I need to go through this process on my CM84. I've looked at all of the articles I could find in the archives, and I found an exploded diagram here:
http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/cm84eexb.jpg
My game plan is to remove the entire rear blade assembly, starting with center Torx screw. At that point, I have two options:
1) Unscrew the sight blades out the left side and proceed to try and rearrange them for a wider notch
2) Start by first removing the detent screws, springs & balls first, so they don't get launched once I remove the sight blade assembly. Then proceed with step #1.
Depending on how clever the designer was, the balls may be captive, in which case I don't need to worry. That would require some fairly fussy machining. However, if the designer was that meticulous, I wouldn't need to go through this process in the first place. From an assembly/manufacturing stand point, there's no need to bother, so I'm guessing the balls will go walkabout if I don't extract them first.
Does anyone who's been through this process remember if I need to remove the balls first?
Thanks!
Rebuilding Morini Rear Sight for Wider Notch?
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You are clearly unfamiliar with the Morini rear sight. If your first reaction to any problem is to take a file to your pistols, I feel sorry for them.
The Morini rear sight is adjustable for width, but sometimes you can run out of windage range if you set the width too large. This can be fixed by "re-centering" the sight blades, but you have to take it apart to do this.
The Morini rear sight is adjustable for width, but sometimes you can run out of windage range if you set the width too large. This can be fixed by "re-centering" the sight blades, but you have to take it apart to do this.
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David Levene
- Posts: 5617
- Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 12:49 pm
- Location: Ruislip, UK
Please find below some instructions/thoughts on the problem posted by Steve Swartz 26/02/2006.
When I wanted a wider notch on my 162EI I ran out of windage, so based my adjustments on Steve' instructions. They worked for me.
O.K., I had to go through soem fine tuning on my new 162E. I have a 6mm front blade (barn door) and use about 1/3 the front width on either side (open barn doors) on a sub six hold (front sight on bottom edge of barn doors).
Bad eyes.
Anyhow, I first noticed that it appeared as though I could have either wide notch, or centered notch, but not both. I Feel Your Pain.
If you aren't comfortable chasing little springy bits around your house, stop now and send to Scott.
Assuming you are prepared to completely disassemble your rear sight assembly, do so now. When you get to the point where the rear notch sub assembly is "free," you will note that (oh by the way, put that spring that just went flying across the room in a Safe Place. And yeah, hope you got a real good look at exactly how it is supposed to go back in cause it's real easy to do it wrong) the two halves of the blade can be rotated along the two-threaded rod piece they are attached to. The rod is counter threaded (IIRC) so screwing them in the same direction actually moves them in tandem along the rod left-right; screwing them in opposite directions makes them either closer together or farther apart.
Hope you counted the number of clicks used when disassembling the rear sight assembly . . . this comes in real handy later so you can tell whether or not you actually amde things better before reassembling the whole danged thing to find out you actually just made it worse! As you unscrew the rear blade subassembly using the L/R adjustment screw you are creeping the two blade halves along the double-threaded rod at the same time. This gets clearer here in a paragraph or two.
Once the rear blade subassembly is free, take a moment and admire the elegance of this engineering solution. No, seriously! Cussing out the design engineers right now isn't helping. It is a quite clever piece at that.
O.K., what you are trying to do is get the blades wide apart, but way over on the left side of the rod. When you screw the rod-blades subassembly back in, you want there to be enough threads left to get the RH blade over to the RH side without running out of thread.
This is really hard to explain without your actually seeing it.
You will have to flop the left blade >>out<< (notch wider!) a few revolutions (how many is a few? wish I knew. I didn't follow the advice I'm giving you right now; I had to Find Out The Hard Way). ANyhow, I think two or three revolutions should do it . . . oops, the left blade just popped off the rod! O.K., one less than that then. Stiff upper lip now; back at it!
Anyhow, be prepared to fiddle with this several times installing/tweaking/re-installing before you get it just right.
When I wanted a wider notch on my 162EI I ran out of windage, so based my adjustments on Steve' instructions. They worked for me.
O.K., I had to go through soem fine tuning on my new 162E. I have a 6mm front blade (barn door) and use about 1/3 the front width on either side (open barn doors) on a sub six hold (front sight on bottom edge of barn doors).
Bad eyes.
Anyhow, I first noticed that it appeared as though I could have either wide notch, or centered notch, but not both. I Feel Your Pain.
If you aren't comfortable chasing little springy bits around your house, stop now and send to Scott.
Assuming you are prepared to completely disassemble your rear sight assembly, do so now. When you get to the point where the rear notch sub assembly is "free," you will note that (oh by the way, put that spring that just went flying across the room in a Safe Place. And yeah, hope you got a real good look at exactly how it is supposed to go back in cause it's real easy to do it wrong) the two halves of the blade can be rotated along the two-threaded rod piece they are attached to. The rod is counter threaded (IIRC) so screwing them in the same direction actually moves them in tandem along the rod left-right; screwing them in opposite directions makes them either closer together or farther apart.
Hope you counted the number of clicks used when disassembling the rear sight assembly . . . this comes in real handy later so you can tell whether or not you actually amde things better before reassembling the whole danged thing to find out you actually just made it worse! As you unscrew the rear blade subassembly using the L/R adjustment screw you are creeping the two blade halves along the double-threaded rod at the same time. This gets clearer here in a paragraph or two.
Once the rear blade subassembly is free, take a moment and admire the elegance of this engineering solution. No, seriously! Cussing out the design engineers right now isn't helping. It is a quite clever piece at that.
O.K., what you are trying to do is get the blades wide apart, but way over on the left side of the rod. When you screw the rod-blades subassembly back in, you want there to be enough threads left to get the RH blade over to the RH side without running out of thread.
This is really hard to explain without your actually seeing it.
You will have to flop the left blade >>out<< (notch wider!) a few revolutions (how many is a few? wish I knew. I didn't follow the advice I'm giving you right now; I had to Find Out The Hard Way). ANyhow, I think two or three revolutions should do it . . . oops, the left blade just popped off the rod! O.K., one less than that then. Stiff upper lip now; back at it!
Anyhow, be prepared to fiddle with this several times installing/tweaking/re-installing before you get it just right.
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Brian Girling
- Posts: 108
- Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2014 8:52 am
- Location: Staffordshire, United Kingdom
Catching springy jumpy thingys
Catching springy jumpy thingys
My solution is to strip things down inside a clear plastic bag.
If you still lose - it it has gone up your sleeve!
My solution is to strip things down inside a clear plastic bag.
If you still lose - it it has gone up your sleeve!