have to change your cheekpiece and everything else positionally to compensate. I found getting the sight height set in the rear so that it lines up with your eye in a natural and comfortable position, then adjusting the front riser height so that you are on target and roughly in the middle of your rear sights click range is a preferable method that leads to a better position in the end. make sure to do this adjustment with paper targets.

[Tim S]

. You might want to try lowering the front rather than raising the rear. If you drastically change the rear sight height, you also will have to change your cheekpiece and everything else positionally to compensate.

The OP isn't changing the height of the rearsight, well not the aperture. He has already zeroed, but wanted more free elevation. A thin spacer under the rearsight will only raise the aperture temporarily; after zeroing it will go back to the same height above the bore as before, as dictated by the height of the foresight.

[Bob Foth]

GolfShot reports "the foresight always ends up being located at the very top of my sight image".
To me, that description matches with having your cheekpiece too high so you are looking above the center of the rear iris/aperture opening.

[ChickenChowda]

You're right then Tim If golf's already on target. I read it and assumed it was a shots off target, lets start from the beginning type issue. But Bob also makes a good point. Now that I think about it, I don't think 6 inches of added sight radius would really change a whole lot for riser adjustment, so maybe there is a positional issue.

[GolfShot]

Thank you for all your responses, I really appreciate it.

Turns out it was user error all along.

What I forgot to mention in my original post was that im using an Centra Duplex Vario and it turns out that has been causing my issues. Looks like an Centra Collimator Spy will fix my issue.