Modena wrote: ↑Fri Jun 21, 2019 1:18 am
The bore guide is not provided with a KK300. This must be quite old stock, as KK300 (other than Blacktec) has not been available for about 2 years. I had a KK300 Anatomic which was very nice and reliable. I did have some issues sometimes with one of the extractors sticking out and bolt wouldn't close, this was caused I believe by grit getting in the bolt extractor (claw) mechanisms - I suggest you completely strip the bolt every 500-1000 rounds and clean it all thoroughly and scrupulously, this includes removing the extractor claw components from the bolt body. Let me know if you need help in how to do this. My KK300 was super accurate too, they make a good barrel. I shot a 105.5 decimal 10-shot with it in the shoulder prone, 105.0 another time, and it did 106.5 on the test bench, all with Eley ammo. Best I could manage with this rifle was 592 (with 2 x 8's!) raw, and a 619.[cant remember] decimal.
The other issue you might run into is with their buttplate adjustment mechanism. If you want to shoot very good scores, you need a lot of shoulder pressure. While the knurled thumbwheel that provides butt-length adjustment stops the centre rod from being pushed into the stock, in prone you will tend to have a fairly high buttplate, and with a lot of shoulder pressure, due to leverage this exerts a lot of force on the top guide rod, which has no resistance. The only thing stopping the buttplate from being pushed in at an angle, is the two clamping screws on the stock, but they are only M4, relatively small and designed to stop the buttplate from falling out, not designed to clamp it tightly (unless you liked stripped threads). To fix this, get some M10 shaft collars and washers to act as spacers, and this will stop it from pushing the rod into the stock. Once set, forget unless you want or need to adjust buttplate length in which case add/remove spacers as required.
And if you look at the air rifle poster of her, you will see spacers on the buttplate carrier.
Enjoy your KK300
Thank you Modena for warning me about the KK300 bolt issue. It happened to me yesterday. Mine was a little different. When I closed my bolt and pulled the trigger, it did not fire. Then I noticed when I pulled the bolt, the back end of the firing pin stuck out as it should but after I loaded ammo and close the bolt, the back end of firing pin disappeared. I had to eject ammo a few times and watched for the firing pin position. In a match it would be a big distraction. When I got home, I disassembled the bolt and clean the whole thing and it seems to work fine now. I have to go to range to shoot and verify.
What do you use to clean the inside of the bolt especially where the back of firing pin sticking out? it is a very tight space? I have no good tool to reach there.
I do not fully understand the buttplate issue and your resolution you mentioned here other than to add support to ensure good shoulder pressure by using some shafts and washers. I got some M10 washers but it only works for the center screw shaft and not the two side ones on buttplates. Can you show me a picture of your KK300?
Really appreciate your help. If you did not mention the bolt issue, I would have thought I got a defective rifle.
If the firing pin drops as you close the bolt, it's not catching the trigger properly. I'll assume you weren't slamming the bolt, or touching the trigger. A dirty trigger can be the cause, although it's often trigger adjustment. Have you lightened the weight or reduced sear engagement* recently? If you have, you might need to give the screw a 1/4 turn back. I might also be an idea to check the screws holding the trigger mechanism to the receiver are tight; if the housing is loose it won't properly hold (or release) the firing pin.
*German manuals often call sear engagement catch overlap.
Tim S wrote: ↑Mon Jul 15, 2019 10:09 am
If the firing pin drops as you close the bolt, it's not catching the trigger properly. I'll assume you weren't slamming the bolt, or touching the trigger. A dirty trigger can be the cause, although it's often trigger adjustment. Have you lightened the weight or reduced sear engagement* recently? If you have, you might need to give the screw a 1/4 turn back. I might also be an idea to check the screws holding the trigger mechanism to the receiver are tight; if the housing is loose it won't properly hold (or release) the firing pin.
*German manuals often call sear engagement catch overlap.
Tim,
My bolt needs to be pushed forward a bit to close when loading ammo. It was like that from day one. A fellow shooter commented on that once. But I was not slamming it. I was not touching the trigger either. It was also intermittent. After I cleaned the bolt last night, it is working fine and has not repeated the problem. Of course I have not been to the range and shoot either.
Earlier I did adjust the trigger:
1. I turned (clockwise) the screw 'b' to shorten first stage.
2. I turned (clockwise) the screw 'e', as my trigger can discharge too easy.
I still do not like the first stage of my trigger because it feels so loose or sloppy. But otherwise it works fine and I am getting used to the light trigger better as well. I have not experience any issues after I did my trigger adjustment 2-3 weeks ago. I had no issue at all since the adjustment.
Now how do I clean my triggering system? I find no information.
Thanks, Tim
Last edited by jhd26 on Mon Jul 15, 2019 12:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Also the firing pin does not 'drop' as I can feel it. I just lost its engagement and stays in the ready to fire position. Or it is getting into 'after firing' position after I close the bolt. Is that what you called 'firing pin drops"?
Bolt closure - it's perfectly normal for the bolt to get stiffer in the last few millimetres, just before you rotate the handle down. This is due to the chamber. 0.22 target rifles have a short and tight chamber. The bullet engages the rifling when chambered. If you eject a live round and inspect the bullet you'll see marks at the front of the driving bands. This engagement is good for accuracy, but means that bullets don't drop into the chamber like most 0.22 rifles or pistols. The bullet only chambers fully as you close the bolt. So, that last bit of travel is stiffer as the bullet jams into the rifling. Some actions have a cam that the bolt handle bears on to give some mechanical advantage as you open and close, but I don't think the Walther does, so it may feel slightly stiffer. The ammo also plays a part. Different makes/brands/batches vary slightly in dimension, making some easier or harder to chamber.
Firing pin - By dropping. I mean the pin rides over the trigger as the bolt is closed, and falls into the fired position. This normally happens when the trigger doesn't hold the pin properly. When you open the bolt, a cam in the handle pulls the firing back against its spring and holds it there. Then as you close the handle the pin slides off the cam. If it doesn't catch on the trigger it drops (just like de-cocking the bolt to ease springs).
If the pin catches on the trigger, but the trigger doesn't release it, that's a different story. Trigger adjustment can be the culprit (too much sear engagement) , although the adjustments you describe don't sound enough. It's daft, but you didn't apply the safety catch by mistake? I have seen a shooter completely baffled when they had unwittingly put the safety on safe.
Trigger cleaning - I flush the trigger with lighter fluid dropped down from the top. The Anschutz technicians use compressed air. As you have a new rifle, I'd check the manual or email Walther.
Last edited by Tim S on Tue Jul 16, 2019 12:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
jhd26 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 15, 2019 5:26 pm
Tim, I never use safety, not this gun at least.
I will clean the trigger. But after bolt cleaning the problem is gone. Can’t explain this.
Very few target shooters use the safety, but I've seen people push the lever while loading.
If the trigger cocks after cleaning the bolt, don't worry about it. But if it does happen again, and occurs frequently, check the trigger is properly attached, and consider adjustment.
For easy chambering, regular barrel cleaning, and lubricating the bolt should suffice.
jhd26 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 15, 2019 7:46 am
What do you use to clean the inside of the bolt especially where the back of firing pin sticking out? it is a very tight space? I have no good tool to reach there.
I do not fully understand the buttplate issue and your resolution you mentioned here other than to add support to ensure good shoulder pressure by using some shafts and washers. I got some M10 washers but it only works for the center screw shaft and not the two side ones on buttplates. Can you show me a picture of your KK300?
Really appreciate your help. If you did not mention the bolt issue, I would have thought I got a defective rifle.
You don't clean inside the back where the pin sticks out, unless you decock it and spray some Ballistol or similar in there and wipe the outside. Ordinarily I spray the whole bolt with Ballistol and wipe the bolt clean, ensuring that some spray goes in the underside where you can see the spring. That is "regular" cleaning after every use, then as I described fully disassemble every 500 shots or so and clean each component. This will cover it. For the love of the sport, please don't shoot your rifle and just stuff it away until next time like I see so many people do. This is a precision instrument, not a bunny gun, and needs to be cared for and kept clean to ensure trouble free and accurate operation.
In addition, underneath the loading tray will accumulate grit and carbon build up, etc. To clean that, you need to take the action out of the stock, and undo the screw underneath that holds the tray in, clean all under there thoroughly every few thousand rounds. Make sure you torque the action screws, don't do it by feel, around 4-5nm is good.
Yes use shaft collars and washers on the TOP shaft, to stop the buttplate pushing further in. That is all I was referring to. I no longer have my KK300 so sorry no pictures.
jhd26 wrote: ↑Mon Jul 15, 2019 7:46 am
What do you use to clean the inside of the bolt especially where the back of firing pin sticking out? it is a very tight space? I have no good tool to reach there.
I do not fully understand the buttplate issue and your resolution you mentioned here other than to add support to ensure good shoulder pressure by using some shafts and washers. I got some M10 washers but it only works for the center screw shaft and not the two side ones on buttplates. Can you show me a picture of your KK300?
Really appreciate your help. If you did not mention the bolt issue, I would have thought I got a defective rifle.
You don't clean inside the back where the pin sticks out, unless you decock it and spray some Ballistol or similar in there and wipe the outside. Ordinarily I spray the whole bolt with Ballistol and wipe the bolt clean, ensuring that some spray goes in the underside where you can see the spring. That is "regular" cleaning after every use, then as I described fully disassemble every 500 shots or so and clean each component. This will cover it. For the love of the sport, please don't shoot your rifle and just stuff it away until next time like I see so many people do. This is a precision instrument, not a bunny gun, and needs to be cared for and kept clean to ensure trouble free and accurate operation.
In addition, underneath the loading tray will accumulate grit and carbon build up, etc. To clean that, you need to take the action out of the stock, and undo the screw underneath that holds the tray in, clean all under there thoroughly every few thousand rounds. Make sure you torque the action screws, don't do it by feel, around 4-5nm is good.
Yes use shaft collars and washers on the TOP shaft, to stop the buttplate pushing further in. That is all I was referring to. I no longer have my KK300 so sorry no pictures.
You are welcome.
Thanks! I clean the rifle after every shooting. I use hoppe 99. Just figured out how to dissemble the bolt and clean the whole thing. I actually love to handle my rifle and clean it. I will need to learn how to clean action. Do you also believe this issue of mine is trigger related?
Modena wrote: ↑Tue Jul 16, 2019 6:48 pm
You don't clean inside the back where the pin sticks out, unless you decock it and spray some Ballistol or similar in there and wipe the outside. Ordinarily I spray the whole bolt with Ballistol and wipe the bolt clean, ensuring that some spray goes in the underside where you can see the spring. That is "regular" cleaning after every use, then as I described fully disassemble every 500 shots or so and clean each component. This will cover it. For the love of the sport, please don't shoot your rifle and just stuff it away until next time like I see so many people do. This is a precision instrument, not a bunny gun, and needs to be cared for and kept clean to ensure trouble free and accurate operation.
In addition, underneath the loading tray will accumulate grit and carbon build up, etc. To clean that, you need to take the action out of the stock, and undo the screw underneath that holds the tray in, clean all under there thoroughly every few thousand rounds. Make sure you torque the action screws, don't do it by feel, around 4-5nm is good.
Yes use shaft collars and washers on the TOP shaft, to stop the buttplate pushing further in. That is all I was referring to. I no longer have my KK300 so sorry no pictures.
You are welcome.
Is it okay to unscrew the action off the stock? I thought action and barrel are “bedded” onto the stock. Whatever that means. How is the barrel connected to the action? With little knowledge of Walther rifle structure, I am hesitating to do this cleaning. Let me attach some photos. Are these the screws to take out? They are now very tight to unscrew. In other words what are the “action screws”?Thanks for any guidance. Wanted to attach some photos and system complaints files too large.
The barrel is screwed (and possibly pinned/glued) in to the action - do not attempt to take this apart!
Under the stock you will find 4 (from memory) screws, or maybe its 6, undo those and the action and barrel will lift out of the stock, you will be surprised just how light the anatomic stock is. There is no separate bedding in the KK300, the "floor" of the stock is machined smooth wood and provides the mating surface for the bottom surface of the action. When lifting the action from the stock, be careful, as you will have one very heavy piece ( the action/barrel) and one very light piece (the stock) and it's easy to slip and drop something. Also just be very careful that your trigger blade is not going to hit the stock on the way out - depending on where you have the trigger blade sitting you might need to move it. In my case it actually stopped me getting the action out, and I had to swing the blade to the middle more.
The tiny screw which is up inside the trigger tube blade is the smallest screw on the rifle (2mm from memory), so be careful to ensure your allen wrench is fully seated properly way down in there before trying to move that screw or it can strip the head easily, and that will not fun to fix.
If you have only done 1000-2000 rounds then I wouldn't bother taking the action out yet, but by the time you get to 5,000 it will be ready for a clean under the tray especially.
Also do not attempt to disassemble the trigger assembly - note I mean the entire trigger assembly, not the trigger blade. The assembly is pinned together (you will see this when you take the action from the stock) and disassembly of this should not be required, and is certainly not a job for at home.
Yes you can change the blade, I took the blade off and put on a tec-hro point, but any blade that will fit on the horizontal mount pin will work so long as it is the correct fit.
KK300 barrels are glued into the receiver, and are not meant to be removed casually. A gunsmith can remove one with heat, and possibly a press/mandrel + hammer.
Removing the stock isn't hard, as Modena notes. It's not something you would do weekly or monthly (unless the rifle gets wet). Actually removing a stock that is epoxy bedded is no harder than removing an unbedded stock. The bedding epoxy just provides a closer fit, and may strengthen the stock. It doesn't glue the receiver to the stock; some BR shooters glue in actions, but that's not normal for Smallbore.
I have been working on installing my SWFA 3-15X42 scope on my KK300. i followed all the rules: level the rifle, scope and using a plumb line. Careful about when and how to turn screws. No matter how many times and how hard I tried, scope picture is always slightly crooked. When I hold the scope in my hand it is not crooked. I use a pair of Hawke 11/30 mm scope rings. I gave up. No idea why.
look underneath the stock. You will see black cap screws, there are either 4 or 6 of them. Send a pic of the underside of the stock and I will show you.
