Morini CM22M detail strip instructions?

[javaduke]

Folks, I'm wondering if anyone has any instructions and/or first-hand experience on CM22M detail strip. I feel like it's time to give my gun a deep clean and some tuning, but the trigger group disassembly looks a little bit intimidating for me. I don't have any problems disassembling my 1911s and Ruger Mark IIis, heck, I even disassembled TOZ-35 once (although I won't do it again), but CM22M is a different animal.
My gun is a standard model, not RF, if it makes any difference.

[Spencer]

this might help http://www.australiancynic.com/MoriniCM22RF.pdf, but you should NOT need to disassemble the trigger - if you do disassemble it, good luck.

[javaduke]

Yes, I saw that PDF, but it's not enough, I'd like to see something more detailed.
I actually do want to disassemble the trigger, it is kinda dirty and I can't reach deep enough with cotton swabs to get the dirt out. Plus it looks like the sear and the hammer could use just a tiny bit of polishing, there's some wear on the mating surfaces, but enough to make the second stage feel a bit gritty (at least comparing to my other CM22 which I rarely use). Nothing that a couple of passes with a fine ceramic stone can't fix.

[jbshooter]

Spray out the trigger housing with a trichloroethylene compound like CRC Lectraclean and blow dry with compressed air.

[deadeyedick]

If you have a need for "extreme clean" then there is only one way and that is with an ultrasonic cleaner.
Put some degreaser mix or aviation wax and oil remover into an ultrasonic cleaner and let it do its thing for 10 minutes or so. Remove, blow dry and re lube.
Nothing on this planet will achieve a better result.

p.s. small US units can be purchased for around $20.

[Spencer]

what deadeyedick wrote stands good

[Gwhite]

The trick with ultrasonic cleaning is: how to re-lubricate things? If you dunk it in lube afterward, you now have everything coated with oil, which will attract more dirt. If you can get at all the points that need oil/grease, and apply it sparingly, that's fine. If possible, I still prefer to take stuff apart, at least far enough to make sure they get lubricated properly afterward.

There is also the possibility of washing dirt into places it would come out of easily. As an example, would you put a Steyr air pistol's trigger assembly in an ultrasonic cleaner? How are you going to make sure A) you didn't flush dirt into one of the sealing areas or the regulator, and B) you didn't strip all the lube out of the ball bearings?

[David M]

Disassembly is not all that difficult.
You just need a good set of allen keys, pin punches and a pin block.
After releasing the lock screws and removing all the springs, the trigger
and transfer bar , hammer assembly and the sear bar come out as three
separate groups.
The hard part after clean and stoning is assembly, lining up the pins
without damage using some form of guide.
Refit the springs and seats, then doing a full reset of the trigger travel and weight.

If you don't know what you are doing DON"T TOUCH.

[Gwhite]

Disassembly is not all that difficult.
You just need a good set of allen keys, pin punches and a pin block.
After releasing the lock screws and removing all the springs, the trigger
and transfer bar , hammer assembly and the sear bar come out as three
separate groups.
The hard part after clean and stoning is assembly, lining up the pins
without damage using some form of guide.
Refit the springs and seats, then doing a full reset of the trigger travel and weight.

If you don't know what you are doing DON"T TOUCH.

One trick that can make re-assembling any device with pins much easier is to use "dummy" pins. These are slightly undersized so you can insert them by hand. You can cut them from the shanks of drill bits. They allow you to get everything lined up in advance, and then you drive the dummy pin out with the real pin. It's especially helpful when you have several parts that need to be lined up and held in alignment while you insert them into the frame before driving in the final pin. In that case, you make a short pin that can hold the parts together while you slide them in place. You can then hold them in the frame with a longer dummy pin until you are ready to drive in the final pin.

[SamEEE]

I suggest purchasing a GSP. :D

but the trigger group disassembly looks a little bit intimidating for me.

Leave it alone I reckon. Clean it as best as you can without taking it to bits. You will be able to get a fair bit out with toothpicks and toothbrush.

[Gwhite]

I suggest purchasing a GSP. :D

but the trigger group disassembly looks a little bit intimidating for me.

Leave it alone I reckon. Clean it as best as you can without taking it to bits. You will be able to get a fair bit out with toothpicks and toothbrush.

A lot of the debris that builds up is unburned powder flakes. These can largely be removed with a blast of compressed air. A can of "duster" sold for electronics allows you to get into tight spots.